Faster when engine is cold?

[Skandocious]

Ok this makes sense, wish it was cold all the time ,,lol.

Hahaha I was thinking the same thing! But from the sounds of it, we'd get pretty crappy gas mileage.

 

[ACarbone624]

Could we install a switch to make the computer change. That would be handy at times!

 

[O'Rattlecan]

sorry, got my loops tangled, eco.

Ryan

 

[Skandocious]

Could we install a switch to make the computer change. That would be handy at times!

Whoa no kidding! A switch to put the computer in open loop?! Fun!! LOL

 

[TheRoadVirus]

That's what a Tweecer is for.

 

[Skandocious]

What's a Tweecer?

 

[TheRoadVirus]

I'm getting one when I do my MAF swap (with a mustang computer).
http://www.tweecer.com/

More specific to what I want (TweecerRT)
http://www.tweecer.com/tweecer_rt.htm

 

[Skandocious]

Whoa, those are pretty neat.

 

[TheRoadVirus]

Oh for sure. I can't wait to get my hands on one. One of the main reasons I got a laptop instead of a desktop, real time in truck tuning capabilities. Weeeeeeeeeee.

 

[conanski]

Oh for sure. I can't wait to get my hands on one. One of the main reasons I got a laptop instead of a desktop, real time in truck tuning capabilities. Weeeeeeeeeee.

No kidding. I wish it would stop snowing here already so I could get mine fully installed. I ran into a bit of an obstacle... the computer with the Tweecer module attached won't fit in the factory ECU space on these trucks.. there's a little recess in the kick panel area. So I had to resort to modifying the dish the computer goes in and the pocket in the fender the dish goes in.. lots of grinding and welding... what else is new. Yes.. I'll have lots of pictures...

With regard to forcing the computer into open loop, that is one tuning stratedgy some people use. The factory method uses a scheme where the results the computer gets in closed loop is applied to open loop operation. If you were to force it open loop all the time then you have to tell the computer everything because it will have nothing to learn from, so it's a bit more involved than just hitting a switch.

 

[TheRoadVirus]

I'll be anxiously awaiting those pics. So you got the RT, right?

 

[eco]

No kidding. I wish it would stop snowing here already so I could get mine fully installed. I ran into a bit of an obstacle... the computer with the Tweecer module attached won't fit in the factory ECU space on these trucks..

With regard to forcing the computer into open loop, that is one tuning stratedgy some people use. The factory method uses a scheme where the results the computer gets in closed loop is applied to open loop operation. If you were to force it open loop all the time then you have to tell the computer everything because it will have nothing to learn from, so it's a bit more involved than just hitting a switch.

Does the tweecer module install permanently or is it a only used when making changes?

Also, arn't there better ways to get to a 13:1 AF ratio than staying out of closed loop? Such as slightly increasing fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator or using an IST air adjuster etc.? These methods would require tuning to keep the O2 sensor from fighting the set up, but if you are getting one of those anyways...

 

[conanski]

Does the tweecer module install permanently or is it a only used when making changes?

There is no way to modify the onboard memory inside the EEC4, so all the modules and tuners for this computer utilise a plug-in device that must be permanently installed on the service port. This device has re-writeable memory that overrides the EEC's on-board memory.

Also, arn't there better ways to get to a 13:1 AF ratio than staying out of closed loop? Such as slightly increasing fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator or using an IST air adjuster etc.? These methods would require tuning to keep the O2 sensor from fighting the set up, but if you are getting one of those anyways...

If you have a tuner then there are various ways to achieve the A/F ratio you want without any other devices. Without one your choices are limited, the best approach would be to use a device like the air adjuster, or maybe something similar to alter the MAP sensor output on an SD vehicle.

 

[conanski]

So you got the RT, right?

Yes, from everything I read there's no point to getting the base version.. you're better off with a Moates chip. The data logging function of the RT is what you need to tune a motor that is beyond the stock 5.0 calibrations.. as mine will certainly be later this year when I get heads, intake and bigger injectors installed.

 

[eco]

If you have a tuner then there are various ways to achieve the A/F ratio you want without any other devices. Without one your choices are limited, the best approach would be to use a device like the air adjuster, or maybe something similar to alter the MAP sensor output on an SD vehicle.

Lets say you do use an air adjuster (or any other method to richen the mixture) to get down to ~13:1, isn't the O2 going to do what it can to get back up to 14.7:1?? I am thinking that in order for something like this to work right you would have to get the O2 to oscillate around a ~13:1 ratio, which I am guessing would mean some kind of reprogram of the computer.

 

[conanski]

I am thinking that in order for something like this to work right you would have to get the O2 to oscillate around a ~13:1 ratio..

Yeah.. that sounds like a better solution. Without a tuner you have no control over when the computer goes closed loop, and if you alter any sensor input besides the O2 the computer may interpret this a fault and throw a code. It's really hard to say just how much influence you can have by faking out a sensor, because the computer uses several different formulas simultaneously to calculate fuel and ignition commands and averages the results. I'm just begining to learn how this is all done, and all I can say is it's not exactly straight forward, there's a lot going on.

 

[eco]

It's really hard to say just how much influence you can have by faking out a sensor, because the computer uses several different formulas simultaneously to calculate fuel and ignition commands and averages the results. I'm just begining to learn how this is all done, and all I can say is it's not exactly straight forward, there's a lot going on.

I think with the air adjuster, you can go from a lean mixture (ie. 18:1 or whatever) back to 14.7:1 or from a rich mixture (ie. 12:1 or whatever) back to 14.7:1 but the ability to get everything to run right and be at 13.5:1 is what I would like to know more about.

 

[conanski]

the ability to get everything to run right and be at 13.5:1 is what I would like to know more about.

That's what a tuner is all about, you need to have full control to get those results for your particular engine combo.