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Factory 4x4 w/390

First thing I need to do is fix the exhaust manifold leak.
The P/O even included a new set of gaskets.
That's real sweat of 'im except FE's don't use exhaust manifold gaskets. LOL :)

If the leak is at the pipe connection those use asbestos or iron donuts.
Do yourself a favor and get some iron ones if that's where the leak's at
and if you need new one/s. I personally never seen an iron one go bad.

And get the engine hot before loosening the exhaust manifold bolts. :)

What about the serial number? :)
Has it got an M, Y or H in it?
My F150's got F15Y...

F150tag.jpg


Butthead in AZ
 
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What will he do if the engine is actually a 360 ?
 
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This truck was originally a 360 truck. It has the Y in the VIN.

Used a dowel and measured the stroke today. First I tried the method using #1 and #4 cylinders, and then just compared TDC and BDC readings from 1 cylinder.

This method of checking stroke is inaccurate, but will get you in the ball park.

My stroke measurement varied slightly, but always got between 3.8"-ish to right around 4". This engine feels very stout for what it is.

I have broken the bolts loose on most of the exhaust manifold bolts. I am going to check the manifolds for true and have the flange machined if necessary. Going to use the graphite gaskets included and a thin coat of ultra copper on both sides of the gaskets with new bolts.
 
I'll take my chances.
Cool. :)
Gambler huh? ;)

{I shoulda done knowed that already with you buying a truck sight unseen and all! :}

What about heat transfer? ;)
Does the graphite gasket transfer the heat real good?
Ford didn't use gaskets on FE/FT engines.
Does that last statement make any difference to you? :)

Alvin in AZ
 
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Manifolds are off! I broke 3 bolts, all on the drivers side... They are all bolts that go into the "ear" and are accessible from both sides... I'm not to worried.

The heat riser valve was taken out, and the shaft bores were welded up. A chunk has broken off of the manifold and left a gaping hole.

Moving on to a set of long tubes if I can find something that will fit a highboy okay.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Last FE I had did the same, drilled all the way through and put a nut on the other side...
 
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Very nice quality headers. Thick flanges, heavy construction, nice fasteners and hardware; they went on pretty easily, much easier than I anticipated. I needed to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine a couple of inches on the passenger side to install header, but it really wasn't all that bad. Starter clearance is a bit of a concern, so I'll need to create some sort of heat shield or do something with it yet.

The throttle response is incredible with all the extra flow. I have to finish up a couple of other things and then she should be ready for a road test.

smilieFordlogo

310212_2593167665977_1158228453_3210094_1525937500_n.jpg
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
looking good....dont know if you have noticed..the cover plate is missing at the cab mount access..you may want to address it this at this time..dont want no water or dirt in there...cut out a piece of sheet metal and bolt er on there & check passenger side for the same....very nice truck..Good luck with her!!
 
looking good....dont know if you have noticed..the cover plate is missing
at the cab mount access..you may want to address it this at this time..
dont want no water or dirt in there...cut out a piece of sheet metal and
bolt er on there & check passenger side for the same....very nice truck..
Good luck with her!!
x2 :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/FarmTruckmount.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100cabmount.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100rust3.jpg
Louisiana truck...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100rust2.jpg

Alvin in AZ
 
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looking good....dont know if you have noticed..the cover plate is missing at the cab mount access..you may want to address it this at this time..dont want no water or dirt in there...cut out a piece of sheet metal and bolt er on there & check passenger side for the same....very nice truck..Good luck with her!!

Thanks. I removed the access cover to remove a mouse nest that got into it. I left it off so that I could wash it out at the car wash when I get this thing on 4 wheels again.
 

BKW

Ford Parts Guru
1974/76: M = 390 FE 4 barrel.

1968/76: Y = 360 FE 2 barrel.

1968/76: H = 390 FE 2 barrel / H = 1977/79 = 351M

G = Automatic Transmission. Thru 1978, FoMoCo used the G code for all A/T's. One had to know which A/T came with what engine.

1966 and later: A = NP435 / 1965 = N

F = Borg Warner T-18.

E = Borg Warner T-19 / First installed in 1979 F350's.

1966/86: C= column = 3 on the tree / A = 1965

I966/74: A = 240 I-6

B = 300 I-6

352 FE 2 barrel = D = 1965 / Y = 1966/67.

352 FE 4 barrel No such thing as a 352 4V in an F100/350.

As original, no such thing as a 360 4V.
 
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As original, no such thing as a 360 4V.
Cool thanks for the additions. :)

I found a couple of those later but didn't bother updating. :/
Like...
A = "Aaaa... I'll pass on it ;)" = 240-i6
and...
H = "holy crap, if it ain't an FE forget it!" = 351m after '76

What about the 400's letter? LOL :)

These were the ones I was most concerned with tho... thanks. :)
352 FE 2 barrel = D = "duh" = 1965 / Y = yawn = 1966/67.
And...
352 FE 4 barrel No such thing as a 352 4V in an F100/350.

My list came from back when I was looking for a Bump and so
wanted to know right-on-the-spot what I was looking at. ;)
{or was supposed-to-be looking at}

Alvin in AZ
 
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BKW

Ford Parts Guru
1965/74 F100/350: The 240 I-6 was standard equipment. Every other engine was optional...except Camper Specials, 4WD's.

Camper Specials: The 300 I-6 was standard equipment.

1975/96 F100/350: The 300 I-6 was standard equipment.

4WD's were not available with 390's. 460 4WD's not offered until 1983, ditto a M/T.
 
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The letter code for the 400 is S
 

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