F-100 1974 Custom Restore

[16Straight6]

Hi, everyone! I am very new to this forum and automotive in general. I recently received a Ford F-100 from my grandfather that is in need of a fair amount of work from what I can tell, and quite frankly I have no idea where to start. Until yesterday it had not moved in 16 years. As far as I know there is no longer a working air filter or carburetor. I have a limited budged, but I do have access to any tools necessary because my father works for a large construction company and I know several automotive guys who would loan meme equipment to complete the job. The biggest problem will be finding parts for the truck. I would love to have it almost entirely original, except for a newer radio that has a auxiliary plug and a CD player, a 12 Volt outlet, and a air conditioner. The truck has a space for an AC attachment according to my grandfather, but I don't know where or how it could be attached. Right now my biggest concern is finding out if it is even worth fixing.
Also, the seats have a cover over them, and the original fabric is completely gone. I peeled back the cover in one of the pictures trying to show the seat. My grandfather said the engine was replaced at about 195,000 miles and the truck only has 207,00 on it no, so I guess the engine would still be considered new in terms of mileage.http://f10074.blogspot.com/
The above link is the only way I could think to post all the pictures I had of the truck. Most of the books and other forums I have seen were not very straightforward or easy to follow. If anyone could just tell me where to start and give me some advice I would really appreciate it.

 

[LEB Ben]

You're in luck...these are some of the easiest trucks of all time to work on. The truck pictured has what I like to call, Character...haha. My main objective is always to get it mechanically sound...doesn't matter how pretty it is, if it can't move. With what looks to be either a 240 or 300, and a 4 speed...that's a bomb proof way to start. I'd honestly start lubing up and spraying down anything and everything that moves and see if you can still get the engine to rotate by hand the trans to shift. If so, new fluids, clean out any old gas...and then go to town on brakes, seals and gaskets. Realistically, if all goes well, you could have that thing running and driving for $500.

 

[NEWFIE F-150]

You're in luck...these are some of the easiest trucks of all time to work on. The truck pictured has what I like to call, Character...haha. My main objective is always to get it mechanically sound...doesn't matter how pretty it is, if it can't move. With what looks to be either a 240 or 300, and a 4 speed...that's a bomb proof way to start. I'd honestly start lubing up and spraying down anything and everything that moves and see if you can still get the engine to rotate by hand the trans to shift. If so, new fluids, clean out any old gas...and then go to town on brakes, seals and gaskets. Realistically, if all goes well, you could have that thing running and driving for $500.

X2.

very worth it. the cosmetic restoration will be some extra money, but nothing like a good running, good looking old truck you've put work into

 

[Beach66Bum]

Welcome to FTF
X2 to what Ben said, and that's a cool shifter (looks to be B&M)

 

[Fellro]

The air cleaner is on the seat... The A/C would have to be an add on, as it is not a factory install on that truck. That would take a bit more to add, so I would say a lower priority. First and foremost, get it to run, then worry about that kind of thing.

I have a truck here that sat for 20 years and I hooked up a battery to it, dumped some gas in the carb and it fired off... I filled the carb through the vent and it would stay running for long enough to run the carb out.

That shifter looks to be an old Sparkomatic... Yes, they used to make shifters. They were the cheap knock offs, just like the radios.

 

[16Straight6]

Good news: The engine still turns by hand and the transmission functions, but not through the shift. There is an extra attachment for the steering wheel that works the transmission. I guess I'll eventually have to remove the other stick. Also the transmission rods have to be re installed according to my grandfather. I found them under the seat. The engine needs a carburetor and I'm not sure what will work. It's a 300 and it is a custom engine. My grandpa said it was originally a 240, but I'm not sure. I really need a carb that won't cost me an amazingly expensive amount of money. I found some for $50 but the shipping takes a few months, and I'm not sure what I would need. Is there any way I can find out what kind of carburetor would work with my engine type? I still need to check the brakes, but I don't know if I could do that alone.

 

[LEB Ben]

Well that's good news. As far as carbs are concerned...I'd just buy a remanufactured or refurbished motorcraft 2150 (or 2100...can't remember which went on the 6's).

 

[Fellro]

I am pretty sure the 240 and 300 do not share bell housings, or much of anything for that matter.

If the column is trying to move, then the rods must still be hooked up somehow to move it. Just disconnect it and make use of the floor shifter, unless you really want the 3 on the tree back in action.

Carbs aren't too hard to find, and don't necessarily have to be exact. Find one from a 300 in the 70's and it should work. They were typically one barrel carbs.

Took a moment and looked it up, good ol' Carter YF and YFA carbs...
Carburetor Type: Model YF & YFA; Carter 1 Bbl. Carbs
Carburetor Kit CARTER equipped

 

[Big Jim F150]

Welcome to FTF, and best of luck with your build , take your time and do not get discouraged with it you'll have your days where you didn't get much done, and then you'll get days where you'll get a lot of stuff done, and remember junkyards , eBay, and the LMC truck catalog and even the local Ford dealer and even the Chevy dealer dealer can be helpful too. On my 78 F150 Ranger Lariat I had used 2000 up to current year Super Duty tailgate bumpers for my lower tailgate bumpers, 2007 Chevy Colorado tailgate bumpers for my upper tailgate bumpers, and I have also used Jeep under dash courtesy lamps under my dash, and Jeep glovebox door bumpers to replace my worn and missing glovebox bumpers. Hopefully you will find this helpful to you, remember to work in small stages and take lots of pictures of what you take apart, so you remember how it goes back together, cellphones with cameras are great for that.

 

[Fellro]

double post that I hadn't realized was one, of course...