EGR Question...

[Blue Goose]

My 2005 6.0L now has 35,000 miles and shows no signs of any EGR issues.
Back in my gasser days, it was common practice to periodically clean or replace the PCV. (I know the PCV and the EGR valves are unrelated in their duties)

Is this an item I should take preemptive measures and service (clean) or replace?

 

[blacksnapon]

The way I try to explain the egr operation is, imagine an underwater cave, current will bring in debris, if the cave only has one entrance, debris will collect until it is full, open the other end of the cave, debris wont collect when there is a flow. Your egr system has been operating properly thus far. If you want to do preventative maintenance, use carb cleaner in a bucket, put the valve in only deep enough to soak the valve parts (dont allow the electronics to get wet). You can manually move the valve to get to the valve mating surfaces for cleaning.

 

[Kep4]

So if the EGR strategy is left stock, towing heavy up grades could tend to 'blow it out? Seems like the tuner strategy to keep it closed would then require it to be cleaned, would that be correct?

 

[6L PWR]

Just do things the easy way like I did. Take out the uppipe, cap off the big hole, remove the EGR cooler, reroute the coolant line and voila. No issues.

 

[Kep4]

Ya know, it's getting most tempting to do just that!

It burped coolant again towing over the Grapevine Grade this past weekend. It also burped coolant when returning without the trailer (going back up in two weeks so we left it on the property). Not alot of coolant, but it still did it and in fact burped more when unloaded though the ambient temp was 20 degrees higher.

I seriously doubt it's a headgasket issue since I only see coolant around the cap and degas bottle.

 

[blacksnapon]

So if the EGR strategy is left stock, towing heavy up grades could tend to 'blow it out? Seems like the tuner strategy to keep it closed would then require it to be cleaned, would that be correct?

In my own opinion, there is nothing wrong with leaving the egr operational. Problems arise with this system when other things as well go wrong (vgt sticks, causing overboost and excessive heat in the cooler). Whether or not you have a tuner, the pressure in the system can still open the valve somewhat (albeit not at the right time). Changing the egr strategy doesn't stop with the egr valve. Egr will somewhat reduce egts as well (the intake mixture is less volatile, thus not as hot as an explosion), again, only if it is done at the right time. Keeping your vehicle well maintained, and staying aware of how everything is functioning, by far is better than modifying any of the existing strategies.

 

[6L PWR]

Egr will somewhat reduce egts as well (the intake mixture is less volatile, thus not as hot as an explosion)

So does Water/Meth and NOS!!

again, only if it is done at the right time.

Like around the 60' marks and DON'T let it rev over 4K!! Otherwise it'll cost you $275 towing 90 miles + $300 labor to remove and reinstall LPOP gears + $20 for LPOP gears and new o-ring + alot of crap from your buddy giving you a ride home in his DODGE!!

 

[Kep4]

6L, you are one sick individual... in a very good way of course, but still sick. I like that.

 

[6L PWR]

6L, you are one sick individual... in a very good way of course, but still sick. I like that.

Yep, been diagnosed with Powerstroke Mod Syndrome.

 

[Gunner]

Like around the 60' marks and DON'T let it rev over 4K!!

You wind your 6.0 to 4K? I start getting REAL jittery when mine goes over 3. And THAT happens VERY rarely, and only by accident, when I'm towing. And you can bet your little blue booties that it doesn't stay there very long, thats for DAMN sure.

Gunner

 

[Blue Goose]

You wind your 6.0 to 4K? I start getting REAL jittery when mine goes over 3. And THAT happens VERY rarely, and only by accident, when I'm towing. And you can bet your little blue booties that it doesn't stay there very long, thats for DAMN sure.

Gunner

Amen brother on that .....

 

[6L PWR]

You wind your 6.0 to 4K? I start getting REAL jittery when mine goes over 3. And THAT happens VERY rarely, and only by accident, when I'm towing. And you can bet your little blue booties that it doesn't stay there very long, thats for DAMN sure.

Gunner

She usually shifts between 3800 and 4150RPM. Hadn't had any issues. The night at the strip, she shifted at 4600RPM. That's when the oil pump gave out. Apparently, the NOS and Water/Meth combined make her rev faster than she could keep up with.

 

[Beachbumcook]

Question to throw out to everyone.....

Does the quality of the coolant have an effect on the "burping" of the coolant from the degas bottle?

Meaning... does the EGR cooler and other cooling parts degrade or "boil" the coolant prematurely? Does flushing and using new coolant at a 50/50 ratio offer better protection?

For example, I flush my system with 19 gallons of distilled water and after it f;ows clear after the 5th time of flushing it... I then add the proper amount of Ford Premium Gold coolant. I do so every 50,000 miles as I do not believe in the 100,000 miles interval Ford states when using distilled water (50,000 miles if using tap water).

I also use a dieselsite.com coolant filter... but I wonder if the quality of the coolant or concentration is maybe off, low or bad and allows for the "boiling" or "steaming" of the coolant as it travels through the EGR cooler????

Any ideas guys... and experience to dismiss my idea... or could my "thought" be onto something?

Thanks,

 

[blacksnapon]

the coolant quality can be monitored with the hydrometer or refractometer as well. Even if catastrophic failure of the egr cooler or massive overheating, you still should get an accurate reading using either of those methods. As far as your flushing the coolant at an early interval, I never have seen one go bad because of too much maintenance.

 

[Beachbumcook]

the coolant quality can be monitored with the hydrometer or refractometer as well. Even if catastrophic failure of the egr cooler or massive overheating, you still should get an accurate reading using either of those methods. As far as your flushing the coolant at an early interval, I never have seen one go bad because of too much maintenance.

What I was thinking was that the coolant "burps" or expells from the degas bottle due to either exhaust gasses entering the system or steam from coolant that is getting vaporized??? Maybe the coolant still is chemically good... but maybe it is boiling and creating steam?????

 

[Bob Ayers]

Question to throw out to everyone.....

Does the quality of the coolant have an effect on the "burping" of the coolant from the degas bottle?

Meaning... does the EGR cooler and other cooling parts degrade or "boil" the coolant prematurely? Does flushing and using new coolant at a 50/50 ratio offer better protection?

For example, I flush my system with 19 gallons of distilled water and after it f;ows clear after the 5th time of flushing it... I then add the proper amount of Ford Premium Gold coolant. I do so every 50,000 miles as I do not believe in the 100,000 miles interval Ford states when using distilled water (50,000 miles if using tap water).

I also use a dieselsite.com coolant filter... but I wonder if the quality of the coolant or concentration is maybe off, low or bad and allows for the "boiling" or "steaming" of the coolant as it travels through the EGR cooler????

Any ideas guys... and experience to dismiss my idea... or could my "thought" be onto something?

Thanks,

I flush my cooling system with distilled water also Jeff. But, after draining the first time, I remove the thermostat, so I get full flow from the water pump. After flushing (probably 5 or 6 times), I install a new Motorcraft thermostat and gasket, then add new coolant & distilled water, giving me a 50/50 mix.

 

[Beachbumcook]

I flush my cooling system with distilled water also Jeff. But, after draining the first time, I remove the thermostat, so I get full flow from the water pump. After flushing (probably 5 or 6 times), I install a new Motorcraft thermostat and gasket, then add new coolant & distilled water, giving me a 50/50 mix.

Yep... great way to do it.

1) I drain via the lower radiator hose.

2) Refill with distilled water, idle and top off... then drive 5 miles or so until the thermostat opens and all is flushing around.

3) Drain via lower hose

4) Repeat steps #1 - #3 five times.

5) After 5 times, I have only 100% distilled water and I add the amount of coolant to bring to a 50/50 ratio for my system (something like 3-1/2 gallons).

I spend $11.00/gallon for the coolant from my Ford dealer and .99/gallon for distilled water from my local grocery store. In the end, I spent about $60 - $65.00 to do it right and know I am 50,000 miles ahead of schedule... heck that's less than an oil and filter change at the dealer or at home with synthetic oil... yet people do not do it as often or at all????

Your flushing system is good... just more work than I want to do... but definately the way to go!!!

 

[blacksnapon]

The burping can be any number of things, pressure buildup behind thermostat, then, when opened, the rush of coolant defeats pressure cap (there is a redesigned heater hose with a restrictor to slow the coolant)--exhaust gasses from egr cooler/head gaskets---air bubbles from replacing hoses/components---with a pressurized system, to generate steam, the mechanical failures to make it happen, I believe would show first.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

I'd say a hydrometer is only good for removing extra coolant from the bottle... a refractometer is the best way to check coolant out, along with PH testing. Also, anytime that coolant has vented THROUGH the degas bottle cap, it needs to be replaced... so your cap may be toast if it has vented already... and, make sure that you're not filling over the "MIN" mark on the degas bottle.