Dead Battery... NOT!!

[Skandocious]

Thanks Blackhat--- I actually do know the difference between constant duty and continuous duty solenoids/relays. I wasn't speaking of sending the power for the amp THROUGH the solenoid-- I was only speaking of grabbing the power from the 3 o'clock post on the solenoid, which is always hot anyways as it's a direct connection to the battery. This is what I did with my efan power because it was corroding A LOT around the ring terminal for the efan wire. Moved it to the always-hot post on the starter solenoid and the corrosion was DRASTICALLY reduced.

Can I not do this same thing with the amp power? It's not transferring power THROUGH the solenoid, just pulling it from the always hot post.

 

[blackhat620]

Thanks Blackhat--- I actually do know the difference between constant duty and continuous duty solenoids/relays. I wasn't speaking of sending the power for the amp THROUGH the solenoid-- I was only speaking of grabbing the power from the 3 o'clock post on the solenoid, which is always hot anyways as it's a direct connection to the battery. This is what I did with my efan power because it was corroding A LOT around the ring terminal for the efan wire. Moved it to the always-hot post on the starter solenoid and the corrosion was DRASTICALLY reduced.

Can I not do this same thing with the amp power? It's not transferring power THROUGH the solenoid, just pulling it from the always hot post.

That shouldn't be a problem since the power is not going through the solenoid. As you say it is just a connection to an always hot terminal.

 

[Skandocious]

That shouldn't be a problem since the power is not going through the solenoid. As you say it is just a connection to an always hot terminal.

Yeah that was my thinking too. But do you think the cable from the battery to the solenoid is thick enough to handle that many amps?

 

[blackhat620]

Yeah that was my thinking too. But do you think the cable from the battery to the solenoid is thick enough to handle that many amps?

Well i do not know. It depends how many amps your amplifier draws (good rule of thumb for power amps is to take total watt output, divide by 12 and then multiply by 2), and how long the wire is. The OEM battery cable is probably 4 gauge wire. Here is a link to cable sizes based on length and power draw.

www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

Personally i make all my battery cables out of 1/0 Welding cable. Works much better than the OEM crap.

www.hillsdaleterminal.com/batteryterminals.html
www.hillsdaleterminal.com/batteryweldingcable.html

 

[subford]

This is what I did with my efan power because it was corroding A LOT around the ring terminal for the efan wire. Moved it to the always-hot post on the starter solenoid and the corrosion was DRASTICALLY reduced.

Anytime you have corrosion (color change, rusting) around a ring terminal it is because of heat. Heat is caused by a loose connection, poor crimp on the connector, dirty connection or too small of a wire. In other words resistance (voltage drop) at that point.
You should not have your amp on while cranking the engine so the 4 GA cable to the solenoid is just used for starting the engine at this point. After the engine starts or not (setting in truck playing the radio) the 4 GA cable should power the amp with no problem.

The ring connector is not making good contact with the battery cable or its own wire or its own wire is too small. You should be able to tell this by putting your hand on the wire or the connection after the amp is on for a while.

 

[nobodyspecial]

Ohhhhh surrrrre. Stop posting for weeks and then come back and make fun of me and my vaseline!

Ehh, what can I say? I am a busy guy, but i make time for you, bud.

 

[Skandocious]

Anytime you have corrosion (color change, rusting) around a ring terminal it is because of heat. Heat is caused by a loose connection, poor crimp on the connector, dirty connection or too small of a wire. In other words resistance (voltage drop) at that point.
You should not have your amp on while cranking the engine so the 4 GA cable to the solenoid is just used for starting the engine at this point. After the engine starts or not (setting in truck playing the radio) the 4 GA cable should power the amp with no problem.

The ring connector is not making good contact with the battery cable or its own wire or its own wire is too small. You should be able to tell this by putting your hand on the wire or the connection after the amp is on for a while.

I'm using a very heavy gauge Monster Cable for the amp, I think its 1 or 0 gauge wire; so I don't think the cable is the problem. I think the battery may have been leaking onto the positive post.

I'll probably try and move the amp power over the starter solenoid when I replace the battery.

 

[Skandocious]

Report about the headlights-- very nice!

Of course I can't look at both side-by-side while I'm driving but it seems that they're much brighter I'm satisfied with my purchase of only $30. Plus I've got space working bulbs if one burns out when I'm away from a parts store.

After using the headlights a little more I've gotten a chance to get used to them and they're definitely brighter than the regular Silverstars. The color of the light is not noticeably different, though Sylvania says these are 4100k versus 4000k, but I definitely have better visibility since changing them.

To anyone who is in need of headlights, I highly recommend the Silverstar ULTRAS

 

[SuperCab]

i'm jealous. there isn't much selection in sealed beam headlights.