condensation or headgasket

[Alvin in AZ]

Alvin, I like the idea of moving the ICM to the outside. I just put
1" spacers under mine. I used 1" pieces of 3/8" copper tubing

Cool idea.

78 and 79 , the only reason I moved my ignition module was because
I took the can of tomatoes out from in front of it. Had no idea whether
that even mattered at all but it looked like it was acting as a sort of
radiant-heat-shield so, I moved it the same day I put the "new" plastic
vacuum can on. <shrug>

--------------------------

I believe killed the original module myself I while nursing a dying battery
(the original factory battery, replacement then was about $25) and
instead got to buy a module for $109! ...that was the price in '79. LOL

Hmmm... guessing that was about two days bring home pay for me.

They had a cheaper one but went with the Standard Motor Products
Blue Streak that -might've- "hiccuped" one-time a few years back so
bought another one just like it from Rockauto for way cheaper.

I carry the old one as a spare.

In '79 the Blue Streak module came with instructions that looked to be
the instructions that Ford -copied- (not the other way around) into the
Ford Shop Manual. Can't remember why but, remember thinking it didn't
sound like Ford's stuff, for one. That may be because it was written by
a different department than the rest of the mechanical stuff. But there
was something else I don't remember right now.

Anyway, -both- make a big deal about electrically-checking the truck
thoroughly to be sure the truck don't-up-and-damage the new module.

Also to be sure it isn't the transducer in the distributor. Just a few days
ago a guy was complaining he replaced the module and it turned out to
be the much cheaper transducer so ended up buying both. LOL

All I could say was "you big dummy! " so didn't say nothin'.

RTFM! = Read The Ford Manual!

And... "it takes me longer when I get in a hurry {too}" -Alvin

-----------------------

My '75 F150 360FE+T18 has never broke down and left me stranded
-anywhere- -ever-!

Alvin in AZ

 

[midnite]

havent had a chance to check the stat as of yet but i definately will. but my guage stays right in the middle of the word temp unless im pulling a decent hill and its like 80 outside then it creeps up towards the m a little bit but it has yet to go more than about a 1/4 of the way into the m and when i start goin down hill it falls back to between the e and the m and it just stays there

 

[Alvin in AZ]

my gauge stays right in the middle of the word temp unless im pulling a decent
hill and its like 80 outside then it creeps up towards the m a little bit but it has
yet to go more than about a 1/4 of the way into the m and when i start goin
down hill it falls back to between the e and the m and it just stays there

Oops was thinking of my Bronco but got the M letter right tho.

Yeah that all sounds perfect!
Most guys'll make you buy a "real" gauge before discussing it.
I've found the original to say-enough if they're working right.

On the O or R on the '91 Bronco.
And E and M on the '75 F150.

There's gauge test procedures in the Shop Manuals.

All it involves is two resistances but when stacking up resistors from
Radio Shack it's easy as anything to have a third value in between
to give you another point to see that the needle points at a spot in
between "full hot" and what Ford calls "cold", I call it "just warming
up".

I've got 6 or 8 used-and-new sending units and they all read about
the same resistance at room temperature so I tested 'em in boiling
water which is 205F here at 3600 feet (lab grade thermometer).
They all read about the same there too.

It's a pretty good system IMO.

----------------------------

Anyway, I'm guessing that it's getting plenty hot enough to drive
the water out of the oil. Important business that!

I don't run PVCs here in Arizona and never had a problem with water
building up like you describe but, wetter areas make a big difference.

Alvin in AZ