Anyone , someone got any answers to this one?

[Blue_Mule55]

1976 F-250 3/4 ton Dana 60 rear end (n pretty sure); issue....hubs AND brake drums come off together. I'm told by the good folks at NAPA they part. Question is...how?....PB Blaster and let em soak and trhen slowly softly knck the two apart or.....? I would think that the hub and drum come apart but of the two times I've had em apart they both come out together. I'd really appreciate the help.
going to be towing my home and all its worldly contents and the brakes are my first consideration.
thank you in adavance to all.

 

[LEB Ben]

They should separate. If you look on the back side of the hub/drum unit, you should see one little slot, maybe an inch long and 1/4" tall, there's like a miniature crow bar looking thing that goes in there so you rotate an internal star wheel to back the shoes off. If the shoes are backed off enough, the drum should come off. The reason they stick together is over time there are grooves worn in to the drum and the shoes and it causes lips to where they are damn near impossible to separate unless you can back the shoes off.

 

[Fellro]

I think he means the drum separate from the hub. They do, but will take some persuasion. I haven't seen them with retaining bolts, but looking up service procedures, courtesy Autozone, it mentioned some.

 

[LEB Ben]

I think he means the drum separate from the hub. They do, but will take some persuasion. I haven't seen them with retaining bolts, but looking up service procedures, courtesy Autozone, it mentioned some.

Whoops...he even said that, my fault.

 

[lostinfords]

I can't be certain ,...but I think the wheel lug stucds have to be knocked outin order to change the drums ....check w/ the parts store to see the length of the wheel lug stud to see if the ridges/serations are deeper than the hub...being that they would dig/lock into both the hub and drum, if they are knock the wheel studs out and the drum/hub will separate, I usually use a lug nut on the threads to knock 'em loose and turn the nut over to pull them back in...

 

[Fellro]

I just spotted the tech post, so I will elaborate a little. I haven't worked much with the D60, so it may have variations that I do not know of, but the hub is removable, either by press or by hammer. They don't pull off as nice as the rears on my Sterling. It may be such that the lugs help hold it together too. Rust will also work a bit like a glue...

 

[lostinfords]

I just spotted the tech post, so I will elaborate a little. I haven't worked much with the D60, so it may have variations that I do not know of, but the hub is removable, either by press or by hammer. They don't pull off as nice as the rears on my Sterling. It may be such that the lugs help hold it together too. Rust will also work a bit like a glue...

looks like we posted at the same time....

 

[Blue_Mule55]

LostinFords and others: It would appear as though the studs DO in fgact have to be PRESSED out or knocked out in order to seperate the drum from the hub...all of which means new wheel seals to BOTH sides IF you're going to do this correctly and without failure of a wheel seal. Damnit...I've got a picture of this arrangement and IF I knew how to upload this I'd so so , so that all could see what it is I am dealing with.......**sigh** another lost weekend,...

 

[Mil1ion]

Scroll halfway down the page

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004bca9

 

[LEB Ben]

I've got a picture of this arrangement and IF I knew how to upload this I'd so so , so that all could see what it is I am dealing with.......**sigh** another lost weekend,...

Create a gallery here, upload the picture, then copy the BB code, and paste that code in your post. Or upload to a site like photobucket and copy the IMG code and paste into your response.

 

[Fellro]

How thick is the material of the drum at the hub? That will indicate if you need to press it off or not. If it is pretty thin, then it should work loose.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I know on front discs on a 3/4 ton 44 are held to the hub by the studs I just hit em out with a hammer and a punch then got all new studs and rotors. It makes sense that the drums would be held on the same way. I havent messed with the drums on any of the ones ive had so I cant be sure.

 

[Blue_Mule55]

Okay....heres the way it is. Remove axle ( 8 bolts) and shim....flatten out the two lock tabs on the lock ring and spin off the outer lock nut,,remove the outer lock nut and the lock ring , spin off the inner lock ring....and the hub WITH drum comes out. Its at this point on a Dana full floating axle ( 60) that the studs HAVE to be pressed out or beat out and THEN I can replace the drum.....I don't know who at Ford dreamed this one up but its sure alot of work and extra cost if you had to do this more than once....and wheel seals are NOT cheap. I got er done......expirimentation...

 

[Blue_Mule55]

I got THAT little issue resolved. It took backing off the brake shoes via the star adjuster as well as a few shots of PB blaster to the studs and around the hub surface to eat up the rust that had been there since the thing got built of the factory floor. I appreciate everyone's help.

 

[Ozzie]

1976 F-250 3/4 ton Dana 60 rear end (n pretty sure); issue....hubs AND brake drums come off together. I'm told by the good folks at NAPA they part. Question is...how?....PB Blaster and let em soak and trhen slowly softly knck the two apart or.....? I would think that the hub and drum come apart but of the two times I've had em apart they both come out together. I'd really appreciate the help.
going to be towing my home and all its worldly contents and the brakes are my first consideration.
thank you in adavance to all.

Under the Dana axle section of the 1976 Ford truck chassis shop manual, page 15-05-1 says: "Model 61-1 is used on the F-250 and the F-350 when these vehicles are equipped with the 460-4V engine. Model 61-1 uses Model 60 service procedures. Model 61-1 is basically the same as Model 60 except that the axle housing is of heavier design."

Under the brake section (page 12-02-10), where it covers removal of the rear brake drum on the F-250,350; E-250,350; P-350,400, step 6 says: "Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts, or bolts & nuts. Remove the brake drum from the hub."

While I can't remember the details on the drum-hub connection on mine, I don't recall any significant problem to do the brake work except that I had to obtain one of those large sockets of the correct variety. I have a press, but I don't recall using it on that job. Perhaps because the drums were undamaged.

 

[hyperactive460]

Okay....heres the way it is. Remove axle ( 8 bolts) and shim....flatten out the two lock tabs on the lock ring and spin off the outer lock nut,,remove the outer lock nut and the lock ring , spin off the inner lock ring....and the hub WITH drum comes out. Its at this point on a Dana full floating axle ( 60) that the studs HAVE to be pressed out or beat out and THEN I can replace the drum.....I don't know who at Ford dreamed this one up but its sure alot of work and extra cost if you had to do this more than once....and wheel seals are NOT cheap. I got er done......expirimentation...

this design allows you to still drive your truck even if you break an axle shaft. the wheel and hub assembly is still attached to the axle even when you pull the axle shaft out.