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all my luck is turnin

bypassed the fuel selector and put in new line and filter because the other tank is dirty and got a bunch of sh** in the selector and started clogging the filter. truck is running like crap now and killed the battery when i test drove it. get down to the highway fine. turn around come up the hill about 40 still missin and acting up and then all of a sudden i hear a loud crack. the hood rips open and goes straight up and down goin 50ish so i keep going to the top before i stop. shut the truck off get out close the hood after noticing that it ripped everything out of whack. get back in cranks over. let off the key because i hear it slowing down but the engine keeps turning over for a minute and stopped. try one more time and the battery is done.

call the girlfriend she comes down i jump the truck starts right up drive it home and let it run for about 10 minutes shut it off and the battery still has no charge. so something is goofed up with the battery or solenoid or something.

the battery is only a year old and was a very good battery. its either 700 or 800 cca and never had any trouble with it. it was in a powerstroke then in a tractor once then stuck in my truck and all a sudden i go to over 20 and it dies.

the only good thing about all of this is the hood re aligned itself perfectly. never seen it that straight.
 

Big Jim F150

73-79 Ford Trucks Rock
Sounds weird to me, I have heard of cars and trucks backfiring,
but I know that sometimes it'll blow the muffler off or apart,
but not blowing the hood open, unless you had a malfunctioning
hood latch, or you didn't close the hood tightly so that it would catch
both latches, or that your safety latch failed after the main latch had failed.
Check those things out.
 
both latches failed. the first failed caught the second ripped the entire latch up about 1/2 inch and then gave out too.

is it possible for the alternator to run the truck but not charge the battery? my battery is dead but you can start the truck with 40 amps and it runs fine until you shut it off the battery is still dead. the battery hasn't had any trouble. it seems like it isn't recharging but the truck is still getting the power it needs
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
Get ahold of a voltmeter Tyler..start the truck connect the voltmeter to the battery..it should read around 13.8 to 14 volts for proper charging...I would also look into the voltage regulator on the passenger fender..these regulators are prone to go out without warning and will give a no charge condition as well...to me it sounding like a regulator gone bad
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North
Bob....it should be 14.4 minimum....doesn't sound like a huge difference but to the battery it is.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North
Thank you Duncan..I was taught 13.8 bare minimum...

That is for float assuming 77F....for charge it needs to be higher....it's a huge issue with diode isolators due to the forward voltage drop
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North

Big Jim F150

73-79 Ford Trucks Rock
I'd also check the wiring between the battery, voltage regulator, and alternator, for you also might have a short circuit somewhere in any of those components
 
Alright. Tomorrow if I get a chance ill take all the tape off all of it and check all the wires and redo it
 
Alternator went bad. And ruined two batteries. The alternator was fine I popped the battery cable off truck started to die until I slid back into the terminal pulle it away and it stalled.

The carb was making a loud whistling noise.. Anything to worry about? Or maybe is it just not tightens down?
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
Alternator went bad. And ruined two batteries. The alternator was fine I popped the battery cable off truck started to die until I slid back into the terminal pulle it away and it stalled.

This is a NO NO Tyler.....NEVER remove a battery cable from the Battery while it is running....it puts one helluva load on the alternator's diodes..along with other risks...Im sure Dennis (Mil1on) will school you,like he diid me on this matter..get a voltmeter for testing purposes.
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
Jeez.. When will people stop thinking the "pull the cable off the battery test" is a legit thing?

Even though this truck is not computer controlled, I know way to Many alternators being fried and ECU's burnt after doing this ridiculous test..
 

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