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AC compressor

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
2,409
101
Kasson, Minnesota
Well, my cheap salvage yard find of an AC compressor that worked great for about a month (which i never thought worked in the first place) took a crap. Funny, it was working fine until the other day I got home from about an hour drive and parked the truck and later heard air leaking out of the front of the compressor. I guess I'm assuming that's not good. What I'm wondering though is about replacement. The older compressor worked great and had cold AC, but is there a newer style that would work and does it work better or anything like that before I order a new compressor? Also, is there a place to get new AC lines just in case I would need those in the future? Thanks.
 

Mil1ion

Still Da Man
Buck, you might want consider swapping in an ready-aire compressor like they use on cars, rather then the heavy York compressor.

Bracketry Parts for a 78 Mercury Marquis would be readily available

Dennis
 

SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,068
547
Montana
Yeah, the York ones are pretty heavy. IDK if the Read-Aire ones are low drag, but if not, you may want to look into a later model low drag one instead...
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
9,461
301
waynesville,mo.
Well, my cheap salvage yard find of an AC compressor that worked great for about a month (which i never thought worked in the first place) took a crap. Funny, it was working fine until the other day I got home from about an hour drive and parked the truck and later heard air leaking out of the front of the compressor. I guess I'm assuming that's not good. What I'm wondering though is about replacement. The older compressor worked great and had cold AC, but is there a newer style that would work and does it work better or anything like that before I order a new compressor? Also, is there a place to get new AC lines just in case I would need those in the future? Thanks.
Why don't you just fix that one? Seal kits are cheap, and you can rent the tools to do the job.
 
Yorks aren't heavy it's the clutch that's heavy. :) And the thick
steel mounting plates add up to be more than the compressor too.

But a compressor with lots of pistons will be smoother running tho.

Me, I couldn't bear the idea of a looking under my hood and seeing
something like the new ones hooked to my FE. :/

Rebuilding the York compressor is a straight forward easy job. BTDT
Just get the parts and get after it. :)

I replaced the two bearings inside my York the rear bearing is easy,
it's the most common ball bearing made in the world, a 6203. :)

The other one I can help you find, it's a Koyo DG-256211-A.
ID is 25mm, OD is 62mm, thickness is 11mm.
It's a funny sucker, the cage actually sticks out past the races the
races are so narrow, at 11mm. :)

Check the bearing for wear by wiggling the inner race sideways and
spinning it and listening for noise and feeling for any roughness.

Wasn't just your over pressure valve let go was it? ;)

Alvin in AZ
 

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
2,409
101
Kasson, Minnesota
Alvin, good info there. AFA the pressure valve letting go, not sure. I guess I just noticed the air leaking and it was still leaking the next day and I texted message a buddy of mine who is a mechanic and he said (not for sure) that the compressor may be bad, so I'm thinking about the worse and just need to replace. The compressor sat inside a pickup for years and I just bought it to mock up my lines and belt and to pretty much use as a core if I need. I was surprised it worked in the first place. But, maybe I should just buy a rebuild kit and go for it. With everything I've put into the truck, I just want something that will last and I don't have to worry about it. I know new is not always better though.

D, ready air huh? Not familiar with those. where could I get one along with the bracket?
 
...where could I get one along with the bracket?

10 or is it 12?;) cylinder NipponDensos are available after market at automotive
A/C shops. They carry the brackets to convert to them too. The same place
where your area's mechanics get their automotive A/C parts. :)

Been there and they tried to sell me that. ;)
Yeah, I know-ed it was better stuff but still didn't want it. LOL :)

Or shop online?

Alvin in AZ
 
I was looking around and I saw a kit like that but the bracket was different. The one I was looking at had a set of elongated holes to pull tension on the belt the way the alternator brackets do.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-76-77-78-79-80-81-GRANADA-York-to-Sanden-conversion_W0QQitemZ180292985693QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item29fa4ca35d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7|39%3A1|240%3A1318

You can also buy the bracket alone for $95.

That bracket with the kit you linked to doesn't have any adjustment. How are you going to get the belt tight? Or do you have a serpentine set up? I'm fixing to start gathering parts to put my Factory A/C back in my truck so I'll have it for next summer.
 
Mine on my Factory set up does too, but I figured that part would be gone when the york compressor wasn't there anymore. Since it bolts to the compressor and then to the water pump.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Pickup-New-Rotary-A-C-Compressor-Conversion-Kit_W0QQitemZ200351855784QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea5e6b4a8&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A7|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318

This kit has an optional bracket (pic 6) to remount the idler that bolts to the york compressor that's what had me confused. I'm interested in anything that will work to get A/C back in my truck.
 
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bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
2,409
101
Kasson, Minnesota
Yeah, I forgot that the factory setup is a bit different than the bracket and idler pulley that I have from L&L.

IMG_1640.jpg


You can barely see the idler in this pic, but noticed I don't have the bracket to stabilize the compressor. I'm not worried too much about stabilizing the Sanden compressor since they are lighter and smoother (so it's claimed). Heck, I never had the York stabilized and it seemed pretty smooth. But, yes, I'm not sure how it works with the factory setup idler pulley.
 
Okay, I see now. You have a totally different bracket that the compressor sits on than I do. I have a big heavy cast iron one (at least that's what it feels like).

Before I go this route with the conversion to the sanden I'm going to try my old compressor.

Where did you get those R134a fittings on the compressor from? I've been searching all over for some!
 
I have a big heavy cast iron one

Yup I had the same setup. If you ever get rid of the A/C in your truck, yank the compressor but leave the big bracket in place to use as a cool step to stand on when you're working on your motor ;)
 
Thanks, I'll be ordering me some of those. I bookmarked the page.


Texas: I already took the compressor off and bracket when I redid the engine. I just have big nut and two washers as spacers between the power steering pump and the head. But leaving it as a step is a good idea.
 

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
2,409
101
Kasson, Minnesota
I think the factory hoses should connect ok to the different compressor. mailed the place I was looking at that kit and they replied asking if the hoses are #8 and #10 O rings. I believe they are, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
It should say on the hoses. I know it's written on mine, the hoses are #12 5/8" coming from the evaporator to the compressor and #8 13/32" leaving the compressor on the high side. In searching for hoses and fittings, I'm sure yours fittings are #8 and #10.

I can make out from your pic that the hose coming from the evap to the compressor is 5/8ths, so it probably has #12 hose with a #10 fitting. The valves you linked to, have 7/8ths 14 thread for the suction and that is a #10 fitting. Thats what I determined I would need, is the #10 fitting going to a #12 hose. I don't see any writing on the other hose, but just like the first valve, the description of the discharge valve it says it has a 3/4ths 16 thread and that is a #8 fitting. So I would say you are right.
 
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