351W

[RedLariat85]

Hey everyone,

Like some of you know, I would like to swap in a carbed 351W in my truck in few years.

I can get a "good" 351W out of a 1986 Ford F-250 at a junkyard for $200.00.

That '86 351 will be flat-tappet right? If so, I've heard that flat-tappet cams need zinc in the oil, which is no longer put in oil (so I've heard), otherwise the cam will wear fast. Is that true?

 

[5.0Flareside]

i thought it would be just a hydraulic cam. but im probably wrong.

 

[conanski]

i thought it would be just a hydraulic cam. but im probably wrong.

All the cams in these motors are hydraulic cams.. both the flat tappet and roller versions.

The wear issue is a valid concern too but not a major problem, there are still oils with zinc and also additives you can buy.

 

[Dirky]

A high zinc dithiophosphate content is very crucial to initial camshaft break-in and general break-in of new parts. The engine your buying is probably not a new rebuild, so zinc levels are not as crucial, since the parts have been worn in.

 

[LEB Ben]

Go with Shell Rotella...pretty cheap and has a high zinc content. Personally, I use the 15w-40 diesel oil.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I use that but it still dont have enough zinc in it to keep the lifters from gettin ate on a new rebuild I also run a zinc addative just to be sure itll have enough.

 

[LEB Ben]

I use that but it still dont have enough zinc in it to keep the lifters from gettin ate on a new rebuild I also run a zinc addative just to be sure itll have enough.

Definitely...I didn't mean that it should be used as a break in oil, just that with regular oil changes it should help extend cam life.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Well its a good break in oil it just needs a little help in the zinc department. Really any good quality oil in a motor that has already been broke in will be fine. Just stay away from the cheap stuff like quaker state. Id also run a heavier vicosity like 10w30 or thicker year round. Dont get 5w30 cause it gets too thin when it gets hot and that can cause more porblems. I run Rotella 15w40 year round and aint had a problem besides tryin to add oil when its 10 degrees it takes forever.

 

[RedLariat85]

I was talking to this guy I know today, and he told me that he has a 1969 351W Block that I can have for $150.00.

Is that a good deal?

He told me that the '69 blocks had a really strong bottom end.

 

[LEB Ben]

Is he saying JUST the block, or does it have the internals. Some blocks are more than worth $150, but I'm not sure I'd pay that for a weezy...unless you plan on dropping the coin for a complete build. But if it's a long block, that's a different story and I'd say go for it. And I'm not sure what tranny you have now, but you'll wanna find bellhousing/tranny that'll mate to that 69. So what's your budget?

 

[RedLariat85]

Is he saying JUST the block, or does it have the internals. Some blocks are more than worth $150, but I'm not sure I'd pay that for a weezy...unless you plan on dropping the coin for a complete build. But if it's a long block, that's a different story and I'd say go for it. And I'm not sure what tranny you have now, but you'll wanna find bellhousing/tranny that'll mate to that 69. So what's your budget?

It has everything except for the intake, carb, pistons, and valve covers.

I do plan on building it up...but it wont be for awhile yet. It would have to be a low-budget build.

I would like to drop in a C6 when I put a 351W in.

I could either get the 1969 351W for $150, or a complete 351W out of a 86 F-250 for $200.

 

[5.0Flareside]

id go with the 69. cause likely you wont use the stock intake or carb on it so why get it? and the 69 has a extremely strong lower end. can handle more abuse.

 

[RedLariat85]

id go with the 69. cause likely you wont use the stock intake or carb on it so why get it? and the 69 has a extremely strong lower end. can handle more abuse.

Yeah, thats what I'm thinking...I'll just have to get a new distributor.

What makes the 69's bottom end so strong?

 

[5.0Flareside]

i believe. but i may be wrong if my memory is correct it has thicker cylinder walls.

 

[LEB Ben]

If you're planning on a build anyway...go with the 69.

 

[RedLariat85]

If you're planning on a build anyway...go with the 69.

Alright, I will get the 69 then. I planned on putting a Holley on it, but alot of people say that they dont like Holley's, why is that?

 

[5.0Flareside]

Alright, I will get the 69 then. I planned on putting a Holley on it, but alot of people say that they dont like Holley's, why is that?

they tend to run really rich.

 

[rickpilgrim]

For flat tappet cams, we run 10w-30 diesel oil, and have never had a cam/lifter related problem with any of the 56 flat tappet cam motors we have, from Briggs and Stratton to Ford to Zenoa. Use a zinc additive for break in.
I'm told the first few yrs of the 351 have thicker walls and main webs, and are our engine guys prefered block for 393 builds, and that good enough reason to go with the 69 engine IMO.
Holley is a good carb but a bit harder to set up than the Edelbrock, and yes they are jetted richer. In all fairness I have never had an aftermarket carb that is jetted perfect out of the box. IMO holley is a better max power carb and Edelbrock has smoother throttle response on the street.

 

[conanski]

I could either get the 1969 351W for $150, or a complete 351W out of a 86 F-250 for $200.

Get whatever block has been bored out the least. The '69 is stronger but any 351 block is about twice as strong as a 302 block and even that will support 400hp no problem at all, so this is a complete non-issue IMO. The newer motor will also be setup for a 1-piece crank seal which isn't as leak prone.

I would like to drop in a C6 when I put a 351W in..

Why.. so you can get really bad milage too?

 

[RedLariat85]

Get whatever block has been bored out the least. The '69 is stronger but any 351 block is about twice as strong as a 302 block and even that will support 400hp no problem at all, so this is a complete non-issue IMO. The newer motor will also be setup for a 1-piece crank seal which isn't as leak prone.

Why.. so you can get really bad milage too?

Yeah, I was really thinking about the two engines today...and I think I might go with the '86 351W. Only because I will be able to use the stock heads. Because if I get the '69, It wont be able to run on unleaded fuel, and I dont really want to get too far into the heads.

I'm kinda leaning towards having the AOD built, but I'm not sure...may just be cheaper to go with a C6.