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1997 F-350 Longbed 7.5L


Micro Machine Manager
Hey all!

I'm back! It's been busy. I'll update my diesel mechanic thread later.

I'm looking at a 97 F-350 to help put my 92 F-150 down for its engine reswap back to SnJ.

I like this truck I found. 125K miles, rusty but solid frame. Body isn't great but cab is actually solid and straight. Tires, etc are good. Has a goose neck already in the bed, but the bed will be due to replace in the near future. No tailgate.

Engine bay is clean. There is an oil drip on the pan starting at the stick (can I get a new stick and replace?)

I think it smells like it might be burning some oil. The pipe is clean. The truck feels like it has power. Cruise control works, etc. Engine Oil Pressure is at the N (lower than on my f-150 by a few letters). It could have to do with the leak at the dip stick. Oil level was fine when I checked. Radiator is good. The AC kinda works, thinking it needs a recharge. Has good compression and fan pressure, but the condenser could also be faulty.

Overall, just a good bomber for $4K OBO.

Question is I pulled the codes.

172 (EGO-L?) Low voltage indicating lean gas?

536 (BOO Fail). Think this was my fault, I wasn't pushing brakes or anything but they worked great on the test drive.

538 (Engine cylinder cannot be detected) and....

8 (Cylinder)

It drove fine. Could the injector just be loose? What should I do to consider this not a lemon?

I looked underneath. The shocks should all be replaced. It has 2 brand new tanks though under the bed (I should look under the liner and see if he pulled them through, but I don't think he did and there are new straps!) New sender units and tanks is nice.

The front of the 4x4 drive has a little noise between the u-joints (if that's what they're called). The rear drive shaft is solid. I think it will need the front replaced eventually. It looks good in the back (new u-joints). New sway bars in back axle too.

There's a small structural fail on what appears to be a passenger side (1 of 2 points of contact) to underneath the bed. I am not sure what to call the piece of metal, not frame, that needs to be replaced.

There is also a heat shield that goes under the passenger floor above the cat converter that has fallen half way off and needs to be replaced. Again unsure what to call it and how hard it would be to replace.

The front calipers and brake lines are probably due to be fixed at some point as they're all rusty and crusty.

Besides the oil leak from the oil stick, there is a small oil leak on the back differential/pinion area.

Any recommendations on those codes and how much risk/heartache I'm getting into would be great. I'm thinking it's still worth $3-3.5K if the engine isn't bad, but that cylinder 8 and 538 code are making me worried. I'd like some advice on that at least.




Micro Machine Manager
Struck a deal for $3400 on this Truck. If anyone has any ideas about the codes?

I'm thinking the injectors could be clogged, broken wire to injector, or bad injector before a bad cylinder on #8. The sparks and cap and wires are all new.

He's also got the pinion seal leak under warranty so the mechanic that just did the repair will take care of it.

The oil dipstick leaking is a problem for this 460 7.5L. I need a new one or a repair. Suggestions on where to find or how to repair so I can park without ruining my black top? This is a new repair to me. I figured drain the oil, take the old dip stick off the side, put a new one on or repair the old one, reinsert, do oil change.

It doesn't feel like it has a skip despite the #8 cylinder not reporting on the ODB1/2 code reader as good. It has power. It has that 172 lean EGO code. That seems like the injector might be clogged and causing the lean condition?



Micro Machine Manager

So far, ripped out old stereo and installed bluetooth retro -- three of four speakers work great!

Pinion Seal warranty work repaired by mechanic that did all the work including 2 new fuel tanks and a bunch of other good stuff.

Acquired new dipstick for the 460 engine oil leak at the tube. Will be installing.

To Be Done:

New Windshield (delaminating/ugly)
New Shocks all around.
New Injectors
Add 15K lb tow kit (has goose-neck in bed, want standard ball and pintle options)
New Tailgate or something (has none)

Will take some pictures. It's not a beauty on the shell but the cab and engine are beautiful and the frame is not falling apart.
I like how you started out with the important stuff(stereo), lol.

You keep checking things off the list, glad you are getting things done!


Micro Machine Manager
I like how you started out with the important stuff(stereo), lol.

You keep checking things off the list, glad you are getting things done!


I know what I'm good at and what's easiest for me. Plus it does make it more fun to drive. hah hah hah

Thanks! I'll keep updating. Should have it back any day from the mechanic and will take pictures (she's rough on the outside, but good on the bottom and cab/engine).


Micro Machine Manager
Quick Question about changing out the oil dip stick.

Much like a (seized & OLD) spark plug, I guess these things are prone to break off in the engine mount?

I found some handy tools (dipstick tube extractors) ranging $43-$170 for a kit and they do a whole array of different blocks like my 300-6, etc.

I can't find one that does the 429/360/470 block (amazed, I now know these are essentially the same engine, redesigned for newer or commercial eras with larger liters as things progressed).

Is an oil tube breaking off in these blocks not a big deal or is there a trick or is it just not even possible?
I've got the new oil tube, so I'm thinking I'll hit up an oil change and swap it myself this weekend.


Staff member
They are generally just lightly pressed in, then glued by rust... They do extend downward, so possible to remove the pan and push it out from underneath. Easy to say, not as easy to do.


Micro Machine Manager
They are generally just lightly pressed in, then glued by rust... They do extend downward, so possible to remove the pan and push it out from underneath. Easy to say, not as easy to do.

Yeah, I saw a guy's video on his tube and there was part of the drive train and a whole bunch of unnecessary work depending on the truck in order to drop the oil pan if you get to that point. Gonna try to avoid it! :thanks:

I guess a lot of pre-soak PB Blasting is in order before removal. The new stick looks beautiful and an easy install, so I'll give her the old college try and take pictures. YelloThumbUp

Afterthought: Anti-seize on new dip stick?
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Micro Machine Manager
Ok, so here are some pictures of the F-350 with a leaky dip stick tube. I took a look at what I was sold on Amazon and it is shorter and looks questionable. Truck's cab is clean, the frame is pretty good despite lots of rust from the bed and some structure supports to the bed.

I'll link more pictures, but this is the Truck to replace my F-150's duty as soon as I have it reliable.

Pinion Seal was redone, so no more rear leak. There is a leak out the oil dipstick tube. I'll take a picture of the replacement part later, but it does not match the length, etc. I'm thinking I was sold a transmission tube and dip stick. There is a Dorman offering 635549 but wanted to see if that's the part I need? Here's the item on Amazon, also available at RockAuto for $2 less after shipping (just ordered on Amazon).

Oh instead of a picture, here's the dip stick and tube I bought on Amazon originally. It's threaded. Maybe it won't work so I'm halting on changing it just yet.

Also, for the oil change, the original manufacturer said 5w30 Full Synthetic, but I've found a lot of reports saying 5w20 Full Synthetic. Which oil should I be using? My vehicle manual only covers up to 1996 F-350s, so want to double check with some experts here.

Brake Control.jpg

Cab 1.jpg


Left Side.jpg


Right Side.jpg

PB Blasted Oil Check Tube.jpg


Micro Machine Manager
Ok, next update question/scenario:

The Cat Converter is rough and muffler/tail pipes are non-existent. Needs a new muffler/tail pipe and hangars at the minimum? There is ONE ok-looking hangar, but this muffler should be a dual-exhaust at least OEM?

Looking for advice. I read something about checking thermal from front of Cat to rear of Cat and if there is not a ~100 deg difference, the Cat is fouled? So starting at about 80 deg (at temperature) the cat is supposedly showing bad condition and definitely at say 50 deg or less difference from inlet and outlet. Of course a bad cat means there’s probably other problems and in my two f-series likely oil and fuel, possibly coolant, from old engines and piston ring failures.

Can I get a good check on this rusty Cat? Or should I just replace, and it looks like I can't do bolt-on, but maybe clamp-on? Or weld?

Looking for recommendations on new Catalytic Converter and muffler/tale pipe? Hangars also look like they are not useful. Attaching photos for opinions/recommendations and part numbers if known.

Last picture is of a smaller pipe connection on top of the Cat. Is this where an O2 Sensor might go? I'm not too familiar, this will be new to me to work on. Yes, I'm willing to learn to weld and have a good time on this if that's the best method but wouldn't mind clamps if they're a good way to do everything. The top tube on the cat looks welded, but it could just be a huge layer or rust.

Aft Structure Support Driver Side.jpg

Aft Structure Support to Bed.jpg

Broke Structure Supports (Cat Con verter).jpg

Catalytic Converter.jpg

Rear Hangar.jpg

Top of Catalytic Converter.jpg
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Micro Machine Manager
Have some leaks from oil pan, back.

Think it's the oil dip stick mounting point and the drain pan needing a new gasket on its drain plug. Adding pictures for that and wondering if the transfer/tranny look like they're leaking too, or is this most likely just oil sliding back?

Re-attaching the oil leak from the oil check tube on the oil pan which clearly shows the largest of leaks.

PB Blasted Oil Check Tube.jpg

Slight Fluid Leaks.jpg

Slight Fuel Leaks 2.jpg


Micro Machine Manager
Ok, last thing. The front gas tank (new tank and filler tube installed) takes gas. The Rear aft of the rear axle (not mid-ship tank!) will not take gas and shoots it back out at the new filler tube. It looks pinched, but the tank looks a little high too. In addition, I took a good look at the filler tube neck installed by the shop that was working of the F350 and it LOOKS like (after checking out Rock Auto, NAPA, etc) that the filler tube installed is the midship fuel tank filler tube/neck. The aft rear axle tank has a slightly different after rear axle filler tube/neck.

I'm hoping the shop this was done will warranty this work. Paid them $400, not my call, to avoid impoundment as the seller of the f350 said he'd repair the pinion seal contingent on sale (I purchased) and he took it there, authorized the repair plus this after rear tank's filler neck install (I didn't realize the after tank was not hooked up to the gas tank when I bough it, my bad, but was NEVER discussed). Guy (active duty soldier, I'm a veteran, thought he'd not screw me) said if the pinion seal was not under warranty that he'd pay for it. $400 later, filing for 2 months loss of use (insurance) as he played f*** f*** games via text with me and the shop he took it too and resulted in me paying the bill for a repair he claimed was warrantied/he'd pay if not and another repair I had no idea was going to happen or was authorized or discussed.

The point is, does this look like the filler neck is wrong? I don't have a good picture of this, but the tube is kinda scrunched on the longeron (perlon?) left frame rail as it goes over it and up to the gas tank. It's not pinched as much that no fluid can flow through it, but it is higher at its lowest point than the actual gas fill point on the rear tank, so gas comes back out at you rather than up over the pinch and into the tank once it fills to that level. Wondering what I should be telling the shop -- hopefully they'll agree the mistake is theirs and they can correct it and the possible wrong filler neck they ordered.

EDIT: Last photo is old trailer hitch mount. It's rotted pretty good. Going to remove and install new trailer hitch -- any suggestions on class IV or V hitches for this truck? Has a 6-pin built into the chrome bumper, looks solid enough. Will remove the 6-pin and rewire with a 7 and 4-pin.

Aft Rear Axle Gas Tank.jpg

Installed Filler Tube.jpg

Old Hitch Supports.jpg