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1997 F-350 Longbed 7.5L

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Hey all!

I'm back! It's been busy. I'll update my diesel mechanic thread later.

I'm looking at a 97 F-350 to help put my 92 F-150 down for its engine reswap back to SnJ.

I like this truck I found. 125K miles, rusty but solid frame. Body isn't great but cab is actually solid and straight. Tires, etc are good. Has a goose neck already in the bed, but the bed will be due to replace in the near future. No tailgate.

Engine bay is clean. There is an oil drip on the pan starting at the stick (can I get a new stick and replace?)

I think it smells like it might be burning some oil. The pipe is clean. The truck feels like it has power. Cruise control works, etc. Engine Oil Pressure is at the N (lower than on my f-150 by a few letters). It could have to do with the leak at the dip stick. Oil level was fine when I checked. Radiator is good. The AC kinda works, thinking it needs a recharge. Has good compression and fan pressure, but the condenser could also be faulty.

Overall, just a good bomber for $4K OBO.

Question is I pulled the codes.

172 (EGO-L?) Low voltage indicating lean gas?

536 (BOO Fail). Think this was my fault, I wasn't pushing brakes or anything but they worked great on the test drive.

538 (Engine cylinder cannot be detected) and....

8 (Cylinder)

It drove fine. Could the injector just be loose? What should I do to consider this not a lemon?

I looked underneath. The shocks should all be replaced. It has 2 brand new tanks though under the bed (I should look under the liner and see if he pulled them through, but I don't think he did and there are new straps!) New sender units and tanks is nice.

The front of the 4x4 drive has a little noise between the u-joints (if that's what they're called). The rear drive shaft is solid. I think it will need the front replaced eventually. It looks good in the back (new u-joints). New sway bars in back axle too.

There's a small structural fail on what appears to be a passenger side (1 of 2 points of contact) to underneath the bed. I am not sure what to call the piece of metal, not frame, that needs to be replaced.

There is also a heat shield that goes under the passenger floor above the cat converter that has fallen half way off and needs to be replaced. Again unsure what to call it and how hard it would be to replace.

The front calipers and brake lines are probably due to be fixed at some point as they're all rusty and crusty.

Besides the oil leak from the oil stick, there is a small oil leak on the back differential/pinion area.



Any recommendations on those codes and how much risk/heartache I'm getting into would be great. I'm thinking it's still worth $3-3.5K if the engine isn't bad, but that cylinder 8 and 538 code are making me worried. I'd like some advice on that at least.

Thanks!

-KJ
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Struck a deal for $3400 on this Truck. If anyone has any ideas about the codes?

I'm thinking the injectors could be clogged, broken wire to injector, or bad injector before a bad cylinder on #8. The sparks and cap and wires are all new.

He's also got the pinion seal leak under warranty so the mechanic that just did the repair will take care of it.

The oil dipstick leaking is a problem for this 460 7.5L. I need a new one or a repair. Suggestions on where to find or how to repair so I can park without ruining my black top? This is a new repair to me. I figured drain the oil, take the old dip stick off the side, put a new one on or repair the old one, reinsert, do oil change.

It doesn't feel like it has a skip despite the #8 cylinder not reporting on the ODB1/2 code reader as good. It has power. It has that 172 lean EGO code. That seems like the injector might be clogged and causing the lean condition?

-KJ
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Updates:

So far, ripped out old stereo and installed bluetooth retro -- three of four speakers work great!

Pinion Seal warranty work repaired by mechanic that did all the work including 2 new fuel tanks and a bunch of other good stuff.

Acquired new dipstick for the 460 engine oil leak at the tube. Will be installing.

To Be Done:

New Windshield (delaminating/ugly)
New Shocks all around.
New Injectors
Add 15K lb tow kit (has goose-neck in bed, want standard ball and pintle options)
New Tailgate or something (has none)

Will take some pictures. It's not a beauty on the shell but the cab and engine are beautiful and the frame is not falling apart.
 

Jasperrc

Texas Chapter member
I like how you started out with the important stuff(stereo), lol.

You keep checking things off the list, glad you are getting things done!
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
I like how you started out with the important stuff(stereo), lol.

You keep checking things off the list, glad you are getting things done!

:rofl:

I know what I'm good at and what's easiest for me. Plus it does make it more fun to drive. hah hah hah

Thanks! I'll keep updating. Should have it back any day from the mechanic and will take pictures (she's rough on the outside, but good on the bottom and cab/engine).
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Quick Question about changing out the oil dip stick.

Much like a (seized & OLD) spark plug, I guess these things are prone to break off in the engine mount?

I found some handy tools (dipstick tube extractors) ranging $43-$170 for a kit and they do a whole array of different blocks like my 300-6, etc.

I can't find one that does the 429/360/470 block (amazed, I now know these are essentially the same engine, redesigned for newer or commercial eras with larger liters as things progressed).

Is an oil tube breaking off in these blocks not a big deal or is there a trick or is it just not even possible?
I've got the new oil tube, so I'm thinking I'll hit up an oil change and swap it myself this weekend.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
7,726
277
Iowa County, Iowa
They are generally just lightly pressed in, then glued by rust... They do extend downward, so possible to remove the pan and push it out from underneath. Easy to say, not as easy to do.
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
They are generally just lightly pressed in, then glued by rust... They do extend downward, so possible to remove the pan and push it out from underneath. Easy to say, not as easy to do.

Yeah, I saw a guy's video on his tube and there was part of the drive train and a whole bunch of unnecessary work depending on the truck in order to drop the oil pan if you get to that point. Gonna try to avoid it! :thanks:

I guess a lot of pre-soak PB Blasting is in order before removal. The new stick looks beautiful and an easy install, so I'll give her the old college try and take pictures. YelloThumbUp


Afterthought: Anti-seize on new dip stick?
 
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