I have a dumb question. What makes the OEM hubs the strongest or best. You always hear people talking up Warn, M/M or SuperWinch. I have never heard much about the factory hubs.I am now interested. Once my truck is on the road, it will spend quite a bit of time locked in 4x4. The winters are...
Unless there is a trick I don't know about, the rods and clips are a pain to get into place with the little bit of room there is to work with.Thanks for the diagrams.
Glad to hear you all are ok, also glad you are rebuilding the truck.The Jaws of Life are a pretty cool tool, though they do usually cause some extra damage.
Scrolling back about a year and a half, this is what she looked like.Fast forward to now....... She finally drove out of the shop under her own power. There is still a million things to do before she is road ready, but this was a big step for me.
I plan to get this built enough to get it on the road safely. Keep modding it and doing functional upgrades. I want to teach my kids to drive with this truck too. I would also like to make it capable enough to make a few short 4x4 offroad trips with my Dad along with our local 4x4 forum members...
Thanks Evan. The plug wires look bigger than they are due to the protective cover they have on them. I am not a big fan of the clear cap. I have a blue in the shop. The clear one sure makes it easy to se where the rotor is pointing though.Thanks BuzzGun, it has taken longer than I wanted, but...
Not to drag up an old thread, but it pertains directly to the next step on my truck.Did you find the correct wire that was hot in the "start" and "run" positions? If so, which one did you use?Thanks a million.
:flag: Welcome Home, thank you for your service so that WE can enjoy the country we LOVE. :flag:I'll bet it was a sweet feeling to fire her up and take a drive. Hope she is all you were expecting and more.
I am looking for the two pieces of rocker trim that go on the bottom of the front fenders between the wheel well opening and the door. Mainly the pasenger side.
Thanks
To all the above, YES....I would like a Volt meter in my 74. I was thinking abiyt sending the original out to RCC Inovations for it to be converted, but if it's something I can do myself, I'd probably give it a shot.When you have time, it would be great of you to do a write-up that includes...
I want to make sure I'm covered for my next little project.I was debating to either rebuild the 2brl carb that's on the truck or go ahead and replace it with the 4brl Barry Grany and Edelbrock Performer 390 I have. Since I already have the 4brl carb, intake and associated gaskets I have...
To me the fix would depend whether it was leaking from the mating surface between the diff housing and the seal or between the axle shaft and the sealing portion of the seal. I am not sure what is leaking from the problem as described.
This should be a sweet build.Looking forward to progress updates also.You might be able to use RC Turck parts for the lift, axles and the rest of the drivetrain.
Not the back side of the cover, but does it fully cover the back portion of the seat. When you tilt your seat forward, what does it look like? I'm sure it's probably the black stretchy type of material on the back.
Thanks for taking the time to post the info Ken.I am very familiar with Dri-Wash, as my grandfather use to sell it back in the early 90's (I think). Man that was a while back
Sounds like a good tech question for the manufacture. Changing the illumination color would most likely be a standard question they have been asked. Blue definately looks good, but the green has more of an OE look.
Hey Ken, I was just reading the other thread on the Fukken Wax. You were going to try it on your wifes mustang. I did not see any review after that.Since you posted "The previous company I've used for years was Dri-WashnGuard.", I assume you have changed, but you know what happens when you...