The validation begins!

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

The proto build begins right after lunch is done. Design has been fully revised, is now dubbed "Concept B", and me can't wait to test. This is all because, every vehicle on the road deserves to have fade-to-off/theater lighting to operate the LED courtesy lighting.

 

[SuperCab]

Let us know how it works!

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

Well, the first part of Concept B proto build is done, locating the components on the breadboard, and doing so in a manner that didn't require ripping it apart and trying over and over 10 times. Haven't done any bread boarding since a Digital Circuit Theory class back at WSU and that was..........31 years ago, so things don't happen at lightning speed. But.....they are happening.

-----------------------------------------

Let us know how it works!

Absolutely!!! But must I confess if I fail? Or shall I do so gracefully by mentioning that "some fine tuning is required"?

*The last option is a distinct possibility, this is a proto build that should work, but.......

 

[smokey]

Breadboards are nice way easier than etching a circuit board.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Holy crap..I haven't farted around with a breadboard since the early 80's.

"Hobby Blox" were the shiznit then.

Good luck with it Bill!

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

Module completed. Next step is to drink a couple beers, then verify that it's wired correct (I'm 99.99999999% sure it is). After that, preset the POT and then test it in the Ranger. This isn't too bad, it's just five wires.

*In the pic, the transistor in the upper right corner of the pic will see ~ 2Amps. It's expected that a temporary heat sink will be attached to it; nothing more than a scrap of some metal and a screw/nut to hold it in place. Jury is out on the other transistor and Schottky diode.

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

Breadboards are nice way easier than etching a circuit board.

Especially when it's a prototype. In the end, the game plan is to use one of those solderable breadboards, unless somehow I can determine or someone can direct me to a method, and without a tremendously painful learning curve, to etch a very nice board. Maybe not micro lines on it, big is ok, but nice, clean straight and along those lines. I have made a few boards that, back in the um........late 70's, and used....masking tape and a razor, and that ain't going to cut it. They were crude, making tape turds but they worked and when you're 16 or so, who cared. But today, me want the professional look.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Letraset and a postive ...or by this time I'll bet a printer can do it. Can't remember the name, but there are crystals that worked way better than ferric chloride for doing the actual etch.

 

[fatherdoug]

Amazing, Bill!

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

Thanks Doug.

Letraset and a postive ...or by this time I'll bet a printer can do it. Can't remember the name, but there are crystals that worked way better than ferric chloride for doing the actual etch.

What?

I too was wondering about a printer, but I'd bet it's specialized. Just a guess, but somehow it has to be able to cut the media it prints on. Thoughts? My 15 YO razor blade cut lines in making tape made ugly but functional boards; today I'd desire near pro quality from a DIY experience.

 

[smokey]

They make press and peel paper you print onto the paper with a laser printer. Rub it on the the board dip in the acid and you have a board. Easy and it works.

 

[cbaker65]

........

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

The smoke from (wrongly and unexpectedly) an overheating 22 ohm resistor has an odor like none other, and the poor little resistor looks like a micro hotdog that was left on the grill too long. And with that said and no other answers as to what is wrong, beer is the final and correct answer for today.


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They make press and peel paper you print onto the paper with a laser printer. Rub it on the the board dip in the acid and you have a board. Easy and it works.

I'd like to learn more about this down the road. MUST a guy use a laser printer ( don't have one)?

 

[SuperCab]

Theres your problem, you let the smoke out

As it was explained to me by a wise man once, electrical apparatuses run on smoke, and the releasing of the smoke causes the electrical apparatus to cease functioning

You and Duncan may disagree with that explanation

 

[fatherdoug]

^^^ This has been my experience. I have also found that capacitors can only be discharged when you touch them.

 

[SuperCab]

That has been accurate in my experience, Doug

 

[fatherdoug]

Theres your problem, you let the smoke out

As it was explained to me by a wise man once, electrical apparatuses run on smoke, and the releasing of the smoke causes the electrical apparatus to cease functioning

You and Duncan may disagree with that explanation

I liked apparati better.

 

[SuperCab]

I did to but some googling indicated that it was incorrect

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

^^^ This has been my experience. I have also found that capacitors can only be discharged when you touch them.

It's only 22uF, you could put it on your tongue and most likely you'd barely feel it.

Looks like today will involve component testing to the extent possible and trouble shooting. If there is some good news, it's that before the smoke me determined that about half of the device was functioning (the switching side that controls current to the lights) and half wasn't (side with the capacitor which, as it drains, actually causes the lights to slowly fade). The smoke came after I swapped out a (741) IC, an op amplifier located between the "sides"; this device amplifies the tiny electrical signal from the slowly draining capacitor and feeds the amplified signal to the side with a couple components that regulate and allow the current to the lights to vary.

More to follow later today.

 

[CowboyBilly9Mile]