Should i change my plans.

[Turtle400]

I think you're the first person Ive ever met in my life that liked Fram.

LOL Do i see a intervention coming. LOL

 

[5.0Flareside]

I have been using Fram for years. interesting video, but i will stick with fram.

Wow...




That is all...


Wow


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[Turtle400]

So i guess no one has heard of Gear heads engines.com I am comparing the cost of a rebuild my self, vs a crate motor

 

[Beach66Bum]

It's called a anti drain back valve.. A lot of frams don't have em. And if they do they're junk. Which causes dry starts and in turn after years of this cause wear..

And bwhahahaha have you ever cut a fram open?

Here's a video for ya I watched about 3 years ago..




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Thanks for posting this video Chris!

 

[5.0Flareside]

So i guess no one has heard of Gear heads engines.com I am comparing the cost of a rebuild my self, vs a crate motor

never heard of them.

mabbco motors is where i got my short block for my truck from..

they also do long blocks and no core charge.... this is theyre long block 400. you can call them and have them make small adjustments to it if needed.. and to double check to see (im 99% sure) if they install the timing straight up no retarded on the 400s..

http://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog..._CORE_REQUIRED_-_1_Year_Limited_Warranty_/950

 

[Turtle400]

Well plans do change, the truck changed them for me.
The 400 decided that its life is over.
I have not started pulling it apart yet, i just got it home. I expect when i get her apart to find valve damage along with push rods and a broke timing chain.

 

[LEB Ben]

never heard of them.

mabbco motors is where i got my short block for my truck from..

they also do long blocks and no core charge.... this is theyre long block 400. you can call them and have them make small adjustments to it if needed.. and to double check to see (im 99% sure) if they install the timing straight up no retarded on the 400s..

http://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog..._CORE_REQUIRED_-_1_Year_Limited_Warranty_/950

That's really not that bad...figure head and cylinder work would be $600 to true them up. Then top end parts are another $500 easy.

 

[5.0Flareside]

It's really cheaper than doing it yourself.. All the running around. Time taken up, assembly.. Shipping of all the parts..

And they use goo name brand parts...


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[G.O. Stang]

It's really cheaper than doing it yourself.. All the running around. Time taken up, assembly.. Shipping of all the parts..

And they use goo name brand parts...


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Cheaper unless you are a machinist yourself. As I am. Or know one. Those prebuilt long blocks aren't the best though. Sure they'll go down the road fine, but their bearing clearances may be of from one side of the crank to the other. They don't spend as much time trying to make it perfect as they should. They're just trying to turn out stock and make money. Not knocking these guys in particular, just shops like that in general.

 

[smokey]

Actually those are good prices once you figure in the parts and time.

 

[Turtle400]

the prices i have found for prebuilt long blocks is not bad, but i did a prebuilt a few years ago for my boat and the motor was full of rust, on the cam and around the mains and on the bearings. I never ordered another motor from
pep boys again.

I think i have found what made the motor quit running. I found a big hole in the top of the gas tank ( Rusted Out ) and we had lots of rain and i think it filled the tank up with water. and me trying to keep the truck running to get home i might of pushed things a little to hard.

 

[G.O. Stang]

the prices i have found for prebuilt long blocks is not bad, but i did a prebuilt a few years ago for my boat and the motor was full of rust, on the cam and around the mains and on the bearings. I never ordered another motor from
pep boys again.

I think i have found what made the motor quit running. I found a big hole in the top of the gas tank ( Rusted Out ) and we had lots of rain and i think it filled the tank up with water. and me trying to keep the truck running to get home i might of pushed things a little to hard.

Water in the gas won't really damage anything unless it sits in the cylinder long enough to corrode something. It'll just not let the gas and air ignite and the truck won't run. Draining the water and running some good gas though would normally fix it. Now, if say a water jacket was cracked or somehow enough water got into the oil, that could cause things to seize. Is the hole in the gas tank right in the middle? Like where the fuel evap. line would have gone?

 

[Alvin in AZ]

-> "Should i change my plans {?}" <-
Yes. :/

You should change your friggin pants. xD
...at least once a week if you work outside.
...every-day if you work -inside- because the gAys and gals that also work
-inside- will make fun of you if you don't.

Uhhh... what was the question again? :/

Oh yeah... water in the gas tank will stop you dead in your tracks. BTDT xD

The -->only<-- time I ever had to have a -Ford- company truck hauled-in
-because-it-wouldn't-run-... is because of water in the gas. No kidding.

Hmmm... Uhhhh... Yep.
It too was a Dent Side!
(had to think of the year because it had a utility bed)

Lots of times and lots of different reasons for the Chevy company trucks
to be hauled-in. LOL What a piece of crap they are.

Alvin in AZ can remember '77 better than yesterday :/
ps- x2 what Stang said.
But you need to remove the carburetor and dump it, etc.
And do "whatever" so {you} water won't get -back- -into- the carburetor.