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Popping Sound Please Help Me!!!!!!!

yes its OBD1, you don't need a scanner to read the codes with OBD1. You can use a test light or a multi meter to read your codes, its pretty easy.


Basically you hook up a test light or meter to the port, then use a jumper to ground out the appropriate port and it should start flashing.
selftestconnector3.jpg


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Yeah unfortunately I don't have a test light, or analog meter. I have a digital, and I did the hook up, but I was unable to decipher the flashes that way. So I found a pretty nice reader on amazon INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader for this truck for just over $25 and it is arriving today. I made a mistake on the delivery day, so it is coming today, and I will post what it says. I am hoping someone will be able to tell me what to check or change when I get the codes. Thanks for the info though, I wish I had a test light, but this should be even easier for me, because I am not good at the counting flashes and then it does some other flashes to go to memory flashes and I was getting really confused with it. Plus being digital, I could not tell when it was a flash code, or pulse, or what.
 
ok so I ran the test, and I got the following codes.
Engine off, Key on
23, 10, 14, 51, 63, 13.
23 TPS out of range
10 Nothing
14 Ignition Profile Pickup (PIP) circuit Failure
51 ECT Sensor out of range
63 TPS Circuit fail
13 RPM Idle out of range idle to low

Just want to say I have ran the truck with these sensors disconnected for testing purposes, I don't know if that caused some of these codes. If someone could tell me what these mean, I would greatly appreciate it.

Engine Running
23 TPS Out of range
41 Hego Ho2s Sensor Voltage Low System Lean
Then I was supposed to hit the throttle, but I did not know that so the test was ended at this point.
 

jebadiah04

Rooster Snorkler
849
27
Id start with that TPS sensor. That is probably causing the RPM idle range code. not sure about the PIP. Ive heard of guys having those go bad, but ive never tinkered with the pip sensor before.
 

jebadiah04

Rooster Snorkler
849
27
I also understand how difficult a digital meter is to test those with. Tried that before, it can be done, but its a pain.
 

jebadiah04

Rooster Snorkler
849
27
No prob, there might be a way to test those sensors, do you have an OHM meter? (digital multi meter)
 
I do have a digital meter. I was going to try testing it today. I was looking under the cap and rotor yesterday, and there was a small broken piece of metal in there. I replaced the cap, rotor, and coil, and it did not help. I really looked because of the (pip) code. See a long time ago I was changing the cap, and one of the bolts broke. So I used a torch to try to heat the broken bolt, and I heated the pick up coil in the distributor, and a part of the long plastic part got blistered and browned. I don't know if it damaged it or not, but the confusing part of this whole thing is that before I rebuilt the carb, it had a nice high idle with the adjusting screw only half way in. Once I rebuilt the carb, the idle went really low to where now I have the adjusting screw all the way in, and it is still a really low idle around 300 rpms if im lucky. It is running great while it is cold, and if I close the choke about half way when it is warmed and running crappy, closing it half way makes the engine smooth out and the idle goes up. This is leading me to believe there is a vacuum leak but I cannot find one at all. Ive checked everything including taking off the egr and cleaning it. Even one of the codes is saying i'm running lean. I don't know. I love this truck so much, but I don't know what to do anymore. I have invested thousands in the past 2 years and I just cant figure this out. I have good compression, good looking plugs, and only 63000 miles. Anyway, sorry for venting, im just going crazy with this damn truck!
 
I was testing the tps and no matter how I put the wires for testing it is staying at 5 volts. No changes when I open the throttle. I am thinking that means it is bad, but also I was wondering what the PIP means. Does anyone know?
 
Well I screwed up. I took the carb off today to try to see if I had the adjustments correct and upon bolting it back together, I stripped a bolt. Now gas is pouring out of the bowl vent, and leaking out of the upper gasket so I guess its time to buy a new carb from rock auto. It seems the carb from them comes with a new tps, and mixture solenoid also, so if either one of those were the problem that will address it.
 

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