Parking Brake

[Dave W]

Been a l-o-o-ong time since I've been on here. Probably just ran out of time to 'puter putter, but I'm going to try to get back 'in touch' with an opening question.

Rear brakes on my F350 - replacing the rotors, pads and calipers. Not too bad a job, just need a few tools and a BFH. That is until you find that the parking brake backing plate is rotted. I have a new set from Rock Auto - but that cable needs to be removed and according to the crummy Chilton's manual someone gave me a few years ago, it should be easy. It isn't, or at least I don't think so. Has anyone ever done one of these. It's basically a cable replacement instruction, but no joy from what I've been doing. Anything before 2005 wont apply as the design changed

Thanks,

 

[blacksnapon]

lemme look!

 

[blacksnapon]

cable removal

Removal and Installation

All vehicles


Release the tension on the rear parking brake. For additional information, refer to Parking Brake Cable Tension Release in this section.
Disconnect the RH cable from the LH conduit equalizer, then disconnect the LH cable from the front cable.

Remove the 2 wire form bracket bolts from the frame rail and position the cable and conduit aside.
To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
F-250 and F-350 vehicles


NOTE: The parking brake cable and conduit must be routed to the outside of the leaf spring assembly.

Remove the LH parking brake-to-spring U-bolt plate bolt from the LH spring bracket.
To install, tighten to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).
All vehicles


Release the parking brake cable from the LH bracket assembly.

Rotate the parking brake cable 90 degrees to release it from the parking brake actuating lever and remove the cable.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

[blacksnapon]

the backing plate is pretty much remove brake shoes, then unbolt from axle assembly.

 

[Dave W]

Removal and Installation

All vehicles


Release the tension on the rear parking brake. For additional information, refer to Parking Brake Cable Tension Release in this section.
Disconnect the RH cable from the LH conduit equalizer, then disconnect the LH cable from the front cable.

Remove the 2 wire form bracket bolts from the frame rail and position the cable and conduit aside.
To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
F-250 and F-350 vehicles


NOTE: The parking brake cable and conduit must be routed to the outside of the leaf spring assembly.

Remove the LH parking brake-to-spring U-bolt plate bolt from the LH spring bracket.
To install, tighten to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).
All vehicles


Release the parking brake cable from the LH bracket assembly.

Rotate the parking brake cable 90 degrees to release it from the parking brake actuating lever and remove the cable.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Thanks for the good write up -

This is where I run into my problem "Parking Brake Cable Tension Release". The Chilton says pull down on the intermediate cable, insert a steel pin through one of the holes in the pedal operated parking brake sector to keep it from rotating back. Unless I'm missing something - it isn't working or their instruction is incomplete.

I'm about 10 minutes from getting my bolt cutter out and 'having my way" with that cable and ordering a replacement from Rock (does my frustration show - heck, I always like working on my truck at 30 degrees and less

 

[Dave W]

the backing plate is pretty much remove brake shoes, then unbolt from axle assembly.

I'm trying to remove as an assembly take to my warm inside shop then reassemble all of the new pieces using one as a guide to ensure all of the bit and pieces are in their right place. Both are loose as an assembly but the #$%@ cable just wont come off

 

[Dave W]

I'm trying to remove as an assembly take to my warm inside shop then reassemble all of the new pieces using one as a guide to ensure all of the bit and pieces are in their right place. Both are loose as an assembly but the #$%@ cable just wont come off

Found my problem - rust!!! Had to cut the intermediate cable to rear cable connector - off it came.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Affectionately known as a 'rust weld.'

Ryan

 

[blacksnapon]

hope this helps

 

[Dave W]

Now that make some sense.

To anyone else that may read this in the future, i.e. Googled it, the Chilton fitzall manual doesn't.

Now - if there had been a magic way to make the rust disappear besides using a cut off wheel, but my living in the rust belt of Upstate NY makes sure there is always some

Thanks again for the help

 

[Dave W]

Oh my oh my !!! This has become a project and then some. Left side is complete, just waiting to have the system bled. I was also able to "save" the seal. The expansion spring stayed in place and there was no apparent damage. The right side - the seal was fine - that is until I had to pull the hub off again to put some grease on the spindle as just a bit of protectant. That @#$% expansion spring in the seal came out and they don't reinstall. But, this did prove to be a 'blessing in disguise' as the bearing has 5-6 rollers with dark marks like burns, one has a flat area and a another has a chip. I'm guessing that somewhere along the way, the original owner had a problem though I did buy the truck, less then a year old from a Ford dealer and nothing on the OASIS beyond a couple of lights.

What makes this a real downer - not a bearing in sight locally and the local Ford dealers wants my first born grandchild in exchange for that seal. Another $56 sent off to Rock Auto for the 2C3Z1177AB seal and the Timken NP114036/NP064306 that I removed.

Sorry if this seems like a whiny rant, it isn't - just a statement of frustration/fact. Glad I don't need it as a daily driver though

Here are some good specs for others though, gathered from other sites and some research:

Tie Rod End Inner, castellated nut....................90 Nm
Tie Rod End Inner, Sleeve Clamp Bolts................55 Nm
Drag link to pitman arm nut.................148 ft-lb
Inner & outer tie-rod end nuts................85 ft-lb
Track bar bracket to frame.....................129 ft-lb
Track bar to track bar bracket bolt............406 ft-lb
Track bar to axle nut................................... 185 ft-lb
Radius arm to axle bolts, and bracket nut.........222 ft-lb
Pinion bearing preload..................................10-20 in-lb
Pinion nut............................................... ..220-280 ft-lb
Ring gear bolts............................................1 20-140 ft-lb
Bearing cap bolts.........................................120-135 ft-lb
Steel Differential cover bolts....................................30-40 ft-lb
Cast aluminum differential cover bolts......................... 24 ft-lb
Wheel lug nuts..........................................120-165 ft-lb
Differential filler plug.............................................1 8 ft-lb
Oil filter cap............................................... ...14 ft-lbs
Brakes, disc, front brake caliper pin bolts (2)......................42 ft-lb
Brakes, disc, rear brake caliper pin bolts (2)......................27 ft-lb
Brakes, front disc brake caliper anchor plate bolts (2)...........166 ft-lb
Brakes, rear disc brake caliper anchor plate bolts (2)......128 ft-lb
Brakes, Caliper Bleeder Screw................................13-18 ft-lb
Cross member Bolts............................................. ....70 Nm
Driveshaft to transfer case bolts..................................111 Nm
Flex Plate Inspection Cover......................................20 Nm
Master Cylinder Outlet Tube Fittings.........................19 ft-lb
Shock Absorber (front)......................................76 ft-lb
Shock Absorber (rear).....................................46 ft-lb
Stabilizer Bar Link Bolts.........................................85 ft-lb
Starter Mounting Bolts......................................
Thermostat Housing.......................................
Torque Converter Drain Plug .............................12 Nm
Torque converter retaining nuts............................35 Nm
Transfer Case Bolts...........................................31 Nm
Transfer Case, fill/drain plugs...............................27 Nm
Transmission Filler tube bolt..........................10-13 Nm
Transmission mount-to-cross member nuts...........94 Nm
Transmission, Auto, Drain Plug....................25 Nm
Transmission, Auto, Pan Bolts (20)............11 ft-lb
Transmission-to-engine bolts................61 Nm
Water Pump Bolts...........................18 ft-lb
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Nuts (4).........135 ft-lb
Power steering pressure hose.......................24 ft-lb
Power steering pump mounting nuts......................41 ft-lb

No diesel specifics though and will need to use a convertor to translate some from nm to lb. ft.

 

[Dave W]

Made up a couple tools to install the bearing cup then the seal:

 

[Dave W]

Final "analysis"

I finished the brake job mid last week(Feb 7th) and am very happy with what I did. The brakes work well, and the parking brake is as ho hum as it ever was, but does hold and do what it was intended to do - it is NOT an emergency brake.

This is a list and what I paid for each part, most of which were purchased from Rock Auto:

Hawk rear pads ------ HB528Y.710LTS $81.00 from Hoerr
Centric Rotors ------- 121.65113 $63.79 ea/127.58
Centric Calipers ------ 141.65524 $49.79 ea/99.58 (remanufactured)
Motorcraft seal - BRS116/2C3Z1177AB $21.79
National Seal --------- 370247A $29.00 (Auto Zone - my bad!!)
Dorman Backing Plates - 924212 $46.79 pair
Dorman BP Hardware --- HW7334 $18.73
National cone ---------- NP114036 $12.69
National race ---------- NP064306 $7.82
Quart Valvoline DOT3/4 brake fluid $8.00 (NAPA)

Total = $452.98 and a heckuva lot less then my local Ford shop or even the local garage would have been

This list does not include shipping or core charges for the calipers. In my case shipping wasn't but a very small amount additional then NY sales tax would have been.

A couple of things to consider - Ford really likes to use the blue Loc-Tite which makes disassembly tough. I cleaned it all off and the fasteners went back together easily without that stuff. Rust can weld the parking brake cables in the connector - NAPA sells a useable replacement for about $3. Then to pull the cable to its limits so you can lock the sector, a comealong works much better then one person hanging on to the cable for dear life while a second tries to find the hole to put a drill bit in to hold it for disassembly. And last, the National seal is EXACTLY like the Motorcraft and from Rock Auto, much less expensive.

My home made tools - they worked very well

Next project - spark plugs - and I already have the Lisle broken plug extractor tool and hope I wont need it