Loss of power

[Schock00]

Yeah so, I start my truck up after how ever long I think it was like 2 weeks, starts fine and I decide well hey lets for a little cruise so I put it in drive put the throttle down about 1/4th everythings fine put it down to about 3/4ths get to about 3 thousand rpm and it feels like the truck looses power? Any ideas?

 

[89frankenford]

hmm is there any check engine light on? and have you scanned for any engine codes? just throwing that out there. could be a bad TPS sensor but dont go buy one just yet. im kinda really tired right now. im sure someone thats a lot more awake then me can answer right now till tomorrow

 

[Skandocious]

If it's that noticeable, and it's being caused by a bad sensor, it has probably stored a trouble code. That'd be the first place I'd look.

How old is the fuel? When's the last time it had a tuneup?

 

[Schock00]

hmm is there any check engine light on? and have you scanned for any engine codes? just throwing that out there. could be a bad TPS sensor but dont go buy one just yet. im kinda really tired right now. im sure someone thats a lot more awake then me can answer right now till tomorrow

Nope no check engine lights or anything but I'm thinking that it might just need a tune up new spark plugs and wires and what not but I dono if that would effect the power..and I have no device that can cheak codes.

 

[Schock00]

If it's that noticeable, and it's being caused by a bad sensor, it has probably stored a trouble code. That'd be the first place I'd look.

How old is the fuel? When's the last time it had a tuneup?

Oh the fuel is pretty new but the tuneup department..Not for awhile Old owner was an idiot with the truck.

 

[Skandocious]

Nope no check engine lights or anything but I'm thinking that it might just need a tune up new spark plugs and wires and what not but I dono if that would effect the power..and I have no device that can cheak codes.

No check engine light doesn't necessarily mean you haven't thrown a code-- not all codes will light up the CEL.

And yes old spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter/air filter/etc can definitely cause loss of power. Those are all good examples of tuneup parts.

Most auto parts stores will read your codes for you (thought I heard some recently stopped doing that). The OBD-I code readers can be had for as little as $30 at parts stores.

 

[NeXtras]

on the lines of the same problem.. when i get on mine, it feels like it lags til about 2500-3000 rpm then it gets like a "boost" if you will.. normal?

 

[Schock00]

on the lines of the same problem.. when i get on mine, it feels like it lags til about 2500-3000 rpm then it gets like a "boost" if you will.. normal?

I dont think so..When my truck is running good it has power all the way through the rpms until like 4,000 but it shifts at like 4,500...

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Like Chris said, the Ford OBD-I code readers are cheap. I got my for $20 at O'Reilly's. You'll figure out which sensor went sour, or if it's storing any other codes you may not even know about!

Ryan

 

[91xltlariat]

To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.

1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don�t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.

1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you�ll want to use the continuity setting.
b) If you are using an analog voltmeter you�ll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you�ll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

How To Count “Check Engine” Light Blinks

When the “Check Engine” light blinks during the test you will get several different blinks, the separation time between blinks is used to indicate what information is being displayed.

Turn key to RUN.
You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
The fuel pumps will stop and the EEC will now begin giving codes.
You may catch a brief flickering of the light. This is a rapid code read that is used by the code readers you can purchase. Do not worry all those rapid flashes you just say flicker buy will now be given at a slower pace of �, 2, & 4 second pauses.
First digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
2 second pause
Second digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
4 second pause
Next KOEO code
Once all KOEO codes are read the EEC will repeat them
6 second pause
Single Separator Blink (this indicates the change from KOEO codes to CM codes)
6 second pause
Codes from Continues Memory (uses same 1/2, 2, and 4 second timing as KOEO codes and also repeats them)
If nothing has been recorded by the EEC since last battery disconnect you will see:

Blink - 2 sec - blink - 4 sec - blink - 2 sec - blink - 6 sec - blink - 6 sec - blink - 2 sec - blink - 4 sec - blink - 2 sec � blink

This translates into 11-11 current condition (KOEO) and 11-11 in the continues memory (CM); or SYSTEMPASS

This may seem hard to count; recommendation is to record codes with slashes, and to lump them all together. Sort them out into numerical codes later. Here is an example of this:

This would give you codes; 41, 83, 14 & 18. If you miss some of the codes or feel you are counting wrong continue to count the remaining codes for practice and to compare to the next code test. When finished simply turn the key to OFF wait 15 seconds then back to RUN. The codes will be presented again.