General Dentside Discussion V2

[Mil1ion]

LuCUSS and I spent numnerous years together working on Austins,Hillmans,Triumphs,MG's in the 60's

Sometime I won, somethimes Lucas won

 

[m78]

I bought a ford truck accessories brochure for the generation 6 ford trucks.
Wish I could order some of - I mean all of them.

 

[LEB Ben]

Bronco started to idle really crappy last night, started and idled really crappy this morning...I chalked it up improperly set choke and the temp. At lunch same thing. Pop the hood and some how, it spit the front intake seal...piss me off.

 

[UNRULEE]

Bronco started to idle really crappy last night, started and idled really crappy this morning...I chalked it up improperly set choke and the temp. At lunch same thing. Pop the hood and some how, it spit the front intake seal...piss me off.

Intake seal? You know that your supposed to trash those and use rtv on both ends.........right?

 

[LEB Ben]

^^^No, I didn't know that...I always used the seal with a liberal amount of RTV black.

 

[UNRULEE]

Ahha, rtv and rubber seals are a bad combo. Makes the rubber gaskets extremely slippery, they want to push out when you tighten the intake down. I just use a nice thick bead of rtv on each end of the lifter valley, has yet to leak.

 

[LEB Ben]

Alright...I've never had an issue before, but you haven't led me astray yet...so I'll do that sometime this weekend.

 

[bucks77ford]

Intake seal? You know that your supposed to trash those and use rtv on both ends.........right?

Never a dull moment with these trucks/broncos is there Ben.

I've come to learn that, not by experience but seeing my brother who is a mechanic do it all the time and I've always wondered why and the reason you gave below is right and also many gaskets just plain out suck.

On a different note, I'm still having rear main seal problems. I installed a brand new rear main seal a little while ago and frickin same thing, rear main seal leak. I'm going to try again at some point and if a 3rd don't work then I'm going to pull my engine and see what the hell is going on. I can't stand leaks and it's driving me crazy.

 

[UNRULEE]

Just make sure that you use enough of it, it's hard to over do the amount..........and thanks!

 

[UNRULEE]

On a different note, I'm still having rear main seal problems. I installed a brand new rear main seal a little while ago and frickin same thing, rear main seal leak. I'm going to try again at some point and if a 3rd don't work then I'm going to pull my engine and see what the hell is going on. I can't stand leaks and it's driving me crazy.

I know your pain, I did the rear main on my 400 4 years ago and it never sealed, and is getting progressivly worse.

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks Lee...and yeah Buck, never a dull moment. This Bronco has definitely been a learning experience. I've done quite a few firsts with it. Can't decide if I'm gonna try and tackle a front axle rebuild or a tranny rebuild on it next. Intimidated by the tranny rebuild, and I'm still holding out on a D60/D70 combo...and there's always the issue of cash flow too.

 

[BKW]

Dennis, Bill et.al. what's up with that list? My half of the '75 C700 has got a 361FT 4V. Did they add that in '75? (September of '74)

Is that list from FoMoCo? No, it's not, where Dennis got it, I haven't a clue.

VIN engine code E: 1974/75 361 2V / 1975/76 361 2V X/D (U-Haul only) / 1976/78 361 4V

Source: 1973/79 Ford Heavy Truck Parts Catalog (gen-u-ine Ford on microfiche).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ben: New replacement parts for Bendix Power Assist P/S are slim and none. Everything is obsolete from Ford including the seal kits.

Ditto Garrison Power Assist P/S, that was not only used on 1973 & 1974 F250 4WD's (1974: before T80,001), but on 1973/77 F100/150 4WD's.

Some of the F100/150 Garrison P/S parts are the same as F250's, some are not.

And...the 1973/79 Ford LIGHT Truck Parts Catalog is available on CD from hipoparts.com for about 25 bucks. This is the same version Dennis is using, so why in heck don't you get a copy?

Then you won't have to ask Dennis if it's OK to use that image (I almost fell oughtta my chair from laughing when I read that jazz).

And...the 1973/79 Ford Passenger Car Parts Catalog is also available on a CD from hipoparts.com. You'll need this too, because...this is where 1973/79 Bronco parts are listed.

Bronco's didn't appear in the truck parts catalog until 1980.

 

[LEB Ben]

^^^Thanks Bill. I'm pretty sure we've talked a couple times about any and all Bendix stuff still available. You put me in contact with Green Sales for a couple of things involving the ball stud. As for the hipo cd's...you're right, I need to pick them up.

 

[Fordzilla80]

As for the hipo cd's...you're right, I need to pick them up.

We have something in common Ben, Bill told me earlier on teh other forum that I need to get the hipo cd for the 80-89 Light trucks.

That's probably the 18th time he's told me to get it too. It's only $21 for me. I need to save a dollar a day in a special place, and in 30 days I should have enough for the CD without spending it on something else.

 

[Mil1ion]

THat image above is from the 73-74 Ford Truck Shop Manuals
I have a few of them

 

[Mil1ion]

Is that list from FoMoCo? No, it's not, where Dennis got it, I haven't a clue.

Yes Bill it is Ford

Ford Truck Shop Manuals have all these codes listed

 

[Mil1ion]

From the 1975 Ford Shop Manual

 

[LEB Ben]

We have something in common Ben, Bill told me earlier on teh other forum that I need to get the hipo cd for the 80-89 Light trucks.

That's probably the 18th time he's told me to get it too. It's only $21 for me. I need to save a dollar a day in a special place, and in 30 days I should have enough for the CD without spending it on something else.

Yeah...pretty sure he's instructed me to pick up the cd's a time or two million.

THat image above is from the 73-74 Ford Truck Shop Manuals
I have a few of them

I didn't know where it came from, so I figured better safe than sorry. I got it worked out though, the guy ended up finding his camera and sent me pics. I'll be getting a pretty mint system for $40 shipped to my door.

 

[LEB Ben]

Well...it looks like ball joints are imminent on the Bronco. Noticed the front end popping a little yesterday...and a little more today. And when I ehaded out to lunch, I noticed the front tires were sitting like this:

l /


Anyway, I think I'll opt for non-greasable moogs. But I have a question on installing ball joints. Some guys say you need the ball joint press...others say just freeze and they'll drop in, others say use a block of wood and a BFH. Opinions???????

 

[Alvin in AZ]

Well...it looks like ball joints are imminent on the Bronco.
Noticed the front end popping a little yesterday...and a little more today.
And when I headed out to lunch, I noticed the front tires were sitting like this:

l /

Anyway, I think I'll opt for non-greasable moogs. But I have a question on
installing ball joints. Some guys say you need the ball joint press...others
say just freeze and they'll drop in, others say use a block of wood and a BFH.
Opinions???????

Hadn't needed to do this yet but read about getting 'em cold and that is
for sure the way to go. Also read about guys ending up with a loose hole
from hammering 'em in and out so much.

The freezer compartment on my refrigerator is about -5F.

I've used it for lots of stuff and the trickiest was putting an air cooled VW
crank in there and warming up the cam gear until it smokes a little (just oil
cooking off) and quick, grabbing out the crank and dropping the gear on.

Sometimes it didn't go all the way down but at least it was most-of-the
way down and was now lined up nice and straight ready for hammering.

You got the source of refrigeration and you know the properties of the
material and know it can't hurt, might as well use the cold-method. Huh?

-------------

There's another way to stop the clunk, you know it? LOL

Beat the crap out of the ball joint's lid to re-snug it up inside.

Many times the loose ball joint or tie rod end has to be removed to use the
hammer mechanic method but it is cheap tho. Remove the zerk because
that's the part you need to beat down. Works great on dune buggies and
quads.

Alvin in AZ