mrxlh
Oilfield Trash
The following has been comprised from approx 4 years of driving/reading/discussing the 6.0l
1. This is the most important, IT IS NOT A 7.3L, forget applying many of the same theories or old adages.
2. Fuel quality will cause more drivability issues quicker and without warning than anything else. Don't be so quick to panic, add a double dose of quality fuel additive and check your water seperator. If need be, change filters if you don't like whats come out of the seperator. As quick as possible, add better fuel to the tank to dilute the bad fuel.
2a. Fuel filters, use only Motorcraft or IH Period, change every 15K max, earlier if you suspect you got some bad fuel.
2b. Use a quality fuel additive every tank full. You wont have any fuel quality issues. It litterally only adds a few cents per gallon to use it every tank, what does and injector cost out of warranty?
3. Oil....Change it at 5k, there have been numerous non documented (techs trying things) cases where drivability issues have been noticed around the 4500-5500 mile mark, changing the oil helped.
3a. Use only racor made oil filter, they are the only ones that work properly. Currently the racor filter is available in the following boxes Motorcraft, Fram, and IH. All 3 are identicle, the price is not, shop wisely.
3b. Oil brand has been beat to death, use what you like and make sure it is API certified CI-4+ or CJ-4. I will mention that Rotella T 15W40 and Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 have been "suspected" to be related to excessive injector sticktion. IF you are currently using this oil and having no problems, great, don't shoot the messenger.
4. The stock air filter and air box, is one of the many things Ford got right on this truck. Leave it alone, it flows plenty enough to support a 500HP platform. In dusty conditions change at 15K, normal conditions 30K.
5.The transmission (torqshift) is absoultly the best automatic Ford ever produced. 30k service interval change the external filter as well. Use only Mercon SP, yeah its expensive, but you had $40k to buy the truck right? Put the right fluid in it.
6. Every dealer is different on what they allow as far as warranty and mods. Ask before you install them.
7. These trucks come with an Arkansas Warranty when Modded. "If it breaks in half, both pieces are still yours". Don't come crying, we don't care, you were warned.
8. If you do plan on modding it, get the new studs and better gaskets. Have the heads decked (IH has had some problems with the machining of the heads and blocks) and at least the block deck checked if not decked as well.
9. No matter what you like, most times Motorcraft parts are just darned hard to beat. Ford also has a hard time finding fault with oem parts when something does break.
I am sure others will have some to add to this.
1. This is the most important, IT IS NOT A 7.3L, forget applying many of the same theories or old adages.
2. Fuel quality will cause more drivability issues quicker and without warning than anything else. Don't be so quick to panic, add a double dose of quality fuel additive and check your water seperator. If need be, change filters if you don't like whats come out of the seperator. As quick as possible, add better fuel to the tank to dilute the bad fuel.
2a. Fuel filters, use only Motorcraft or IH Period, change every 15K max, earlier if you suspect you got some bad fuel.
2b. Use a quality fuel additive every tank full. You wont have any fuel quality issues. It litterally only adds a few cents per gallon to use it every tank, what does and injector cost out of warranty?
3. Oil....Change it at 5k, there have been numerous non documented (techs trying things) cases where drivability issues have been noticed around the 4500-5500 mile mark, changing the oil helped.
3a. Use only racor made oil filter, they are the only ones that work properly. Currently the racor filter is available in the following boxes Motorcraft, Fram, and IH. All 3 are identicle, the price is not, shop wisely.
3b. Oil brand has been beat to death, use what you like and make sure it is API certified CI-4+ or CJ-4. I will mention that Rotella T 15W40 and Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 have been "suspected" to be related to excessive injector sticktion. IF you are currently using this oil and having no problems, great, don't shoot the messenger.
4. The stock air filter and air box, is one of the many things Ford got right on this truck. Leave it alone, it flows plenty enough to support a 500HP platform. In dusty conditions change at 15K, normal conditions 30K.
5.The transmission (torqshift) is absoultly the best automatic Ford ever produced. 30k service interval change the external filter as well. Use only Mercon SP, yeah its expensive, but you had $40k to buy the truck right? Put the right fluid in it.
6. Every dealer is different on what they allow as far as warranty and mods. Ask before you install them.
7. These trucks come with an Arkansas Warranty when Modded. "If it breaks in half, both pieces are still yours". Don't come crying, we don't care, you were warned.
8. If you do plan on modding it, get the new studs and better gaskets. Have the heads decked (IH has had some problems with the machining of the heads and blocks) and at least the block deck checked if not decked as well.
9. No matter what you like, most times Motorcraft parts are just darned hard to beat. Ford also has a hard time finding fault with oem parts when something does break.
I am sure others will have some to add to this.
