Diagnosis Requested: Thumping

[Alvin in AZ]

Heard a tid bit of advice that I'm gonna try in the next few weeks when
I do ball joints. Before you put the new joints in, freeze em, supposed to
let them slide in a lot easier. Dunno how true it is, but it can't hurt.

Cool one, thanks for posting that.
I'm going to do that next time, it'd be easier on the I-beam, if nothing else!

-----------------------------

There's also another way to do this, "hammer mechanic method" where you
don't change them out you just "fix" the ones you got. Last couple times
I used this method were on 4-wheelers (they call 'em "Quads" now and
tightened up the tie rod ends and ball joints using a hammer. Still took it
apart quite a ways and that's needed most of the time, so it's not like it
saves a lot of work or something, but it can. The idea is for when it makes
sense to use it, not as a total replacement for new ball joints and tie rod
ends.

Sure enough fixes up a 4-wheeler tho, those things get "twitchy" at high
speed (40 mph when they've got a loose tie rod end or loose ball joint.

If the part is badly worn or "beat out" then it's not a good candidate for
hammer mechanic treatment unless it's an un-licensed farm/ranch truck.

BTSeenT ...like 5/16" of play in a pair of ball joints on a VW Bug once.
Those little things looked like they were fixin' to pop out! LOL

Alvin in AZ

 

[RustyCJ]

Hey hey hey...what about me??????????????

Oh No...Now You got Ben Quoting himself.


I have a 79 also that I just did the ball joints( upper and lower ) Its not to difficult. the worst part was convincing the old ball joints that they wanted to come out.
If you have the time before you do this start spraying all the nuts with something like PB Blaster(thats what I used)or the like.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

...start spraying all the nuts with something like PB Blaster...

x2
And a guy named Rusty Siege ought to know huh?

Not rusty in AZ (just a little nutty)

 

[Riotnrrd]

Its not to difficult. the worst part was convincing the old ball joints that they wanted to come out.

Is this what something called a pickle fork is for? A big fork that you smack in to force the ball joints out?

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Itll work for that but its mainly for tie rods.

 

[Riotnrrd]

I got just about everything taken off except the steering knuckle and the ball joints.

Anyone happen to know what the size of the top and bottom balljoint nuts are? I got a 1 1/4 SAE socket for the top castle nut and it appears to be just a hair too small for the nut. The bottom nut I havent tried but its a different type (standard nut?) and a bit smaller.

I'm also having a devil of a time finding good, large sockets. Had been looking for 1 to 1 1/2 SAE in 1/2 inch drive... not a lot out there! Any recommendations?

 

[Alvin in AZ]

Riotnrrd wrote:
>Anyone happen to know what the size of the top and bottom balljoint
>nuts are?

Doggonit that's right down my alley to know silly stuff like that! LOL
But in this case I haven't worked on a dent with ball joints before. :/
I guess it's 4wd or something?

>I got a 1 1/4 SAE socket for the top castle nut and it appears to be just a
>hair too small for the nut. The bottom nut I havent tried but its a different
>type (standard nut?) and a bit smaller.

If it's bigger than 1+1/4" (~32mm) measure it or guess?
Is it the same size as the pitman arm nut? P.A.N.=1+5/16" (= ~33+1/3mm)
Next size up is 1+3/8" (35mm) and is a real odd ball in my experience. YMMV

I added the metric crap because of 1+3/16" wrenches were tough to get
there for a while and so I've got a couple 30mm ones.
1+3/16" = ~30+1/8mm

>I'm also having a devil of a time finding good, large sockets. Had been
>looking for 1 to 1 1/2 SAE in 1/2 inch drive... not a lot out there!
>Any recommendations?

I tend to use boxed-end and combination wrenches in the size we're talking
about here. Bigger than 1+1/2" then I tend to use combination wrenches
-and- combination wrenches that's been cut in half. LOL

Almost all my tools I got -used-!
The old ones tend to be the good ones, no kidding on that.

Retired dumb, heat-stroked railroader in AZ
ps- Anybody that owns farm-like equipment will have what you need.
pps- That's about all I use my bigger wrenches on anymore is when I help
my cowboy buddies work on their dam and road building equipment.
ppps-
1+7/16" = 36mm (VW Bug axle nut
1+1/2" = 38mm (ball hitch nut) If your's ain't that big -throw it away-! (or use it on a Quad?)
1+5/8" = 41mm
1+11/16" = 43mm
1+3/4" = 45mm (track nut
1+13/16" = 46mm (VW Bus axle nut

 

[Mil1ion]

Large sockets.

Inquire about Rent-a tool at several parts places.

Thumping !

How about a torn sidewall belt in one of the tires ?

 

[RustyCJ]

I got just about everything taken off except the steering knuckle and the ball joints.

Anyone happen to know what the size of the top and bottom balljoint nuts are? I got a 1 1/4 SAE socket for the top castle nut and it appears to be just a hair too small for the nut. The bottom nut I havent tried but its a different type (standard nut?) and a bit smaller.

I'm also having a devil of a time finding good, large sockets. Had been looking for 1 to 1 1/2 SAE in 1/2 inch drive... not a lot out there! Any recommendations?

I had the same problem with mine. The local auto parts store didn't have the larger sizes and a trip to sears (craftsman) would take longer so I bought a large Gearwrench(brand) adjustable wrench. The new ball joints were smaller and I had the correct box wrench to put it back together.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

The new ball joints were smaller and I had the correct box wrench to
put it back together.

Cool, but what sizes were they?

Riot, do yourself a big favor and invest in a "General Tools" vernier caliper...
http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Metric-and-English-Vernier-Caliper__722.aspx

Alvin in AZ

 

[LEB Ben]

If you're looking for big sockets...try your local Tractor Supply store. IIRC, I've seen up to 3" sockets there, can't recall the largest for a 1/2" drive though. But I'm with Alvin, when I start going that big, I prefer box ends and I only cut mine in half if there's an issue of space. As a matter of fact, I just picked up a set of box ends and a set of open ends from Sears. IIRC, they ranged from 7/8-1 5/8". They're a little light for my liking...but they were only $50 a set.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Get a set of 3/4 inch drive stuff and then get an adapter to adapt it down to 1/2 inch drive id just get some harbor frieght ones cause ya probly wont use em very often.

 

[Riotnrrd]

Thanks everyone for the good suggestions

I'll check it out when it stops raining! (no indoor garage... yet)

 

[Alvin in AZ]

I'm with Alvin, when I start going that big, I prefer box ends...

I only cut 'em in half so a cheater pipe will slip over it better.
I've lucked out and found most of the sizes I wanted cut, already cut at
the swap meet. Things like "Mill Room" are vibrator-etched into them.

My most used wrench when I was a signal maintainer was a rusty old
Cornwell, long offset boxed-end with 1+1/8" on one end and 1+1/4" on
the other. The 3/4" bolts holding the power switch machines to the wood
ties were all the time getting loose because the wood would squish. The
nuts for 3/4" bolts come in three sizes but we didn't use the 1+1/16" size
much.

"squish" is a highly technical term.

Heck, I thought I had a picture of that Cornwell boxed-end...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toolbox.jpg
...the boxed-end wrench shown is a Blue-Point 1+5/16" and 1+1/2".
...$5 back in the 70's.
The rusty Cornwell was $2.
The rusty "plow wrench" shown there was $1. (1+1/8" x 1+5/16")
The rusty table leg (tapered) makes a really good cheater pipe.
Thin and lightweight and strong, strong from being work hardened.

Kinda weird I guess but a big part of the reason I like to work on things
is to use my tools.

Alvin in AZ

 

[Riotnrrd]

Just following up on this post with a happy ending.

I ended up replacing the ball joints, wheel bearings, and a ujoint on one of the front axles that had gone bad. In between the broken ujoint and balljoint I think I found my problem!

Drove it around a little, and it was rock solid, no wobble seen at any speed. I have finished up with some new tires, and MAN it rides SWEET now!

Couple of minor issues to tackle yet (emergency brakes, minor power steering leak), but my truck is ON THE ROAD.

Thanks so much for those that offered advice, and I'll be seeing you!