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Cold weather means stiff brakes

SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,068
547
Montana
If you pop the check valve out of the booster (it's just a rubber grommet that it pops into - check valve comes right out) while the engine is running you should have a chitload of vacuum on it. if not, the check valve is stuck...
 

Mil1ion

Still Da Man
MY guess is it's the BPPV causing the problem

They seize up from moisture and rust.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
If you pop the check valve out of the booster (it's just a rubber grommet that it pops into - check valve comes right out) while the engine is running you should have a chitload of vacuum on it. if not, the check valve is stuck...

Check! Got a chitload of vacuum through the checkvalve when I pulled it off. Won't be able to get vacuum hose until next Friday - 120 miles to the parts store. :headbang:
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
i have experienced hardened or glazed brake pads or shoes,that will also give this effect.sometimes after they get wet or moister sets in,the heat of braking or long distance driving will harden them.just an fyi.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Wouldn't the hardened or glazed shoes be a constant problem though? The disc pads and the brake drums are only about a year old, with no long distance driving or hard braking during that time. I changed the pads/shoes because I split one of the front hubs. Since I was already in there, I changed the brakes on all 4 wheels.
 
Wouldn't the hardened or glazed shoes be a constant problem though? The disc pads and the brake drums are only about a year old, with no long distance driving or hard braking during that time. I changed the pads/shoes because I split one of the front hubs. Since I was already in there, I changed the brakes on all 4 wheels.

Yes your right on that , glazed brakes give that bad feeling that no matter how hard you push the brake pedal, the pads just don't seem to grab on the rotor. It's like when you do water crossings and the brakes don't grab.
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
well it was just a thought on my part,& it would be constant as stated,since they are all new,i would be looking at the booster,if this persits after changing the vaccum lines.for a porportioning valve to be bad,you will have a variance or little pressure at the wheels when you bleed the brakes.start at the master cyl & see if the pressure is correct there first.
 
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Mil1ion

Still Da Man
You would need a pressure gauge to measure the hydraulic pressure coming to the calipers. THis is something you can't eyeball. You have to habe a gauge to measure psi
 

BuzzGun79

Nov.TOTM 2012 / 2012 TOTY
2,388
55
Dennis in theory you are correct on the use of a pressure guage to check for a faulty porportioning valve..through my experiences i have found faulty valves by cracking the bleeder loose & a trickel of fluid comes out,not a shooting stream when the pedal is pushed or system pressurized.it is a case by case senerio tho.
 
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fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Replaced all the vacuum tubing in the truck today(except the one that goes through the firewall to the defroster flap. That vacuum reservoir under the driver's front fenderwell is a pain in the derriere. Hopefully, I'll have to wait until next winter to see if the problem is solved. smilieFordlogo
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North
Winter ain't over yet Doug :D
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
A VERY late update. Temps got down into the mid-20's the other night. I left for work at 0500 and the brakes were not stiff. I'll update when the temps drop below -18 deg C. smilietease I also replaced the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
 
A VERY late update. Temps got down into the mid-20's the other night. I left for work at 0500 and the brakes were not stiff. I'll update when the temps drop below -18 deg C. smilietease I also replaced the brake fluid in the master cylinder.

I'm getting cold just reading your post Doug! Geez....let's not rush this change in the season.....:eek:
 

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