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Codes 211 & 335

emtzach

i get paid to do this
yeah the last vehicle i had with a distributor was a stang and i could keep it timed pulled out the distributer and it had some play said f it and finished off the msd ignition. had everything else msd why not the distributor too. its only money right?
 
The diagram above does not show the bushing and that is what wears out in a distributor.
Sounds like you have two problems, a bad pip sensors or a wore out distributor and the wrong ICM (TIF).
I would say someone sold you the wrong ICM, a GRAY one and you need to have a BLACK one.



Read the article titled:
DOMESTICALLY SPEAKING
in
http://www.capitolautomotive.com/pdf/cccnewsletter.pdf
All 4 TFI's together http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif
Black Module:
Part # 5U2Z-12A297-D or Motorcraft DY1077
And for the PIP:
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v8_i2_2004.pdf
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v8_i3_2004.pdf
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Very interesting reading Bill-- thank you. I now understand the system a lot better. But going back to what you said-- I don't believe that I've got the wrong ICM because the ICM has never been replaced to my knowledge. I'm going to go down and verify the color but unless the wrong ICM was put in at the factory, I don't think it's a possibility. The other thing is that I've read the codes many times in the past and this PIP code only cropped up fairly recently (and won't go away). After reading those Wells articles I'm thinking more and more that the PIP sensor is the problem. The only strange thing is that my truck always runs great; I never have a no-start problem ever.

Also you mentioned a wore-out bushing in the distributor... That would be the bushing that holds the shaft in the place and keeps it from moving laterally (changing tolerances between the rotor and cap terminals)?? If so, it's funny you mention that because Brad and I were just talking about how "healthy" my distributor is so I went out and took the cap and rotor off and wiggled the shaft- no movement at all, solid as a rock. So I don't think I've got a worn out bushing.

I'm gonna go double check the color of that ICM. Back in a flash.
 

F 150Cobra

"Wild HoRsE" Got Torque?
3,642
104
Aruba
sensors sensor... get a carb :) we only need a screw driver and a vacuum guage for troubleshooting


haha kidding and good luck with the prob buddy
 

95F350XL

Master Junk Tech
Just told u what to do there. Carbs stink, come out here and see hows its like in 18* weather. I hate em, gotta always tune em, clean em out, they gum up, crud up. I like my fuel injection. Always starts, always runs good.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Just to give guys a little update. Drove the truck yesterday and confirmed that it's missing. I thought I felt it the other day but I chalked it up to be bumpy road. Nope-- it's definitely missing, and I'm thinking that it's probably the distributor stator that is causing the PIP code and the missing. Headed down to Napa to get a new stator (pip sensor, pickup coil, whatever you wanna call it) and I'll be taking my distributor apart sometime next week after I get back from San Luis Obispo.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Part in hand! Er, in my lap!

62527758.jpg

72984865.jpg

57423075.jpg
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Replaced the DPFE (EGR pressure feedback sensor) and my EGR code is now gone.

Took the distributor apart and replaced the stator (not fun) and the damned 211 code (PIP circuit failure) is still there. The engine does feel like it's running better-- I couldn't feel the misfire anymore... I'm wondering if the misfire was caused by the bad EGR sensor, cuz I replaced both at roughly the same time. I'm gonna take my ICM down to The Zone today to have it tested. Yes I know the Zone sucks but they are the ONLY parts shop that I could find with equipment capable of testing ICMs... Strange I know.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Both the ICM and the coil tested good at the Zone :headbang: I have no idea where to go from here. My Chilton manual outlines some test I can do with a multimeter to test all of my wiring and such. I'm gonna try to do that tomorrow.

For now-- after idling in the driveway for a while, I'm almost positive that the truck is still missing :headbang: I'll keep you all posted. Let me know if you get an bright ideas.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
My Chilton manual outlines some test I can do with a multimeter to test all of my wiring and such. I'm gonna try to do that tomorrow.
Turns out none of those damned tests apply to my truck. They're all talking about a dist-mounted ICM which I don't have. Mine is remote mounted on the fenders.

Still taking ideas here folks! :headbang:
 

95F350XL

Master Junk Tech
Humm id say id still try the icm.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Forgot to update you guys.

I used my code reader to do a cylinder balance test-- this is where it individually disables each of the fuel injectors one at a time and measure the drop in RPMs. Each disable should have a significant effect on the RPMs; if one does NOT then it can conclude that the cylinder was not contributing 100% in the first place. This test came back good for all cylinders so it seems I'm getting good power from all cylinders.


Also used my code reader to do a "wiggle test" which puts the reader into a kind of watch mode where you can wiggle different electrical connectors under the hood while it watches, and if wiggling anything produces a weird electrical signal then the computer will throw a code to the reader. I wiggled everything and came back with nothing.

Any more ideas? I'm thinking I might try to get an ICM at the junkyard...
 

95F350XL

Master Junk Tech
Just thow a new motor in lol. ICM
 

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