Cam install questions?

[TexasNomad]

Well I've read about installing a cam and I read when you install a high performance cam you need to degree it and check valve to piston clearance but when you install a RV came you don't have to do any thing like that.
I was at a party last night and I struck a conversation with a mechanic and he told me I would be crazy to install a cam by my self I told him about the many many people I've talked to and read their threads on ford forums, and he said they are drive way warriors and they all was end up bringing shops like mine their cars and trucks so unless you want a valve launching out your roof take it to a shop,Well it kinda pissed me off when he dissed the people on this forum that was a little high and mighty way of thinking and I told him I think your a ass.
To tell the truth a cam job is a little intimidating to me,was this guy just trying to scare me in to giving him some business do I have to do all these things like degeeing,valve clearance checking lash after I buy all these extra tools I might as well take it some where, how much would there be in putting a cam in a 302... thanks every one

 

[surewhynot]

I do it myself with no problems. My current truck has a 393w in it. ( a 351w bored .030 over and stroked )

I installed the cam, a mild lunati grind, didn't degree it and have no problems. As far as valve clearance, if you have a high lift, you should check it, but that can be done easy too.

 

[TexasNomad]

I'm not going with any thing with to high of a lift.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-2122&autoview=sku
Just a good ol RV cam.

 

[surewhynot]

Personally, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Just remember to use PLENTY of assembly lube, and run diesel rated oil.

 

[msb71]

Diesel rated oil? explain this sir.

 

[surewhynot]

Diesel rated oil has a higher zinc content than regular gasoline engine rated oil. Zinc is crucial to the proper break in of a flat tappet camshaft.

Here is a pretty good article.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/oil_summary.html

 

[surewhynot]

And by the way, my name is Tony. My Dad's name is Sir.

 

[mrfixit]

And by the way, my name is Tony. My Dad's name is Sir.

I thought your dad's name was "UNKNOWN"

 

[460]

I thought your dad's name was "UNKNOWN"

I use diesel oil in my older engines all the time. Shell Rotella T is available at WalMart and most auto part stores.



.

 

[TexasNomad]

Cool I didn't know that thanks Big Tony.
I did some searching around and found that RP has some very high zddp counts I got this off another site
I just got the Staveley Lab report back on Royal Purple 5W30 XPR Racing Oil (full synthetic). I would imagine that the other viscosities of this particular oil would be comparable. Check it out below:

In parts per million (ppm):

Calcium = 3039

Phosphorus = 1338

Zinc = 1421

Moly = 204

TBN = 10.9

For reference:
Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive
Zinc : Anti-wear additive
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive
TBN (Total Base Number): reserve alkalinity, which controls
acid formation as a result of the cumbustion process

So, with the high levels of zinc/phos and a good amount of moly present, it has excellent anti-wear properties. And with good levels of detergent, and reserve alkalinity, it is also suitable for street machines where normal change intervals would be used. Then combine all that with being the industry leader in oil film strength, and you'd be hard pressed to find a better motor oil. All you have to do is get past the $14.00 per quart that it costs. But at least, it appears that you get what you pay for.
I also found some a lot of Lotus owners saying they use RP during the break in of their cars, so that has to saying some thing if the owners of 200 grand cars use it then I should feel safe using it in a cam job

 

[Fellro]

If you were professionally racing, or really getting specific, dialing the cam in as needed, but for stock to mild modded motors, it isn't a big deal. Never bent a valve from not degreeing a cam, and haven't set foot inside a shop to have my vehicles worked on, oh yeah, except when I worked there...
You get some guys like that, like to try to talk all big, but then, they don't know half as much as they try to portray... degreeing a stock cam is not needed, it is only truly useful for absolute maximization of a motor, and the higher lift applications are where it comes into play. The only way to hammer valves that way is to be improperly timed, not just a few degrees off. He makes it sound like you are timing an overhead cam diesel or something...

 

[surewhynot]

RP has some very high zddp counts I got this off another site
I just got the Staveley Lab report back on Royal Purple 5W30 XPR Racing Oil (full synthetic). I would imagine that the other viscosities of this particular oil would be comparable. Check it out below:

In parts per million (ppm):

Calcium = 3039

Phosphorus = 1338

Zinc = 1421

Moly = 204

TBN = 10.9

For reference:
Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive
Zinc : Anti-wear additive
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive
TBN (Total Base Number): reserve alkalinity, which controls
acid formation as a result of the cumbustion process

So, with the high levels of zinc/phos and a good amount of moly present, it has excellent anti-wear properties. And with good levels of detergent, and reserve alkalinity, it is also suitable for street machines where normal change intervals would be used. Then combine all that with being the industry leader in oil film strength, and you'd be hard pressed to find a better motor oil. All you have to do is get past the $14.00 per quart that it costs. But at least, it appears that you get what you pay for.
I also found some a lot of Lotus owners saying they use RP during the break in of their cars, so that has to saying some thing if the owners of 200 grand cars use it then I should feel safe using it in a cam job

It sounds and looks great but I have also heard that using a synthetic for break in doesn't allow the engine to break in quick enough. I'll have to look around a bit.

 

[john112deere]

I was talking with my uncle back in February about an engine he's building, and he told me that they're taking (or maybe have taken?) the zinc out of diesel oil, too.

For his engine (flat tappet cam) he said he's going to have to buy special "racing" oil now, where he would have been able to use diesel oil a few years ago.

 

[TexasNomad]

It sounds and looks great but I have also heard that using a synthetic for break in doesn't allow the engine to break in quick enough. I'll have to look around a bit.

First off I can't get over your truck it kicks so much @ss, is that a Bay liner your pulling?
I was wondering I know allot of time things get looked over and old school habits and ideas die hard. Have you seen the test done with full syn vs Dino, the damage that is done to bearings and metal under high stress its ghastly, I think the reason break ins take longer is the oil is letting the metal wear smoother and easier I'm no pro that's just my 2cents

 

[TexasNomad]

I was talking with my uncle back in February about an engine he's building, and he told me that they're taking (or maybe have taken?) the zinc out of diesel oil, too.

For his engine (flat tappet cam) he said he's going to have to buy special "racing" oil now, where he would have been able to use diesel oil a few years ago.

I was doing some reading around and read that the good ol Sieg Heil EPA is making a lot of company's drop their zinc levels because its killing penguins you know the same old song and dance with them. Quaker State was I believe in the ranking top 3 in common off the self oils didn't include RP or Torco and Schaeffer's.

 

[surewhynot]

First off I can't get over your truck it kicks so much @ss, is that a Bay liner your pulling?
I was wondering I know allot of time things get looked over and old school habits and ideas die hard. Have you seen the test done with full syn vs Dino, the damage that is done to bearings and metal under high stress its ghastly, I think the reason break ins take longer is the oil is letting the metal wear smoother and easier I'm no pro that's just my 2cents

Thanks, yes that is a Bayliner 185. It has the 3.0 Mercruiser I/O.

I haven't seen any tests where they were directly compared. All of the info I have read says to use dino. Do you happen to have a link? I have no problems going with newer, better ways.

 

[TexasNomad]

I saw this RP demo and No I'm not preaching that every one should run out and buy RP but it does show the differences in dino vs Syn and its the only video I could find where did these kind of tests, I have a feeling they didn't use full Syn Mobile1 in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA
I thought that was a liner by bro has the same boat great boats.