Bushing

[77FordTruckMan]

what is this bushing called? it is in the front and it needs replaced, the truck makes a loud banging noise when you go over a pothole. I was thinking about asking about it when I get it inspected, but then they might say they need to do it for inspection and it may be expensive . Has anybody replaced one of these themselves? is it easy to do, or should I just get the garage to do it when I get it inspected? it is a 77 f-150 2wd

here is a view of the one on the other side so you can better tell which one it is.

thanks

 

[flareside_thunder]

radius arm bushing...they're fairly easy to do

 

[flareside_thunder]

Hope this helps....http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/355/355-4-7109G.pdf

 

[77FordTruckMan]

wow that was fast, thanks.

 

[flareside_thunder]

np man that's what we're here for...I'm just here more cause I'm unemployed lmao

 

[Mil1ion]

Let's get this in a thread..shall we.

Installation Instructions for Set # 4-7107, Set # 4-7109 & Set # 4-7110

Must reuse existing cupped metal washers and nylon
spacer (if used).
NOTE: Mark the orientation of the parts being removed, they will need to
be placed the same way when reinstalled.
Remove cotter pin and nut from end of radius arm.
Remove small cupped washer, old bushing and nylon spacer.
Move axle forward just far enough to remove old bushing and large
cupped washer. It may be necessary to remove the shock absorber from
lower mount.
Clean all parts thoroughly before reinstalling.
Install large cupped metal washer, new polyurethane bushing as shown.
(NOTE: On some vehicles the nylon spacer is forward of the frame.)
Move axle back to original position.
Inspect O.E. nylon spacer and replace if damaged.
Install O.E. nylon spacer, new polyurethane bushing, small washer and nut.
Torque nut to factory specs.
Install new cotter pin of the same size.
It is recommended that a professional front end alignment be done.

 

[flareside_thunder]

Thanks Dennis, good idea.

 

[RustyCJ]

And inspect the bracket also. Last one I did was on a 96, so your 77 may not be affected depending on the design. If its been loose for any length of time it will oblong the hole in the bracket making the new bushing somewhat sloppy.

 

[Mil1ion]

Tools required are a come-along or bottle jack and preferably a transmission jack to hold the suspension up.

 

[radialarm]

You might also consider replacing your axle pivot bushings!!!

Changing those and the radiusarm bushings made my truck feel handle a new one!!!

 

[FirstOnRaceDayAg]

The setup in those pictures is actually not bad for changing the bushings. The brackets appear to be bolted to the frame instead of riveted. And no castle nut or cotter pin. My 77 is the same.

When I changed mine, after removing tire and wheel, I supported the frame under the crossmember, with a jack stand, toward the side I was replacing. This allowed me to adjust the height of the I-beam with a scissor jack.

I removed the radius arm nut (1-1/8" socket) unbolted the bracket and pulled it off the radius arm. Replaced inner bushing, put bracket on radius arm, then new outer bushing, washer and nut (not tightened). Then realign bracket (this is where you'll need to be able to push the I-beam forward some to align the holes). Reinstall the bracket - tightening to specs (I replaced the bolts using new grade 8 hardware). After this, tighten radius arm nut to specs and you're done (except for replacing wheel, of course).

Repeat for other side.

Good advice to check the size of the hole in the radius arm bracket, they can become enlarged.