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back tank acting cuttin in/out

the problems are never ending it seems like.

i went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. i switched to the front tank (was on the back) and it started just fine.

i've been using ONLY the back tank for months b/c the front has it's own set of issues that i prefer not to use. it had about 1/4 tank of gas and had been running fine. anywho, i switched to the front, went down to the gas station and filled both up.

been running errands all day, trying to switch back and forth to diagnose. sometimes it'll die immediately, other times i can make it 10 miles before it starts to stutter. once it stutters, if i dont' swtich tanks, it dies.

thoughts on what it could be?

my only guess is that little filter on the pump is clogged with something. when i switch off, suction releases it and driving shakes it away. if that's the case, what can i do about it...without dropping the tank.

i know i need to get my fuel filter changed, but that wouldn't affect only the back tank

EDIT: the title was supposed to be "back tank acting up" or "back tank cutting in/out", not a combination of both
 
Last edited:

radialarm

Clown of Death!
The intank pumps have a filter like sock on them about 3 or 4 inches long, doesn't seem likely they would unclog. It could be one of the connectors corroded, or the rear pump could be going bad. My rear pump went bad one morning going to work. It sputtered a while and the engine ran rough, but after I got to work and shut it off it would not start until I switched to the front tank. Check your connections, and good luck with it.
 
i just replaced the tank a few months ago (and messed with the lines and pump and stuff). seems like i would have noticed a bad connector. then again, i'm a terrible mechanic.

it'd make more sense in my head if the pump just didn't work at all. but the way it works sometimes, then quits randomly doesn't make sense
 

radialarm

Clown of Death!
Well if you unplugged it and didn't put dielectric grease back in and it has rained since then that might do it. Just a shot in the dark.
 

ameritaz3038

New York Chapter Leader
back during the summer my truck did the same thing. but in my case i did not have the front tank to fall back to. already had a dead pump. I just filled you the rear tank and got on the highway , then truck dies. get it restart go 10 dies, did this 2-3 time then dies completely. ended up replace front pump(empty tank) and run fine, (still have to do back pump)

Note: shortly before completely dead i did happen on a code 174, and was thinking vacuum leak , but after new pump no code.
 

radialarm

Clown of Death!
crap - that is all i have to say about that.

the front one runs, so i'll likely end up paying someone to fix that tank....although, i just invested in the back tank (the actual tank) so maybe i should replace that pump.
You should have replaced the pump at the same time. That's why when I changed my clutch I changed the slave cyl. at the same time. So I wouldn't have to do it again.
 
well, it's dead now.

looks like new ones are $140ish. anyone know anything drastically cheaper?

also, it's full of gas. when i replaced the tank, dealing with dropping it and getting to the fuel lines and everything was a huge pain. how hard is it to raise the bed?
 
The hard part is getting the bolts removed that hold the bed on.
Sometimes you have to weld a nut on top of the bolt and have someone hold it while you turn it from underneath.
Then the fuel filler hoses.
Unplug the wiring in the rear.
Get three others and lift it off.
 

radialarm

Clown of Death!
Run the front tank down, then get a fuel transfer pump, and pump the rear tank into the front tank as much as you can. A fuel transfer pump has a long hose on either end and a hand pump in the middle. I believe I got mine at AZ it was a POS but it got er done.
 

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