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6.0 ficm tsb

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
TSB
08-26-3 6.0L DIESEL - DRIVEABILITY - NO START, HARD START, RUNS ROUGH - FUEL INJECTION CONTROL MODULE DIAGNOSIS

Publication Date: December 12, 2008

FORD: 2003-2005 Excursion
2003-2007 F-Super Duty
2004-2009 E-350, E-450, E-550


This article supersedes TSBs 04-18-6 and 07-5-4 to update the repair sequence, FICM_MPWR check, symptoms and additional diagnostic information.

ISSUE:
Some 2003-2005 Excursion, 2003-2007 F-Super Duty and 2004-2009 E-Series vehicles equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may experience no starts, hard starts or rough running when cold and may be accompanied with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0611, P1378 and / or all 8 injector circuit codes. These symptoms may lessen or disappear when the engine is warm. These conditions may be caused by the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) or injector spool valve sticking internally during cold engine operation.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE TIPS

A failed FICM module can cause diagnostic trouble codes related to injectors even when the injectors or injector wiring are not at fault. The FICM module should be checked for proper operation before evaluating injector operation or wiring issues.

For information: Symptoms of stiction (These conditions are caused by the injector spool valve sticking internally during cold engine operation engine oil temperature) can be improved by using the lightest possible specified weight oil during winter months. Refer to the Owner Guide Information - Diesel Supplement / Maintenance and Specifications / Engine oil specifications. After confirming that the appropriate weight oil is being used, evaluate the injector operation according to Step 13 of the Service Procedure.

Information On The FICM TEST:

An improperly operating vehicle battery(s) or charging system can cause additional operating loads to the internal components of the FICM module, due to low power supply voltages. Glow plug operation, vehicle accessories (factory and non-factory installed), and hot and cold temperatures can also put additional requirements on the vehicles electrical, battery and charging system. This can result in shortened FICM module component life.

The FICM module contains two major internal components, the main circuit board and a DC-DC converter. The DC-DC converter is the device that amplifies battery voltage to 48 volts (V) to operate the injectors. Two major test entry conditions listed below are critical to accurately test the FICM DC-DC converter:

Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) Less Than 68 °F (20 °C)

The calibration in the FICM uses a pre-cycle mode during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) / glow plug operation. This mode is used to rapidly heat the injector spool valve and prevent sticking during cold operation. During this mode, the electrical demand on the FICM DC-DC converter is near maximum.

L_PWR >= 11.5 V

The target 48 V output of the DC-DC converter is directly affected by the battery supply voltage, or B+. This is measured internally to the FICM with the FICM_VPWR PID. Ensuring both of the above criteria are met before conducting the FICM_MPWR test will prevent incorrect readings, misdiagnosis and replacement of good parts.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Verify the battery and charging system are functioning properly. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-00 for diagnosis and repair. If the battery cannot maintain a good charge, it will affect the operation and testing of the FICM, as the FICM is an amplifier and has to work much harder to compensate for low battery voltage.
Install Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) and retrieve the FICM calibration information by selecting:
Toolbox
Powertrain
OBD Test Mode
Mode 9
If the FICM contains one of the following files then it has already had the Inductive Heat calibration installed:
ARZ2AH00
ARZ2AL00
ARZ2AL01
NOTE: RECORD FICM CALIBRATION NUMBER PRIOR TO PERFORMING PROGRAM MODULE INSTALLATION (PMI) AS IT WILL BE REQUIRED LATER IN STEP 11.



After checking the FICM calibration info, perform a PMI on the FICM. This should be done even if the FICM already had one of the three (3) calibrations listed above.
Disconnect the glow plug control module (GPCM) power wire C1249A, circuit 361 (RD) from the passenger side battery. This also disconnects the alternator to minimize power draw from the batteries and provide more consistent FICM testing.
NOTE: THIS WILL SET GPCM CODES THAT NEED TO BE CLEARED BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER.



Set up IDS to test FICM power by selecting:
EOT
B+
FICM_LPWR
FICM_MPWR
FICM_VPWR
After the glow plug wait to start light is off, monitor EOT.
If EOT is less than 68 °F (20 °C) go to Step 8.
If EOT is higher than specified use the Instrumentation Gauge Tester 014-R1063 or equivalent to simulate a cold engine by:
Ignition off.
Disconnect EOT sensor Connector C104.
Connect the one lead of the instrument gauge tester to the EOT sensor connector C104-1, circuit 357 (GY/RD), harness side and the other lead of the instrument gauge tester to the EOT sensor connector C104-2, harness side circuit 354 (LG/RD).
Set the Gauge Tester to 80,000 ohms.
NOTE: IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO CONFIRM THE GAUGE TESTER SETTINGS WITH AN OHMMETER TO ENSURE THAT THE GAUGE TESTER IS IN THE CORRECT POSITION. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS CHECK MAY RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.



Turn key to run KOEO and check the B+ PID.
If B+ is not at least 11.5 V, then charge batteries and return to Step 1.
If B+ is greater than 11.5 V, go to Step 9.
Verify the following voltages and states. Use the FICM ERROR STATE CHECKS chart below.

Table for Step 9 - FICM ERROR STATE CHECK
FICM_ LPWR FICM _MPWR DTC Check
11.5 MIN 45 V None FICM diagnostics - proceed to Step 11b
0 MIN 45 V P1378 FICM LPWR fuse (15 amp) - proceed to Step 10
0 Less than 45 V P0611, P1378 FICM relay, 50 amp fuse - proceed to Step 10


Disconnect the three (3) FICM connectors and inspect condition of connector, pins, and wiring at the connector, paying close attention for wiring chafes. Repair any issues and reevaluate vehicle, if the condition is corrected go to Step 11. If the condition is still present continue to Step 10a.
NOTE: SOME COMMON CHAFING LOCATIONS ARE: UPPER LEFT VALVE COVER, VALVE COVER BOLT, AND INTAKE BOLTS, UNDER AND NEAR THE FICM.



With a voltmeter check the following:
Check for B+ voltage at pin 27 of connector 1388C and ground pins 1, 2, 3, 22 and 26, with the KOEO.
If no, or low voltage is present, repair as necessary.
If B+ is present, proceed Step 10a(2).
Check for B+ voltage between pins 4, 7, 8, 23, 24, 25 and ground.
If no or low voltage is found at any pin, repair as necessary.
If B+ is present at all pins, replace the FICM, reference WSM 303-14B-1, reconnect the GPCM power and EOT connector, clear codes, and return vehicle to customer.
With IDS still connected, cycle key to off position and then to on position within 2 seconds to start injector pre-cycle. While the injectors are cycling (glow plug Wait to Start Light is on), record the lowest observed FICM_MPWR.
If FICM_MPWR drops below 45 V, replace and reprogram the FICM (WSM 303-14B), reconnect GPCM power, EOT connector if it was removed to perform the test using the Instrument Gauge Tester and return vehicle to the customer.
If FICM_MPWR stays above 45 V or greater, the DC-DC converter is good, perform the following:
If the FICM did not have one of the three calibrations listed in Step 3, then it did not have the Inductive Heat feature. Since the PMI performed in Step 4 programmed this calibration into the FICM, it will now address any stiction concerns. If the vehicle functions normally, reconnect GPCM power and EOT connector if it was removed to perform the test using the Instrument Gauge Tester and return vehicle to the customer.
If the FICM already had one of the three calibrations listed in Step 3, then injector stiction is not the concern, proceed to Step 12.
Reconnect GPCM power and EOT connector if it was removed to perform the test using the Instrument Gauge Tester.
Perform KOEO injector electrical self test as outlined in the Powertrain Controls/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Section 2.
 

Bloodhound

Oilfield Trash
Thanks for the info/ i do have a question. My wifes Excursion idles really rough when it is cold. It is as loud as a cold 7.3 sometimes. This is only when it is verry cold outside. I don't know if it has the heat flash. Would this effect her ex? the ex runs really great once it is warm.
 

Beachbumcook

Kansas Chapter member
Here are the things necessary for improved cold weather operation and reduced stress on the 6.0L PSD (Beachbumcook's personal list).

1) Get latest flash (regardless of what it is but it will have the inductive heat mode with it).

2) Have two strong and good batteries (batteries are cheap FICM modules are not).

3) Use the proper weight motor oil and oil filter. I personally use Rotella 5W-40 synthetic year round and it makes winter/cold start-ups a breeze.

4) Use your block heater if you have the cord or buy the cord if your truck did not come from the factory with one. Use when extremly cold, but the 5W-40 oil alone will make a huge improvement.

5) Use a cetane booster and anti-gel fuel additive. Both are needed to ensure a higher ignition and less gelling. I use Powerservice in the white bottle as it provides for both (cetane and antigel)... but there are other brands... just make sure it comes with both and not just a reference to "improved performance".

6) Use only Racor/Int'l/Motorcraft fuel filters to ensure 100% water separation and clean fuel.


If you follow the Beachbumcook's 6-step method to improved winter maintenance... you will have a worry-free/care-free driving experience.

WARNING:
This 6-step maintenance schedule is copywrited and can only be used by paying "Beachbumcook" one 6-pack of Miller-Lite per publication or re-posting. Unauthoized use will result in 20 savage dwarfs with knives and guns being sent to your home or office... and you don't want to mess with the gang of dwarfs I use and contract with!!!!!
 
Last edited:
If you follow the Beachbumcook's 6-step method to improved winter maintenance... you will have a worry-free/care-free driving experience.

WARNING:
This 6-step maintenance schedule is copywrited and can only be used by paying "Beachbumcook" one 6-pack of Miller-Lite per publication or re-posting. Unauthoized use will result in 20 savage dwarfs with knives and guns being sent to your home or office... and you don't want to mess with the gang of dwarfs I use and contract with!!!!!

lmao..

I might be able to handle 15 savage dwarves, but 20 is out of the question.

Duly noted.
 

Beachbumcook

Kansas Chapter member
lmao..

I might be able to handle 15 savage dwarves, but 20 is out of the question.

Duly noted.

Yep... the last 5 (forgot to mention) are women dwarfs suffering from PMS!!! They are the worst and only back-up their male counterparts if called upon!!!!
 
An improperly operating vehicle battery(s) or charging system can cause additional operating loads to the internal components of the FICM module, due to low power supply voltages. Glow plug operation, vehicle accessories (factory and non-factory installed), and hot and cold temperatures can also put additional requirements on the vehicles electrical, battery and charging system. This can result in shortened FICM module component life.

Knowing about the above quoted excerpt from the ficm tsb, I bought new batteries for my now 4 yr. old truck yesterday. My truck has been starting great so the purchase was sorta preemptive. When I got home with the batteries I had a mild case of buyers remorse because like I said, my truck didn't have any starting issues. Well, when I went to change the batteries, I noticed the battery on the drivers side site glass indicator was red (green indicates charged). Suddenly, I was feeling smart :rolleyes: and the mild case of buyers remorse had vanished.

On a side note, the factory batteries were 750 cca each and the ones I replaced them with were 880cca each.

Thank you Vince for your valuable information you pass on to us here...
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Knowing about the above quoted excerpt from the ficm tsb, I bought new batteries for my now 4 yr. old truck yesterday. My truck has been starting great so the purchase was sorta preemptive. When I got home with the batteries I had a mild case of buyers remorse because like I said, my truck didn't have any starting issues. Well, when I went to change the batteries, I noticed the battery on the drivers side site glass indicator was red (green indicates charged). Suddenly, I was feeling smart :rolleyes: and the mild case of buyers remorse had vanished.

On a side note, the factory batteries were 750 cca each and the ones I replaced them with were 880cca each.

Thank you Vince for your valuable information you pass on to us here...
So, can I have my badge so I can eat at the FTF cafeteria now?
 
Cafeteria hell, Ryan's sending Zach in the FTF G-5 down to pick you and the little woman up and fly you to some island where you sit on the beach drinking fruity drinks with 'lil umbrellas in them!!!
 

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