460 Oil Change

[460Trucker]

Hey guys, going to be doing my own oil changes now. I have a general idea of how they are done. Can someone instruct me on the proper way?
Should I change the oil filter as well?
Where can I dispose of used oil?
How much will I need for my engine?

Many thanks!

 

[DNFXDLI]

Always change the filter when you change the oil. You will have to look in your owners manual for the capacity.
Most places that have a dump (landfill) take the used oil....I have a few 5 gallon buckets I use here so my trips are minimized...they also take the used filters.
Remember to lightly oil the rubber gasket on the filter and don't overtighten it.
I like to change my oil when the engine has been run so the oil is still warm.

 

[460Trucker]

Thanks for a quick response Duncan! Are filters universal?

 

[DNFXDLI]

Thanks for a quick response Duncan! Are filters universal?

Np and no....there are specific filters for each engine.

 

[460Trucker]

Ok. I will have to check with the local auto place. Any brands of oil/filters you would recommend?

 

[DNFXDLI]

I'd order some Amsoil from Chris here....as well as the filter. I also like Motorcraft products from Ford.

 

[fatherdoug]

Oil filter on the '97 F-250 460 is still a Motorcraft FL1A, which has been used for a LONG time.( I can remember putting those on railroad vehicles in the early 70's) Chris can cross-reference to an Amsoil filter, if you so desire.

 

[SuperCab]

What everybody else has said.

If your engine is in good condition (no smoking or major leaks) then I would definitely go synthetic. I just ordered some Amsoil from Chris a while back for my *non-Ford* and couldn't have been more pleased.

Chris can set you up with a filter as well I would think but otherwise, and for future reference for anyone else who may read this: don't cheap out on the filter!

Wix, purolator, and of course motorcraft are all good filters. Avoid fram and other bargain brands like the plague. They have less filter medium and often lack an anti-drainback valve.

 

[Beach66Bum]

Mike, buy yourself one of those oil change kits with the nice large pan container with the built in spout. Makes for a clean oil change

Then you can pour the used oil back into the new empty containers that you just used for easy disposal at any store that sells oil.

 

[5.0Flareside]

thanks everyone for the suggestion of ordering from me.

im gonna go at this 1 line at a time..

1. Yes, Change your filter every time you change your oil. There is only 1 auto maker that has suggested other wise, late 90's early 00's, Honda said every other oil change (foolish).

2. Your oil filter is a Motorcraft FL1A, Wix 51515, AMSOIL EAO15.
capacity on your truck is 6 qts. 5w30 was original spec, ford back-spec'd to 5w20. I say go with 5w30. i run 0w30 in my truck and it loves it.

3. Take your time when changing the oil, this is my process, and i've adopted alot of things that i had to do at Valvoline instant oil change when i was there.

always double check for a old gasket from old oil filter before installing new, double gasketing is a huge mess, will spew oil everywhere.

double check tightness of oil filter, and drain plug before you install oil and fire.

fire the engine, imediately get out and check for leaks from oil filter area and drain plug. shut engine off.

pull dipstick clean it off, redip, check oil level.

 

[5.0Flareside]

and as far as the filter conversation..

Fram are complete garbage...

comparison...

Fram, cardboard endcaps, plastic bypass valve, cheap nitrile ADBV, media is cheap, and very few pleats








Motorcraft nice and consistent pleats of media, still the basic cellulose media, metal endcaps, and metal bypass valve spring

AMSOIL Synthetic nano fiber wire backed media, metal endcaps, silicone ADBV, very thick can. i could keep going..

 

[460Trucker]

Thank you all very much for your insights and information. Chris I will get in touch with you via PM. I need to get oil and a filter. Thank you all again for helping me out. Soon I will be my own mechanic!

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Random tip for you...

If you've been getting your oil changed at a quick lube shop or Wal-Mart, your filter might be super-duper tight. Don't try to make your new filter super-duper tight. 1/4 turn past when it stops being effortless will typically do it.

Ryan

 

[460Trucker]

Random tip for you...

If you've been getting your oil changed at a quick lube shop or Wal-Mart, your filter might be super-duper tight. Don't try to make your new filter super-duper tight. 1/4 turn past when it stops being effortless will typically do it.

Ryan

Good to know! Thanks. I've just taken it to a local garage. Unfortunately they have not been very trustworthy lately, which is part of the reason I want to start doing things myself.

 

[5.0Flareside]

Thank you all very much for your insights and information. Chris I will get in touch with you via PM. I need to get oil and a filter. Thank you all again for helping me out. Soon I will be my own mechanic!

Replied....

 

[fatherdoug]

and as far as the filter conversation..

Fram are complete garbage...

comparison...

Fram, cardboard endcaps, plastic bypass valve, cheap nitrile ADBV, media is cheap, and very few pleats




Motorcraft nice and consistent pleats of media, still the basic cellulose media, metal endcaps, and metal bypass valve spring

AMSOIL Synthetic nano fiber wire backed media, metal endcaps, silicone ADBV, very thick can. i could keep going..

Chris, how does the WIX compare? I can buy WIX locally, but I have to travel to buy Motorcraft.

 

[taxreliever]

thanks everyone for the suggestion of ordering from me.

im gonna go at this 1 line at a time..

1. Yes, Change your filter every time you change your oil. There is only 1 auto maker that has suggested other wise, late 90's early 00's, Honda said every other oil change (foolish).

2. Your oil filter is a Motorcraft FL1A, Wix 51515, AMSOIL EAO15.
capacity on your truck is 6 qts. 5w30 was original spec, ford back-spec'd to 5w20. I say go with 5w30. i run 0w30 in my truck and it loves it.

3. Take your time when changing the oil, this is my process, and i've adopted alot of things that i had to do at Valvoline instant oil change when i was there.

always double check for a old gasket from old oil filter before installing new, double gasketing is a huge mess, will spew oil everywhere.

double check tightness of oil filter, and drain plug before you install oil and fire.

fire the engine, imediately get out and check for leaks from oil filter area and drain plug. shut engine off.

pull dipstick clean it off, redip, check oil level.

Only oil/filter that will go in any of my vehicles (except for my pos cheby plow truck - burns a lot and is a pos) is Amsoil.

Sent from my not so smart phone.

 

[taxreliever]

Chris is the man BTW.....goes above and beyond just your order as you can at least get a glimpse on his post here.

Sent from my not so smart phone.

 

[95F350XL]

I use 10W30/40 in everything I have. The thin oil just seems to much like water for these old engines. There was a tag under the hood of my 95F350 that said 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. I have been using the Bosch filters. I believe that a filter that is heavy is a good filter. The light filters are junk. Always check all ur air pressures, grease all steering/suspension/ u joints, ck belts/hoses, ck brakes, ck for looseness in steering/suspension when doing the oil change. I know my job at work is to find what is wrong with a car/truck to make money for the shop, but I do that on all my stuff.

 

[5.0Flareside]

here's a good shot of the wix filter 51515. I like it better than the motorcraft to be honest.







and heres a better can off of the AMSOIL EAO15