400 problems...

[UNRULEE]

Here you go Ben, it's even from Summit Racing. I'm not sure if you can buy it directly from their website or not for this price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[LEB Ben]

Here you go Ben, it's even from Summit Racing. I'm not sure if you can buy it directly from their website or not for this price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holl...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Thank ya sir...much appreciated.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Check your timing to make sure the chain aint stretched out.

 

[LEB Ben]

Check your timing to make sure the chain aint stretched out.

Yeah...I'd like to swap that out any way and go with the double roller from Cloyes this time around. And if I was thinking, I woulda done it when it was out. But the fact of the matter is, I didn't have the extra $90 to spare. Hell, I'm not even sure I have the $20 to spend on a standard straight up unit plus the $30 in antifreeze it'll cost me (reusing is always a possibility though).

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Just get a five gallon bucket to drain it in then just filter it back into some empty bottles or right into the radiator. Double rollers are nice but there really aint a need to get em a regular one will work just fine. Id just check it with a timin light first. Mark the balancer where it needs to be with some white out then put the light on it, if it bounces all over then ya need a new chain.

 

[LEB Ben]

As for re-using antifreeze...I just drain it out of the petcock into a funnel in a bottle with a rag ziptied over the funnel. Then do the same thing as best as I can when I pull the lower hose.

What do you use to filter?


As for the timing chain, yeah I know double rollers are a bit of overkill. As for checking the timing...back at school, with no light. Apparently the gf hasn't gotten the memo. But it checked out fine at home, I'd say there's a little play, but nothing to get hot and bothered about.

 

[DNFXDLI]

I'd say there's a little play, but nothing to get hot and bothered about.

To say something or not to say something...that is the question.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I use either a rag or a chunk of a frilly curtain thing that the dogs tore down just to get the big stiff and most of the dirt out.

 

[LEB Ben]

To say something or not to say something...that is the question.

I'd say that I would deserve a comment...but I wouldn't expect an old geezer's brain to be able to fire quickly enough to come up with something...especially one that wears a shirt with flowers.

I use either a rag or a chunk of a frilly curtain thing that the dogs tore down just to get the big stiff and most of the dirt out.

Alright...just making sure there wasn't something better. I'm sure I could tear into an actual filter and make something though.

 

[DNFXDLI]

I'd say that I would deserve a comment...but I wouldn't expect an old geezer's brain to be able to fire quickly enough to come up with something...especially one that wears a shirt with flowers.



Alright...just making sure there wasn't something better. I'm sure I could tear into an actual filter and make something though.

An old geezer??...holy harshness Batman!...and I couldn't think of anything appropriate to say so I said that..

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I wouldnt worry about it a rag will be fine enough to get the big stuff out.

 

[DNFXDLI]

A test to see something

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Anythin yet?

 

[LEB Ben]

A test to see something

If I'm part of this test...yes I can see Dan's post now.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Yes, as soon as I posted it showed...weird.

 

[blackhat620]

Ben,

If you are getting an exhaust backfire at deceleration, then the air/fuel mixture is lean causing incomplete combustion, and the remaining fuel is igniting in the exhaust. There are many things that can be causing your lean condition, if you did not properly adjust the carburator (you are using a vacuum gauge correct), float or needles sticking/dirty. Rebuilding the carb is not a bad idea, then make sure you properly adjust the carburetor and ignition timing. Also another thing that will do it is lack of backpressure in the exhaust causing "overscavenging".

Reading your list of problems, backfiring, hesitation, mpg, i would say you have carburetor problems, fuel delievery system problems and/or ignition problems.

As for your vibration/wobble, were do you feel it (ie steering wheel, floor, pedals, is it isolated front to back or side to side)?

 

[LEB Ben]

Ben,

If you are getting an exhaust backfire at deceleration, then the air/fuel mixture is lean causing incomplete combustion, and the remaining fuel is igniting in the exhaust. There are many things that can be causing your lean condition, if you did not properly adjust the carburator (you are using a vacuum gauge correct), float or needles sticking/dirty. Rebuilding the carb is not a bad idea, then make sure you properly adjust the carburetor and ignition timing. Also another thing that will do it is lack of backpressure in the exhaust causing "overscavenging".)

Alright...once again, thanks for the info. As for the mixture, that is one thing I didn't really mess with, and now feel like an idiot for not going back and tinkering with. I initially set them at 1.25 turns out and never went back...simply because that's what Red is set at, and that was the ball park the 351 was at. So then this could be a contributing factor as well. So I'll guess and check there, cuz I don't have the vac guage here.

As for your vibration/wobble, were do you feel it (ie steering wheel, floor, pedals, is it isolated front to back or side to side)?

It actually feels like it's smack dab in the middle of the floor right at the firewall.

 

[blackhat620]

It actually feels like it's smack dab in the middle of the floor right at the firewall.

Try and determine what RPM it is occurring at. Then hold that RPM in all gears and see if the vibration shows up in each gear (a manual trans correct?). If it is RPM related then your problem lies in the engine, transmission, t-case, drive shaft etc. If the vibration only occurrs at a specific speed (ie 60-70 mph) in top gear then it is more than likely a wheel or wheel bearing problem.
If you have an automatic then first thing that jumps out is a torque converter problem.

 

[LEB Ben]

Try and determine what RPM it is occurring at. Then hold that RPM in all gears and see if the vibration shows up in each gear (a manual trans correct?). If it is RPM related then your problem lies in the engine, transmission, t-case, drive shaft etc. If the vibration only occurrs at a specific speed (ie 60-70 mph) in top gear then it is more than likely a wheel or wheel bearing problem.
If you have an automatic then first thing that jumps out is a torque converter problem.

Fudge...it is an automatic. So what kind of TC problem are you thinking? I used the one that was behind the 351 because the one that came with the 400 didn't look too good.

 

[blackhat620]

Fudge...it is an automatic. So what kind of TC problem are you thinking? I used the one that was behind the 351 because the one that came with the 400 didn't look too good.

Well it could be as simple as a high speed engine mis-fire caused by bad plug wires or plugs. Or simply flushing the transmission, converter, cooler and cooler lines may solve the problem.

You can do a stall speed test but you need to have a tach and know the stall speed of the converter to do this.

If it is the converter, it could be that when you bolted the converter up, it is crooked (ie not properly torqued, rust/paint on crank or TC, not lubing mounting surface), or the 1-way clutch or lock-up clutch is bad. If the 1-way clutch is bad then you would overheat the transfluid. A bad transmission or TC would also explain your drop in MPG.