Spray on VS Roll on bed liner

[wareagle]

Is it an alloy of all three? Are their any cons to using lead-free versus a lead/tin alloy?

 

[smokey]

Yes it is a alloy just like 70/30 lead solder is lead/tin.
The flow characteristic of the solder is different and a bit in the melting point.
The heat is not enough to make a difference it is only a few degrees different like 60-70* IIRC.
The flow as in when the solder is in a liquid state the lead free is a bit stiffer which can be a very good thing as the solder will not run off the repair as easy. It seems the lead free when set is a bit harder does not scratch as easy than the lead type. Both are still malleable and can be worked and not crack or lift.

 

[wareagle]

Awesome, thanks Smokey. Will look for lead-free solder sticks and use them.

 

[smokey]

The biggest difference is price the lead free is about 1/3 more in cost.
Some would argue the lead free is safer,
If you are doing this day in and day out breathing the fumes or holding the solder with your teeth then it maybe safer health wise. But the small amount the average hobbyist uses it I would not be afraid to use lead at all.

 

[wareagle]

So, since I'm using this on the cab floor first to cut my teeth on leading, would it matter if I went ahead and got the lead/tin alloy? I'm all about saving a few bucks. Also, on the one's on Ebay that I sent you the link to, those are 50/50 lead to tin. Would those be solid enough to use for body work, or should I stick with at least a 70/30 alloy?

 

[smokey]

Go lead type and no the 50/50 will not work correctly. you need 70/30 that is the preferred solder for this type of work.
Once you try this and if you think you will be using this method in the future then I would get some of the lead free and give it a try to see which you prefer. I like the lead free for vertical work where it doesn't have the tenancy run off so easy. For flat work the lead type work great. it also works good for vertical work once you catch on to it.

 

[wareagle]

Go lead type and no the 50/50 will not work correctly. you need 70/30 that is the preferred solder for this type of work.
Once you try this and if you think you will be using this method in the future then I would get some of the lead free and give it a try to see which you prefer. I like the lead free for vertical work where it doesn't have the tenancy run off so easy. For flat work the lead type work great. it also works good for vertical work once you catch on to it.

Good thing I asked you... Was considering buying the 50/50 lead/tin on ebay...

 

[smokey]

The 50/50 will work but it is not the preferred solder for this. I have some 50/50 but don't care for it. I use it in stain glass cane work.

 

[wareagle]

I'll stick with your advice and go with the 70/30 lead to tin alloy.

Thanks for all your help. Will let you know when I start and how I am doing...

Steven

 

[m78]

Before you get started , you can check the dangers of lead here:
http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/leadinfo.htm

Basicly its more dangerous to children because it can damage the brain and central nervous system,
Can cause decreased intelligance,reading and learning difficulties etc.

(I think I must have snorted lead dust as a child)

 

[wareagle]

thanks Mark.

 

[wareagle]

Smokey, any idea where I can get tinning butter and tallow from somewhere other than Eastwood?

 

[smokey]

tinning paste you can get from about anyplace that sells stained glass supplies like a craft store etc. The tallow I get at the car shows when I go to Carilse car shows I would think you could get it or order it a a paint jobber or auto parts place that caries autobody supplies.

 

[wareagle]

is tinning paste the same as tinning butter?

 

[smokey]

more or less the same thing.I use the brush on liquid instead of paste it is easier to work with as it wipes off way easier.

 

[wareagle]

you spread it on the bare metal area and heat it up with the torch to prep the surface.

What else would tallow be listed as? Is there anything other than tallow you would recommend for lubing the padle?

 

[smokey]

I have used solder paste flux when I ran out of tallow one time it seemed to work OK.

 

[wareagle]

Ever use tinning powder before? This link mentions something about it and mixing with tap water, then applying with an acid brush. I saw acid brushes on Eastwood's site, but had never heard of them before. Saturday I was in Lowe's and saw acid brushes as well, which makes me wonder if they also sell some sort of tinning material for sheet metal.

http://autoshop101.ca/autobody/leadloading.htm

 

[smokey]

I have used the powder it is the same as the liquid just not premixed.
I think lowes has the liquid as well. I saw it at a hardware store when buying the wife stuff for making lead glass.

 

[wareagle]

I haven't had too much luck at Lowe's lately asking for various things. If I go in and ask for tinning liquid or powder I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get a deer in the headlights look...

Just thought about something. My favorite uncle in the world used to do a lot of stain glass windows as a hobby. He passed away a few years back.