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Pop in my front end

3,121
67
Michigan
Cheap parts? It may be cheap but do you get a lifetime warrenty with the Motorcraft? My motorcraft tie rod ends didnt last me 80K miles..
 

surewhynot

Rep whores make me sick
13,843
821
Florida
Just because bushings were replaced with the lift, don't assume they are still good. Check them out. Unfortunately, a lot of lift kits come with chitty bushings.
 

TheRoadVirus

High-Steppin' Mo-Sheen
You're going to be pretty upset if a tie-rod goes, and you passed on replacing them.
 
I know my tie rod ends need to be replaced but I know the sound well enough to know that I don't THINK those are causing it. And everyone knows I'm always right :rolleyes: :rofl: Those could be causing it but I'm leaning towards other ideas before I attack that project.

Ball joints seem pretty good, I tested them a while ago by jacking the wheels a bit off the ground and throwing a cheater bar under each tire and pulling up and town as hard as I could-- no movement. I know it's not an end-all test, but is there a better way to tell?

Wheel bearings were replaced with Timken's when I did my break job about a year ago-- both inners and outers.

I was kind of thinking about that maybe the pivot bushings were going bad so maybe I'll check those. Can they be seen from just looking at them or do I have to start takin' shit apart?

Same goes for the RA bushings... I can see a bit of rubber sticking out but isn't the actual bushing encased in those cups? Do I have to take the RA's apart to see the actual bushing inside?

Take it over to BeeLine in Woodland and they will check it out, they might even do it free. 113 and Main. :)
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
New tie rod ends would also cost a good chunk of change and I'm not sure if I'm prepared to drop that much money at the drop of a hat. They work well enough that I can drive the truck from Davis to Newcastle or Stockton every weekend so it's not an urgent repair IMO.

Ya know, I got to thinking about this a little more... Quality tie-rod ends aren't cheap, but they aren't obscenely expensive, either. I'm pretty sure some of your less-safety-related modifications to that truck have been as expensive (certainly a few of them together would be).

Plus, suspension work is kind of fun...you get to use really big wrenches and hit stuff with hammers. Beats the hell out of wiring improvements...:p
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
I priced it out with Moog premium parts (the only parts I'd use) and it would cost $250 for everything shipped to my house.

That's a good chunk of change.
 

Black150

California Chapter member
169
1
So Cal
You probably don't need new sleeves. That'll drop the price a bit.


.... you lazy ass! Go get the parts yourself, that'll drop the price even more.:p



..... oh, that won't work for Moog stuff though, will it. I tell you, the parts i got from Napa have held up extremely well. I would recommend them.
 
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Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Sleeves are not included in that price.

And the shipping is only $13.52 out of that $250. And if I buy the parts locally it'll cost me double as much (yes I checked). But I called Kragen and they said they'd price match to website too so I'm going to bring a printout down there and get these discounted prices without the cost of shipping.
 

TexasNomad

FTFS Designated DRINKER!
I don't know if this has been said or not.. But when my brothers truck got a pop it turn out to be the steering stabilizer.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
And he's gonna give em to you at the Rockauto price? Good deal!
Yeah hopefully he won't turn me around when I get down there, after seeing what Rockauto sells 'em for.

Then the other thing is that I have to pay sales tax if I buy locally. But then Kragen also gives 5% on top of the price match. So when all is said and done I end up saving $7 buying at Kragen, and I'd get them by the next day (and have to go pick them up). So I might do that so I can do them this weekend.
 

RocketScience

Alleged Recruiter
My '93 F150 4X4 got a "pop" in it shortly after (about 10K mi.) I put a Tuff Country 4" suspension lift on it. It too was most pronounced during hard turns.

Lift HERE

After much frustration, I finally isolated the popping sound to a loose adjustable cam bolt on the axle pivot bracket. I eventually had to put a cotter pin behind the nut to keep it from continually happening. Check it out if you have not already done so.
 

RocketScience

Alleged Recruiter
I know where to find the drop bracket for the pivot arm but... Adjustable cam bolt... What do mean by that?
I'll attempt to answer, as I do not own the truck anymore, and I am 'suspension illiterate'. :D

If I remember correctly, the stock axle pivot arm(?) runs up to a new drop bracket mounted on the frame. This bracket has a bolt (5/8" dia. I think) passing through it securing the pivot arm. The bolt has a non concentric washer set-up on it to allow for fine tuning of the alignment. The bolt is held in place by a nylon lock nut. This is the bolt (and nut) which comes loose or becomes worn which caused my popping sound.
 
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RocketScience

Alleged Recruiter
You talkin' bout the big bolts right about center in those 2 images?
Yes, however your lift looks to be a little different and appears to lack the adjustable cam bolts I mentioned.

I found the instruction manual for the lift kit I had HERE.

See page 7 and photos associated with steps 17 and 18. Similar but different. Are we talking the same brackets though?
 

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