My first engine pull/rebuild - 1994 351w

[Fellro]

As far as engine assembly goes, it really isn't that bad on most parts. The torque wrench can be had on loaner tool programs. You haven't been bashful about asking, and rest assured, most of us have made the mistakes. One of my first motors, I didn't keep the rod caps matched to the rods, and burned out the rod bearings in about 5 minutes. I have taken apart engines that had the piston hung on the rod backwards. It happens, feel free to ask, we won't make fun of you for too long... In all seriousness, everyone has to learn sometime, you have us to ask, which is way more than I could do back then. I learned from a Chilton's, they actually are pretty good for general engine stuff, but as mentioned, they suck for wiring and specifics.

 

[Fordzilla80]

I learned from a Chilton's, they actually are pretty good for general engine stuff, but as mentioned, they suck for wiring and specifics.

Unfortunately Chilton's joined the Hayne's bus and their newer manuals are just as worthless all around as Hayne's manuals. My dad had a Total Car Care manual for 1987-1991 F-Series trucks. I have a Total Car Care manual for 1987-1996. His manual covers four years, mine covers nine years. His manual is easily two times the size of mine.

 

[Fellro]

I had one that covered like 20 years, wasn't real big, which was printed in the mid 80's, when I was using it... They haven't changed all that much. I still like Chiltons better than Haynes.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

So guys... I'm finally ordering parts.

This or that?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1021BL/

"Scorpion Race Series"

OR

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP3021BL/

"Scorpion Endurance Series"

Ryan

 

[rambler]

I've never had problems with the teardowns,, its the rebuilding and getting all the pieces back in is the problem...

 

[fatherdoug]

So guys... I'm finally ordering parts.

This or that?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1021BL/

"Scorpion Race Series"

OR

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP3021BL/

"Scorpion Endurance Series"

Ryan

My simple mind doesn't see a difference between the two, other than price.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

In the descriptions:

Race Series:

Do you want to sting the competition with more speed? Swap out your rocker arms with Scorpion Race series roller rocker arms. And, if you're a hardcore enthusiast who's passionate about using American-made high performance automotive racing products, it gets even better. Scorpion offers the finest roller rocker arms that are 100 percent made in the USA. Precision-crafted by high-tech manufacturing methods, these aluminum rocker arms are fully CNC-machined, offer more clearance for retainers and springs, and can easily handle .950 in. lift and 950 lbs. of open spring pressure! Race series rocker arms are lightweight for maximum performance and feature a needle-bearing fulcrum and roller tip, a centerless ground trunnion, a ground pin and roller, a burr-free trunnion through hole, polylocks (yes, they're included), and black oxide coated steel parts. For a great finish to these superior rockers, the surfaces are micro-polished for maximum durability and anodized for additional protection and killer looks. Sting the competition, at home and abroad, by bolting on American-made Scorpion Race series roller rocker arms.

Endurance Series:

Scorpion Endurance rocker arms are manufactured in the USA and have the stamina to get the job done in your high performance racing engine. These rockers are designed to fit under stock height valve covers with no interference and can easily handle a .950 in. lift and 950 lbs. of open spring pressure. Scorpion rocker arms are micro-polished to endure over a long period and are anodized for additional protection, as well as great aesthetics. Choose your ratio and gain the stamina to sting your competition with Scorpion Endurance Series rocker arms.

The only thing that sticks out at me is in the endurance which I bolded above. Does that imply that the race series won't fit under standard valve covers?

 

[Fellro]

That would be a fair assessment.

 

[fatherdoug]

In the descriptions:

Race Series:



Endurance Series:



The only thing that sticks out at me is in the endurance which I bolded above. Does that imply that the race series won't fit under standard valve covers?

My simple mind didn't see that. Thank You. Yes, the implication is there, but that's all it is.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Well guys, I got the block and bottom end dropped off at the machine shop.

The guy at the machine shop agreed it all looked really good, and he even said they could put it in short block form for around $225. I was thinking about taking him up on that... He said they could bore it out AND hone it to fit exactly with each piston.

Ryan

 

[mrxlh]

Now if they would do all that to main, rod (big and little end) and cam bearings, balance the rotating and reciprocating assembly, I would say that is a steal for that price.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

He'd be willing to balance it, he said. The 225 was just for the time of putting it all together.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

He'd be willing to balance it, he said. The 225 was just for the time of putting it all together.

Ryan

thats not bad...

imo.....

 

[Ridgerunner]

He'd be willing to balance it, he said. The 225 was just for the time of putting it all together.

Ryan

That is a good price.

 

[Fellro]

Short block takes maybe an hour or so to put together and torque. If they were slapping heads on, would be even better. Basically, for short block, they put just the crank and bearings, pistons, cam, and timing chain/gears in, that is it.

 

[mrxlh]

Your looking at what 2 hours max to put in cam bearings, crank, rods, and pistons. $112.50 per hour of labor, seems kind of steep to me.

 

[Fellro]

Been a while, but cam bearings used to be $20-$40 to put in.Thing is, generally can be done in 15 minutes by someone with the right tool and experience. I will pay to have that done, as I don't have the tool, and they do have to go a certain way or trouble will ensue. The rest of the assembly is pretty easy to do.

 

[blacksnapon]

Well guys, I got the block and bottom end dropped off at the machine shop.

The guy at the machine shop agreed it all looked really good, and he even said they could put it in short block form for around $225. I was thinking about taking him up on that... He said they could bore it out AND hone it to fit exactly with each piston.

Ryan

Uh, if you bore it, the pistons will no longer fit! The question I have to ask is, how can you give a price if you dont know whats worn out? Measuring cylinder bores to test for "egg shaping". Measuring crankshaft main bearing bores to check for necessary line boring. Checking connecting rods for out of spec wear. Camshaft bores, the list goes on................

 

[Fellro]

I think they gave a price for the bottom end assembly, not the actual total cost. If the block check, bore job, hanging the pistons and assembly and all were only $225, I would be all over it.

 

[mrxlh]

Been a while, but cam bearings used to be $20-$40 to put in.Thing is, generally can be done in 15 minutes by someone with the right tool and experience. I will pay to have that done, as I don't have the tool, and they do have to go a certain way or trouble will ensue. The rest of the assembly is pretty easy to do.

Dry ice and methanol, or liquid nitrogen, that is all the special tools you need.