My first engine pull/rebuild - 1994 351w

[O'Rattlecan]

It seems like the Mass Air setups are different on almost every vehicle.

Some have 2 exhaust sensors.

Does anyone have a side-by-side comparison? What sensors are used on Speed Density vs. used on MAF?

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

It seems like the Mass Air setups are different on almost every vehicle.

Some have 2 exhaust sensors.

Does anyone have a side-by-side comparison? What sensors are used on Speed Density vs. used on MAF?

Ryan

only major differences are MAF most of the time have 2 O2 sensors, and MAF sensor.. nothing else really different as far as i can think.

 

[5.0Flareside]

I disagree on going .030 out on the block...

With that many miles on it it will be out of round. you may only need to go .010 or .020 out to correct it. in which case .030 is unnecesary and does not gain you anything.

On the other hand, it the block is in bad shape, you may have to go more than .030 to correct the out of round...

Your machinist will know.

On the other hand, if the oil was changed regularly and a wad of other variables all fall into place, you may be fine just honing it out. But not likely.

For future reference though, honing rather than boring will save you a butt ton of cash in a budget build. It will, indeed, be a loose build, but I've rebuilt small block chevs for $200 and they never once see the machine shop. good for another 200,000 miles? no, probably 50,000. but for $200 how can you go wrong?

It's all about what you want for an end product. You get what you pay for.

gains Cubic Inches.. only 6.. but CI's are CI's. and once again.. .030 over is more a standard size. doubt its worse than .030 over.. but if it is..

than he can just go find another block.. for dirt cheap they are so plentiful.

but why cheap out??? why hone than just for 50k miles later have to do it all again.. ya cant reuse crap really.. well ya can but then it'll be worse than before..

just do it right the first time.. he's planning this build for his truck to be there for a while.

 

[Fellro]

The second o2 is all for emissions only, the difference between OBD I and II in that respect is that II watches the cat, I does not.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I don't have any OBD II diagnosis equipment, however I have an OBD I reader. I also know absolutely nothing about switching over to OBD II diagnostics and what would be involved, hence my hesitation.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

yeah dont swap to OBDII.. totally not needed.. a 95 ecu will be OBD-I

 

[Ridgerunner]

Sounds like a step by step Tech article needs to be written with lots of pictures.

 

[Fellro]

Ah yes, 94-5, the bastard years... Can't say on Ford, but GM and Chrysler sure couldn't make up their mind if they wanted to have OBD I or II... you can find both on them in those years.

Got to thinking, is the second O2 downstream, or on the other bank? OBD II tends to go to 4 O2's... at least on V types.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

My reading indicates one on each bank.

Ryan

 

[Fellro]

I stand corrected then. Got ahead of myself, guess I deal with too many 4 poppers any more...

OBD II as far as diagnosis is very much the same as OBD I, just different plug, and more codes, as well as a few more sensors. Overall, the basics are the same. For O2, you have bank 1, sensor 1, then bank 1 sensor 2 (after cat) and then it is bank 2, sensor 1, bank 2 sensor 2. OBD I only looks at bank 1 and bank 2.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Does anyone have any reason to believe mass air flow equipment from a 1995 Econoline with the 5.8L and E4OD won't work?

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

key thing... make DAMN sure that its a E4OD.

SHOULD WORK!!!!! the routing of the intake hose's and location of the MAF sensor may be different.. but the main loom and ECU is what you MAINLY need. anything else ya can figure out.. the ECU and wiring harness is your biggest hurdle.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I got all my mass air flow equipment EXCEPT the ECU. I will probably just need to source one of those on the net. I've seen some on ebay that will work.

Ryan

 

[m78]

I'd like to jump to the last page to see how this turns out, I can't wait, it's like Christmass.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

So... I finished the tear down. Everything looks stellar.

I didn't even need an extractor to get the pistons out. They just slid out gently. I am in utter disbelief on how little wear there was on the bottom end of this motor. The only ring that showed wear was the main bearing near the rear main. It was beginning to show a little copper through the plating.

I have a little slack in the timing chain.

The craptacular stock Ford camshaft:

A typical piston... they were all very clean, all rings were reasonably worn, no serious blow by.

My first couple piston/rod combos out.

Got 'em all out.

Crank is out!

Here are the piston walls from down below. I know the camera isn't that great but these cylinder walls are clean as a $*%@!%er

Ryan

 

[SuperCab]

Is it my eyes or can you still see the crosshatch in the cylinders?

Looks like you've got alot to work with. Did you run synthetic oil???

 

[O'Rattlecan]

For a while (when oil was more affordable) I ran synthetic, but I switched to Motorcraft Synthetic blend about 60,000 miles ago.

And I don't think it's your eyes....

Ryan

 

[SuperCab]

Do a good job with the rebuild and you'll get another 200,000mi out of that thing...

You may not even need to go .010 out on those...

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Wouldn't that be wild...? If I didn't even have to machine those it would save some serious cash and make parts really easy.

Ryan

 

[SuperCab]

It happens. Running synthetic oil and keeping it changed regularly works wonders on an engine.

If all the cylinders look like what I'm seeing in the pictures, I'd just hone it to break the glaze and put it together.

I don't know how much you trust your machinist, but don't let him sell you a bore out if the block doesn't need it...