My first engine pull/rebuild - 1994 351w

[mrxlh]

I think they gave a price for the bottom end assembly, not the actual total cost. If the block check, bore job, hanging the pistons and assembly and all were only $225, I would be all over it.

I read it that way as well, $225 for short block assembly over and above what the bore and hone was going to cost. That said, $225 still seems kind of steep to put something together that you already paid for to be measured.

 

[5.0Flareside]

the thing that i dont think yall are realizing is this is Ryan's first tear down a rebuild.. he's never done it. and he's not 100% comfortable to putting the shortblock together correctly. And he wants it done right the first time.

so i can understand him wanting to go this route.

so think about it.. 200 something bucks extra to make sure it's done right.. really aint bad.. the top end getting put together aint hard. you dont have to do much to that..

he's mostly worried about clearances and rig gaps and the cam bearings.


definatly understandable as to why this is a viable option. honestly i'd do it..

 

[Fellro]

Trust me, I do understand wanting it done right and not knowing, that is me with quarter panel replacement. However, if it is something he truly wants to learn, and it is just a stock motor, not a high performance race motor. Ring end gap is not so critical on a general stock motor, and if the machine shop did their job right, should be fine. I won't argue on the cam bearings. Lester's trick likely works well, but generally isn't that costly an option to have done after the block is all prepped. Timing the cam is likely the actual hardest thing to do, which isn't that hard anyway. The trick is knowing for sure which mark is used, since some gears are not marked real nice. Got burned on one once, had different markings that threw me off, the big obvious marking was not the one I needed, it was the tiny little dot.. Otherwise, simply getting the rings on the pistons in the right direction, spacing the gaps so they aren't directly above each other, using the ring compressor properly, and get them popped in is the worst of it. All of that can be talked through. Can't learn by having others do it, but in the end, it will be his choice all the same. I didn't have the internet or mentor looking over my shoulder when I learned, just a Chilton's manual for my first build. It can be scary, but it really isn't that bad. Now if it were a race motor that had thousands invested, and the rings were zero gap, then it would be different.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

It's not so scary, but by the time I get the tools and whatnot, I'm not going to be that far behind on cost.

Here's my perspective, and it's not so much 'fear.' This truck is not going to get another rebuilt motor for at least another couple decades. I'm not trying to learn to be a mechanic, but this is a fun project for me. If this guy can put the bottom end together for me, I'm not too proud to let him do it.

And Vince, I see what you mean and I don't think I was very clear. The quote was for bottom end assembly. He's going to check out all the components and let me know what he thinks. I'm fully expecting and indicated a full bore job would be expected, so I'll need new pistons.

Ryan

 

[Fellro]

Only actual special tool you need is a torque wrench, which can be had on the loaner program at the parts stores that do that. If you really don't care to learn how to do it, then it is understandable to take the option. The fringe benefit then also is that they may give more of a guarantee on it since they assemble it.

 

[mrxlh]

And a dial indicator. Anyone using plastigauge and re-crushing a main or rod bearing is a fool.

 

[Fellro]

Heck, it is hard to find plastigage these days, or finding someone at the counter that even knows what it is...

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Right... a dial indicator. No idea what that is.

Ryan

 

[DNFXDLI]

Rotary micrometer

 

[FordF-SuperDuty]

Is it the same as a dial caliper?

 

[Fellro]

Used to check for movement. Plastigage is to check the oil clearance, the dial indicator can do the same by measuring the movement. Plasitgage requires putting a thin piece of plastic between the bearing and the crank, then torque the cap down to spec, remove the cap and measure the crush width of the plastic strip. Both read into the thousandths of an inch.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Small update! I'm not taking pictures while I put it back together. I know, I should get my hands slapped.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

Uhmmm..... Ya didn't paint it?!?

 

[kiwi f150]

^^^it's in "stealth mode" Chris

 

[O'Rattlecan]

No, I decided not to. The paint will look worse one day when it's cracking and peeling. I don't care how high they rate the paint, it never holds up.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

If its painted correctly and baked it does...

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I like it this way better, and no, it doesn't always happen correctly. Especially if the metal surface isn't totally clean, which it isn't perfect. I like it the way it is.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

Ok it's your engine your decision..

 

[mrxlh]

Looking good so far.

 

[SuperCab]

Lookin good man but you'll regret not painting it...

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