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Lowering on the Cheap

F 150Cobra

"Wild HoRsE" Got Torque?
3,642
104
Aruba
n your case just start removing springs leave 2 the longest and the medium one if you want also the shortest and see what it does you gotta keep trying and see there is no exact formula that i can tell you that will make your truck lowered and level
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
If you move down here to Florida we'll take care of..... Way I did it was I pull the lower springs buckets out so the spring is sittin right on the TTB....that dropped it bout 2 1/2 inches...then pulled a leaf out of the rear on each side and she sits level....You do it that way and you'll have to spend 60-70 bucks on adjustable camber bushings for the front to get the alignment right.


I will see you in FL when I come down for a visit.
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
If you move down here to Florida we'll take care of..... Way I did it was I pull the lower springs buckets out so the spring is sittin right on the TTB....that dropped it bout 2 1/2 inches...then pulled a leaf out of the rear on each side and she sits level....You do it that way and you'll have to spend 60-70 bucks on adjustable camber bushings for the front to get the alignment right.


I forgot to ask how does your truck ride and handle? Also do you have pictures of how you did the TTB?
 
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Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
Thanks for all the help. I know I can go ahead and get the rear dropped. That is going to be at least 3-4 leafs or more.
 

crzybil87

C.R.A.Z.Y.B.I.L.L
Rides good, handles good.....I don't like the way it acts when I spin the tires.....I get that pre-axle breakage feeling
easy fix to that put in a good ol 10.5"
 
Way I did it was I pull the lower springs buckets out so the spring
is sittin right on the TTB...
Cool idea. :)
Got a (important to me) question for you tho...
Did you notice that the spring "spacers" were different heights?
Did you compensate for that with a thin spacer on the passenger
side or did it turn out straight anyway? Or what? :)

Seems to me, I've got the same situation on my '91 Bronco as I did
with my '75, Ford -over compensated- for the passenger side being
heavier. Yeah there's a little difference, but not as much as they
seemed to want to compensate for, ...or something like that?

Alvin in AZ
 
easy fix to that put in a good ol 10.5"
...or 10.25? :)

But what about getting drums that have 5 lugs tho?
Are those made by anyone by any chance?

Since the wheel would center on the hub anyway, I bet a guy could drill an
8 lug drum and turn it into a 5 lug himself. :) ...ever read where a guy did
that?

Read on FSB where guys -get used to the idea- of repairing their 8.8's. :/

----------------

BTW, on -all my steel wheels- I've deepened the countersinks using a 1/2"
drill and 60 degree countersink so the lug nut would fit farther down and so
not get the end pinched and ruin the nut. Whoever came up with that little
bitty size standard for 16" steel pickup wheels is a butthead, for sure. ;)
My setup has got to be stronger etc.

Wow, since the wheels don't center on the hub and instead center on those
hole's countersinks, now wouldn't you expect countersinking them by hand
like that to ruin the self-centering of the wheel? LOL :)

I did! :)
...but it didn't!
No kidding.

Tested the idea on a (side to side only) crooked wheel first.

I have an extra I-beam, knuckle and rotor and I removed the grease and cut
the seal back and oiled the bearings. That whole works clamps into the vise
and it's sensitive to 1/4oz when I'm patient with it. Easy as pie to check a
wheel for out-of-round and wobble with a felt-tip marker. Believe it? :)

Alvin in AZ
 

flareside_thunder

Florida Chapter member
7,812
246
It's not literally a pre-breakage feeling but it could cause that...the spring pack is weaker so therefore I have more axle wrap......get it? I did not notice a different in spring bucket height for mine at all whatsoever....I even measured em and they came out the same....
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I went to Auto Zone today and got a lift or lowering block kit but I cheaped out and didn't get the blocks just the U bolts. I hope they will stretch a 1/8 in to go over the axle. I plan to remove the upper and lower helper springs and the upper spacer which will leave a 4 spring pack. I hope it will drop it 3 inches or better.

100_2197.jpg
 

flareside_thunder

Florida Chapter member
7,812
246
Yes, I had to buy that kit when I lifted my truck before......the ubolts will do what you need them to but most likely you'll need a monster pair of channel locks to pinch the Ubolts together to get them to fit into the spring plate....clear as mud?
 
...but most likely you'll need a monster pair of channel locks to pinch the
Ubolts together to get them to fit into the spring plate....clear as mud?
Don't know, but seems to me it'd be better to change their shape over an
anvil horn (or what ever you can scrounge) with a hammer or just bending.

What do you think?

For sure the steel they are made from is "plastic" enough for reshaping.

Alvin in AZ
 

Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
Yes, I had to buy that kit when I lifted my truck before......the ubolts will do what you need them to but most likely you'll need a monster pair of channel locks to pinch the Ubolts together to get them to fit into the spring plate....clear as mud?

I measured and there is a 1/8 in difference so I have a few clamps that I can use to get it all together.
 
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Ridgerunner

Missouri Chapter member
23,457
573
Stillwater Ok
I guess it will depend on how much of a drop I get. Looks like it could be at least 3 inches.
 

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