one of the photos shows a receipt for rust protection, dated 2/79...the same month the inservice date on the owners warranty card...but obviously it could have been recoated anytime...also don't like how high the temperature gauge is in that one photo (regardless of the fact that the factory...

was there a jumper wire on the steering ragjoint where the column connects under the hood?

I would check simple things like the neutral start switch before replacing any parts...if you have a voltmeter, check for 12v on the small connector closest to the firewall with the key in crank.when you say jumping the solenoid, are you jumping from the battery post to the first small post...

well said.

I would check for vacuum leaks and make sure your choke is functioning properly. When you swapped the intake, did you remove the distributor? if so, double-check your timing.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4674739770.html

I agree with Bill that someone just swapped a 140" wheelbase box onto your f100...I can't tell from the pics, but it looks like the box is extra close to the cab, and it looks like the rear wheel is toward the front of the wheelwell opening.

you might have an f-350 super camper special with swapped fender from and f-100.

that's not a spare tire carrier, that is just a bedside toolbox.Here is what they look like:outside inside

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4601037599.html

1996 Taurus 3.0 v6, runs great during cool weather...if temperatures get above 90 degrees, car starts stalling/missing after driving a while, almost acts like a vapor lock. After it cools down it runs fine again.Fuel pump has been replaced, coil pack has been replaced. Could the crank...

it worked out well. Obviously with the myriad of different 4350's over the years you might not get an exact match (the one I received had a fuel bowl vent, my original didn't)....otherwise I installed it and it fired right up. The core I returned wasn't in the best of shape, but they returned my...

the top one is close to me, so if you are interested in it and he is unwilling to ship, I can possibly go pick it up and ship it to you...the other one is about an hour and a half away...

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/3922985144.html http://topeka.craigslist.org/pts/3839659746.html

I assume it worked before? if so, did you correctly adjust the actuator rod for the new master cylinder? if not it may be applying the brakes all the time (that would explain why cracking the bleeder released the pressure).