Working on the Ranger.

[78F250SCCS]

After going over the Ranger the other day I noticed how rough it really is getting. Both sides of the windshield at the bottom corners have cracked, from what I have no clue. After I removed the bedliner, I was shocked to see how bad the box was rusting. I will have to replace the box. First thing for me is to redo the brake line, all the lines under the hood loosened off nice. I'll be able to re-use all the fittings. I lent out my flaring kit and one of the flaring bits? i guess you could call it, never came back and guess what one I need. I have to go order a new bit. After messing around on the truck for a couple days I have two questions.
1.The serpentine belt tensioner, is it spring loaded? when I moved mine to loosen the belt it did not spring back. Any other one I've worked on all sprung back to its original position.
2. Do I have to remove my rear brakes to be able to remove my axle shafts so I can replace my rear seals.

 

[john112deere]

1. I believe your tensioner is spring-loaded, yes. (I know my '97 4-banger is...) I've seen 'em where they didn't spring back but when the belt was replaced seemed to work OK...if it were my truck, I'd replace it, though.

2. The brake drum will have to come off, but that's it. Depending on wear, you might have to adjust the brake shoes in so the drum will come off. (Actually, if the shoes aren't in the way, you could leave the drum rusted stuck to the axle and take 'em out together, but the drum still comes off the truck.)

 

[78F250SCCS]

Thanks for the fast reply. I thought that the tensioner should have sprung back. I'll try and get some penetrating oil in there to loosen it up. If that doesn't work then I'll have to replace it. I had the drums off already. I didn't know if I had to remove all the springs and pads to remove the axle shaft. Its been a while since I had to change a rear seal and I don't really remember.

 

[john112deere]

Drums were all I removed from the rear brakes to do axle seals.

My tensioner snapped in two, so there wasn't much question about whether to replace it.

 

[78F250SCCS]

I got most of the air conditioning stuff out. My belt needs to be replaced, but I was planning on it anyway because I need a shorter belt after removing the air compressor pump. How do you remove the fan? If I need a new tensioner it looks like the fan will be a pain to work around.

 

[smokey]

Fan doesn't need to come out. Just go in to the idler from below.

 

[78F250SCCS]

I've got the air conditioning core out and I want to remove the entire box and cut it down to make it just heat and no a/c. Has anyone ever removed one before. I got every screw out that I can see. It seems like its holding at the bottom of the box. I looked on the inside of the cab on the fire wall for a bolt and could not see anything. The only other thing I can think of is removing the inner fender to get at the bottom of the box to see if there is a screw there. That leads to my second question. How are the factory fender flares attached? I kind of messed with it a bit but I don't want to break any tabs or whatever is holding them on. I'm thinking of taking all the flares off. I think there is a lot of rust under them. I might have to replace the front fenders. The more I work the more I find. I have to make this truck last at least two more years. The box liner and flares really hid alot when I first checked this truck over. At least the cab is solid.

 

[78F250SCCS]

I got the new tensioner in, and the belt for a non a/c 3.0 fits. The guy at the part store didn't think it would work. I changed the leaking break lines under the hood. After bleeding all the breaks and a little test drive in the drive way the brakes went spongy again. Look under the truck to find out the main rear line popped somewhere along side the gas tank. Whats with the coil around the break lines anyway? So I started removing all the lines from the back. Can't save anything. I'm doing the lines myself. I got 25' of break line and all the ends I need plus new bleeders. I have a new flex line that I had for my 78 that should work. I got it to fit the brackets from the original flex line. I just have to get one more end out of the left side rear brake that's being a royal pain and hopefully have it all back together buy the end of the weekend.

 

[smokey]

the wire coil is there to prevent line wear at least that was what I was told. I think it is there to hold salt and moisture to make them rust faster.