Trans Swap

[bigun72]

Well i know im not very active on here , but non of the other ford forums care about older trucks so it brings me back to FTF ......

so my auto in my 77 crapped on me , so i said fug it and decided to swap in a 4 speed...... i found all the parts i needed

4spd trans - $200
bellhousin - $75
Flywheel - $50
Pedals w/all linkage & brackets - $30

I dont like much now ..... i got all my pedals and everything in , i just need to mount the bellhousin and figure out how to mount the brackets.... one bracket is suppose to bolt to the motor but my motor dont have holes where it bolts , so ill have to figure somthin out on that......

should i get the flywheel turned ? the guy i got it from said to just sand it down


heres some pics ....

 

[m78]

one bracket is suppose to bolt to the motor but my motor dont have holes where it bolts , so ill have to figure somthin out on that......

should i get the flywheel turned ? the guy i got it from said to just sand it down

QUOTE]

What is this bracket for ? And yes on the turning the flywheel.

 

[bigun72]

Its the clutch linkage bracket that bolts to the block, and the other bracket bolts on top of the framerail

 

[Alvin in AZ]

Its the clutch linkage bracket that bolts to the block,
and the other bracket bolts on top of the frame rail

Yeah that's right, it does on an FE.
I just crawled under my '75 F150 with a flashlight.
I don't have a good picture right now maybe tomorrow?

The machined surface and holes are on the opposite side from this side...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/fe390crank.jpg

Here's another picture that won't help you much either... LOL
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100-FEbell.jpg

If it doesn't go on the bellhousing and your block doesn't have the holes,
you can just drill and tap some because it won't be -that- critical where
they are.

What engine you got? 351m?

Alvin in AZ
ps- Here's another picture but this one you might actually like?
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100-T18.jpg
pps- and two more while I'm at it...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg

 

[73F100Shortbed]

You should resurface the flywheel but I put a clutch on a flywheel worse than that and had no problem. I would recommend resurfacing it though.

 

[bigun72]

i have a 400 in my truck ..... no more than i drive this truck ima just sand the flywheel and slap it on

 

[bigun72]

and dam i manhandled my trans and tcase out , i never thought bout usin my cherrypicker

 

[Alvin in AZ]

and dam i manhandled my trans and tcase out ,
i never thought bout usin my cherrypicker

You didn't?

Did you even look at the pictures I posted for you? LOL
I have to make 'em flash on the screen?

The T18 like it is there without the bellhousing is only ~150#.
Add the flywheel, pressure plate and cast iron bellhousing
and it all adds up to be about the same as an E4od = ~230#.

ZF is about the same, its weight is in its gears not its case
but minus the 30+# cast iron bellhousing it comes in under
200#.

Smashed the crap out of the first bathroom scales I tried
when weighing the E4od! LOL

------------------------

Made yourself a couple of these yet?

Here's one of 'em in "action"...

Work great for going back together and for pulling it part both.
Support the rear of the transmission on its rear crossmember,
it'll slide in and out like it's on rails! (because it is)

The ZF slid right up to the engine's locating pins, as shown in
the picture, with a simple push from my foot.

Made those guide pins in late '79, lately I've made one more
but it's about 1/2" shorter, haven't used it yet but I suggest
you make one 6" and another 5+1/2". The bolts can be had
from the wrecking yard (if you don't want to buy new ones).
Ford etc used long 7/16" bolts for alternators.

They don't needed to be sissyed-up like mine with dog-noses
or slotted for a screwdriver either. LOL

Alvin in AZ

 

[primetime]

I watched a guy sand one down once with a DA. However, it was aluminum and in a Mustang. Did it once myself during a particularly broke period. Not real sure if it was that or the clutch that caused the chatter.

As far as your pivot, I would imagine that there is supposed to be a bracket that bolts on with the bellhousing bolts. I bought a 78 F-150 with a 302/3 speed in pieces several years ago (same one I sanded the flywheel), and they either lost the bracket or pivot stud. I made a bracket off a 76 with a 360/4-speed fit. Than when I swapped in a 4-speed, I combined that ball and a bolt and screwed that into the block. That made things alot better.

 

[BuzzGun79]

If i was doing this swap myself,for the work that is involved,i would spend a few extra bucks & get the flywheel turned not sanded,& install a new clutch assembly & t.o. bearing as well.but that is me.i dont like to do things of this magnitude twice by lisening to someones b.s.been there done it wont repeat it.do it right the first time.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

Doggonit. :/

Wouldn't it depend on what condition the flywheel was in to start with
whether the flywheel needed resurfacing on the surface grinder or just
a hand sanding would do it?

If it was working good before chances are it'll work good again, there's
no hav'ta'z.

Ever'time 'cept one-time I had the flywheel resurfaced. That one time
is still in the truck and I didn't hand sand it or nuthin'! Only replaced
the wallered-out oil-lite pilot bearing with a new 6303 ball bearing and
put it back together as an experiment. Best+longest lasting clutch that
'75 F150 ever had in it. Yes, better than the one that came in it brand
spanking new is included in that rant.

I noticed the crummy clutch while leaving the dealer's lot on the test
drive. It had 14.1 miles on it, thought it'd get better with break-in. :/
Oops. I was young and dumb, I just barely turned 22.

Remember grade school and how the true/false tests were easy to spot
because they used words like "always" and "never" etc?

The same rules still apply. LOL

Alvin in AZ
ps- I was young 'n' dumb then next thing I knew I was old 'n' stupid.
What happened to the "in between part"? :/

 

[bigun72]

I have a brand new clutch pp n thro brng. I sanded the flywheel down and checkd it with a straight edge, its perdy smooth n flat. Also found out my dam tcase wont bolt to my trans.


Pics

 

[BuzzGun79]

to each is own, the one i sanded back in the day was also flat & smooth,so i went ahead and assembled it,worse mistake i ever made.the clutch not only chatered,but slipped under load pulling a small camper.its kinda like changing your brake pads & not turning the rotors,its going to glaze up in a hurry by not resurfacing.your truck,your choice.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

to each is own, the one i sanded back in the day was also flat & smooth,so
i went ahead and assembled it,worse mistake i ever made.the clutch not only
chattered,but slipped under load pulling a small camper.its kinda like changing
your brake pads & not turning the rotors,its going to glaze up in a hurry by
not resurfacing.your truck,your choice.

Wow, cool Buzzard Gun!
I wish I could say that! LOL

Worse mistake I ever made was getting married. :/
YMMV

I betcha money the chattering clutch was caused by the pressure plate
being out of adjustment (do you check their adjustment every time?) or
something along those lines (something was crooked) as opposed to the
flywheel's surface texture.

Alvin "jackrabbit 30-30" in AZ

 

[BuzzGun79]

well when i tore it back down & ressufaced the fly wheel,all was well after that,used the same clutch & pressure plate.live n learn my friend,how long you been married..lol..i know to long..lol j/k

 

[Alvin in AZ]

well when i tore it back down & ressufaced the fly wheel,
all was well after that,used the same clutch & pressure plate.

Well... I guess that shoots my theory down. LOL

The problem I've been having with my '75 points to bad bellhousing alignment.
Since the last time I took it apart I rebuilt the rear axle and so bought a dial
indicator with a magnetic base. Next time I take it apart I'll find out what's
what with it. But no kidding... and it was tough to do too... all I did was take
it apart and swap out the pilot bearing and put it back together. And it's the
best clutch it's ever had. Still not perfect tho. :/

Here's a picture of the tool I came up with for pulling the wallered-out pilot
bronze oil-lite bearing it'd have every time after a measly 15 to 20k miles...

..7/16" fine thread bolt 'n 'nut and a grinder is all it takes to make one.

Alvin in AZ

 

[bigun72]

i found a intermediate housing , theres 2 dif lengths..... how do i know which length i need?