Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap

[Mil1ion]

Just sitting here waiting for TECH questions

D

 

[John in AZ]

sounds like low oil pressure or maybe just a sticky lifter

 

[Mil1ion]

Tick Tick Tick Tick Tick




























scratchhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

[fatherdoug]

Okay, Dennis,

78 F-150,49 state emissions, stock 400 engine, stock 2150 carburetor, still has working egr.

Truck starts almost immediately in the morning, even below zero, after choke has been set. RPM's go up to about 1200 rpm momentarily, then dies. I go through this routine about three more times before engine stays running. RPMS climb to about 1800 rpm and remain there until I bump the gas bottle, then runs at 800 rpm.

The choke is closing. The carb was rebuilt two years ago. The only issue that was noticed with carb when rebuilt was the throttle plate shaft was leaking, due to excess wear.

Also, when I am ready to leave in the morning, if I step on the brake, then the engine dies(loss of vacuum?), then restarts immediately with no problems.

The truck runs very well in other than cold start conditions.

I do not have the sticker on the valve cover for calibration codes.

 

[Mil1ion]

sounds like a vacuum related issue...check the vacuum line down at the transmission where is connects to the Modulator. Usually leaks are found there

Do you still have the electric solenoid on the carb .

see chart for 7-74-R10 for settings

http://mil1ion.clubfte.com/78CalibrationCoding&Tune-upSpecs.html

 

[fatherdoug]

sounds like a vacuum related issue...check the vacuum line down at the transmission where is connects to the Modulator. Usually leaks are found there

Do you still have the electric solenoid on the carb .

see chart for 7-74-R10 for settings

http://mil1ion.clubfte.com/78CalibrationCoding&Tune-upSpecs.html

Thanks Dennis. First off, the choke is set at 2 rich, and the calibration chart calls for 3 rich, so I will change that. I Will also check the vacuum line to the modulator. The vacuum tree at the back of the engine is loose. I am assuming that should be tight(it can be rotated by hand).

I don't think I have the solenoid on the carb. Where would that be located?

 

[Mil1ion]

 

[Mil1ion]

#4

 

[fatherdoug]

Yes, it still has the solenoid. Is that the anti-stall dashpot? I forgot to mention it is an automatic transmission.

 

[Mil1ion]

All those parts have to be adjusted and working the way they should .

One also has to allow for years of wear and tear.

 

[smokeyb97]

I have a small issue with my engine. It has valve train ticking only after warming up. It is a 351M/408 with non-adjustable Scorpion roller rockers, oem heads, Tmeyer 9.3:1 pistons and Comp 255 DEH cam. I don't understand why it has this valve train ticking only after warm-up and not when cold? Any thoughts as to why this is happening? Could it be the roller rockers?

 

[lostinfords]

Here is a question...I have a 78 bronco, auto, a/c ..starts up warm or cold runs great, put it in drive, accelerate to highway speed, slow down to turn left or right off the highway ..step back on the gas and it seems to 'stumble/pause/hesitate' unless you feather the pedal and it goes on like no problem ..carb was rebuilt and cleaned out ..tried the recommended setting for the accelarator pump as well as other trials, changed accel. pump diaphragm...just been using it as it is, works fine for me..cuz' I know it's quirks ..but the wife can't deal w/ it like it is so she refuses to drive it

 

[Truckin4life]

Lost in fords: sounds like a fuel filter or fuel pump.

 

[LEB Ben]

Here is a question...I have a 78 bronco, auto, a/c ..starts up warm or cold runs great, put it in drive, accelerate to highway speed, slow down to turn left or right off the highway ..step back on the gas and it seems to 'stumble/pause/hesitate' unless you feather the pedal and it goes on like no problem ..carb was rebuilt and cleaned out ..tried the recommended setting for the accelarator pump as well as other trials, changed accel. pump diaphragm...just been using it as it is, works fine for me..cuz' I know it's quirks ..but the wife can't deal w/ it like it is so she refuses to drive it

My first guess woulda been acc. pump, but since you fiddled with that...how's your float level?

And maybe unrelated...but I had the exact same symptoms you're describing a couple times before, and the only correlation I can make is the difference between a cheapy fuel pump and a quality fuel pump. I've literally toyed around a couple afternoons with the Bronco and Red swapping AZ/Advanced/O'Reilly's/Napa house brand fuel pumps with a couple Holley/Eddy fuel pumps. I would keep exchanging the cheapies til I got one that worked...never did find one that appeased me from AZ/Advance/O'Reilly's...NAPA seemed to be hit or miss, but I never had an issue with the Holley's or Edelbrock fuel pumps.

 

[Derfus]

I was noticing my oil pressure was on the low side after my truck warmed up (it runs a little on the warm side) but didnt really sweat it since I had read the 351m was well known to do that. I always keep an eye on my gauges and at a light it all but bottomed out on the oil pressure gauge. When I took off again it would pick back up on the gauge. I've since gotten a temp and oil pressure gauge and hope to get them hooked up soon. Until then I pulled my thermostat to swap it for a cooler one and ended up going back with no thermostat. My truck runs cooler (duh) and I have great oil pressure now. Besides not getting warm enough to have heat (cant seem to get the wiring right still), is there any down side to running with no stat? If not I'll be skipping the Taurus fan upgrade!

 

[Mil1ion]

If that engine doesn't run at normal temp you are WASTING fuel,causing extra engine wear.

NO LESS than 180* in Ford Engines.
It was engineered to run at 207*F with the Ethylene Glycol/water mixture at 50/50