Rear Disc Brake conversion

[Jotun]

Anyone done this on a Dana 60 Rear?

Would this work on our trucks?

http://www.ncspecialties.com/autobody/reardisc/index.htm

 

[LEB Ben]

Should work, that guy is pretty knowledgeable and is over on FSB. I know another guy on my local site selling D60 disc kits for about $350 too.

 

[5.0]

What about these?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/d60-rear-disc-brake-bracket-ford-77-newer-p-372.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/d60-rear-disc-brake-bracket-ford-76-older-p-357.html

The GM rotors and calipers are pretty cheap. I would use hoses from the front of a '79 Chevette, they are rubber about 12" long. Unless you already own the Ford parts.

 

[5.0]

I know another guy on my local site selling D60 disc kits for about $350 too.

What's included in this kit? Link?

Here's what I can put one together for...

37 x 2 = 74 rotors
31 x 2 = 62 calipers (subtract $28 after I return some cores)
14 x 2 = 28 brake hoses
50 x 1 = 50 brackets

$214 plus machine work to the rotors

 

[LEB Ben]

Ask, and ye shall receive:

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33832

 

[5.0]

Thanks. That's certainly a complete kit!

 

[Jotun]

Awesome I will be doing this soon!

 

[RustyCJ]

You guys suck! As if I don't have enough stuff to do to the truck already.

Looks like a pretty nice kit and a decent price though. Thanks for the link Ben.

 

[LEB Ben]

Not a problem...the guy selling those kits is a really nice guy, really professional, quick to ship and great prices. FYI...that's the same guy with a gold mine of D60 fronts that he sells pretty cheap.

 

[RustyCJ]

I haven't looked into this until now, first question - this will work with the existing master cylinder, proportioning valve? Now I'm thinking before I put money into the rear drums, it might not be a bad idea to just convert it over now.

 

[5.0]

In the article at the top the guy claims he used the same master cylinder, booster, and prop valve.

I've done a few rear drum to disc conversions over the years (including some GM too) and have never switched anything else in the brake system.

The best way to do it is to swap to the discs, then drive it and see how it does. You can make changes then if needed, although you probably won't have to.

I'm thinking the guys who really need the prop valves and master cylinders are the guys swapping from FRONT drum to disc.

 

[miottimouse]

i 2nd that i did not need to change any thing either on my conversion stops fast and straight with no lockup [see my gallery for pics] the only complaints i have with the gm setup is you need to remove caliber and turn upside down to bleed them the 1st time as bleeder screws are on the bottom and you cant get all the air out any other way that i could see 2nd is the grip/holding power of the ebrake seems weak to me compared to drums but maybe they are not set up correctly and help on setting these up? i realy like the idea of the ford 2 pistion set up could be a real advantage in heavy hauling eg camper boat ect now if some one would make a drive shaft brake it would work fine but as it is now i could see it being a real problem depending on the trans park gear woudnt trust it regurds joe

 

[5.0]

with the gm setup is you need to remove caliber and turn upside down to bleed them the 1st time as bleeder screws are on the bottom

What if the calipers were swapped left to right, wouldn't the bleeder screw be pointing up then?

 

[miottimouse]

no tried that

 

[bucks77ford]

Ask, and ye shall receive:

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33832

Wanting to do this on my 75 and 77 F250s. Looks like a great kit. Just looking for some input from those who have used it or any other kits. Is the conversion worth it? (ya, reviving an old thread).

 

[fatherdoug]

You guys suck! As if I don't have enough stuff to do to the truck already.

Looks like a pretty nice kit and a decent price though. Thanks for the link Ben.

Is that all that is invloved with a conversion, or is the proportioning valve involved also?

 

[m78]

Hey Doug,

When I first did this conversion back in 1991 On my one ton, I was told that I would have to replace the master cylinder, proportioning valve, and vacuum booster. I did not replace those items I figured I would try it first and then go from there I recommend the same for your setup, everything worked good for me so I left the rest of the brake stuff alone.

This quotes from the article in the first link at the beginning of this thread.

It looks like a nice upgrade

 

[fatherdoug]

Thanks, Mark.