Question on side trim removal

[ihc120]

Hey there everyone,

I just picked up this very nice F350 CS and I need to remove the side trim. There looks to be some minor metal oxidation going on along the edges of the trim that I would like to treat in preparation for new paint job. What is the method for removing this trim? Any special tool needed?

Thanks, and heres a pic.

 

[CaFordDude]

Nice lookin truck

 

[1973 F-100 4x4]

Nice truck indeed!

 

[Ranger429]

Front fenders and doors have an acorn nut on each end then plastic clips that retain the molding. On the bed by the taillight there is an acorn nut that needs to come off. Remove the tallight housing and you can get to it. The rest are all plastic clips that hold the molding on. The molding simply snaps over the plastic clip.

Find yourself an LMC catalogue and they show exactly what clip is where so you have an idea what your doing.

 

[dentside79]

That’s a rare truck! I looked for one like that for years and years with no luck. It looks to be in good shape to which makes it that much more rare.

 

[dentside79]

They make a molding removal tool that aids in the removal of the chrome, however, it is not necessary. It would be a good idea to buy new plastic clips due to the brittle nature of the original ones. On the bed molding there is a metal clip about half way that can get damaged if you jerk it. As long as you do not bend this metal clip you should be in good shape. I would shoot some WD-40 on the acorn nuts thought because it is very easy to snap the studs off at the molding. Also, be careful not to bend the moldings inward because it can create slack in the grove for the rubber insert. You don't want your rubber strip dragging the asphalt

 

[Mil1ion]

 

[LEB Ben]

That’s a rare truck! I looked for one like that for years and years with no luck. It looks to be in good shape to which makes it that much more rare.

Shoulda checked sleezebay, there are always a couple good ones on there.

 

[dakonthemountain]

Thanks Dennis for the diagrams! I will be doing this later this spring in the prep for the repaint of Burt (its' gonna cost a fortune and I have to save wherever possible!) and was wondering the best way to remove the trim also. I assume the plastic will break when I remove the trim; or does it slide off after removing the acorn nuts?
Dak

 

[miottimouse]

welcome to the site!! 2nd that use lots of wd 40 or simular on the nuts for few days to remove with out breaking the studs could be seized up pretty good after 30 odd years also on those camper mirrors remove the door panal and lubercate from the inside,use a vise grip lightly to hold the pop nut from turning or you will have to grind them off [a real bear] being there done that

 

[ihc120]

Alright! Thanks for the responses and diagrams. I'll tackle this when the weather is more reliable.That will give me tome to find a nice tailgate. There was a camper in the bed of this truck since new and the original tailgate went missing years ago. Next week the wheels will be powder coated white and then new tires put on. Yesterday new dual exhaust with 36 inch glasspacks was installed. That 460 sounds real nice now.

 

[bucks77ford]

Nice diagrams Dennis. Putting my chrome back on will be a challange. I'm going with the Racetrack style since my bed has it, but the rest of the truck has new doors and fenders so I'll have to drill new holes for it all. Man I hate drilling new holes in new painted body parts. I've been putting off installing my F250 Ranger XLT badges. I have the standard 4 holes for the F250 Ranger, but I need to drill other other two for the XLT part. I'll probably be sweathing alot when I do all this drilling.

 

[LEB Ben]

I'll say a prayer to the bodywork gods for ya Buck...I know that feeling...doesn't seem to go away no matter how experienced you are. Hell...I still get nervous when I use fishing line to remove the emblems to clean that part of the cowl.

 

[Mil1ion]

If you lay some masking tape down first ...........it doesn't hurt as much

 

[bucks77ford]

If you lay some masking tape down first ...........it doesn't hurt as much

Yeah, that was my plan. Lay down some masking tape, trace a template for my chrome where it should be, decide where mount mounting tabs should go and start drilling. I think I'll just use some stainless steel screws for the mounting tabs instead of rivets.

BTW, sorry to get off topic.

 

[Ranger429]

I have the standard 4 holes for the F250 Ranger, but I need to drill other other two for the XLT part.

Grind off the tits and use some two faced tape to put the XLT badge on.

 

[m78]

Make a template and drill that first. If you make a mistake you can throw it out and try again. When the emblem fits correct on the template then use it to mark your holes on the truck.The template also gives your a straight edge to be aligned with the other emblem.

You can do the same for the race track trim

I use real thin plastic.It works well with alot of things like cabinet hardware,door knobs,especially when you have multiples to install

 

[dakonthemountain]

Ok, I still don't understand. does is slide off or does one have to break the plastic tabs after removing the acorn nuts. I'm dense sometimes...
Dak

 

[73F100Shortbed]

Grind off the tits and use some two faced tape to put the XLT badge on.

Why did I never think of this before? I've been figuring out forever how to put my emblems on the bed since someone drilled the holes backward so it would say "XLT Ranger". Thanks for posting this idea!

 

[bucks77ford]

Ok, I still don't understand. does is slide off or does one have to break the plastic tabs after removing the acorn nuts. I'm dense sometimes...
Dak

It pops off once the acorn nuts are removed. It should come relatively easy. Just make sure you get all the acorn nuts off.