Painting My Truck

[78FordTruck78]

Hi All

I'm looking to sand down my truck, make repairs, and prime it myself. Any suggestions on the step i should take to do so. Any tricks someone has learned to speed the process up for me? What is the best sand paper, sander, bondo, primer, etc..

Thanks

 

[Mil1ion]

air tools and supplies from a body shop supply store

 

[surewhynot]

How is the paint on it now? If it's the original paint and in decent condition, you can get away with sanding it and painting over. If there are multiple coats of thick cracked paint, you are better off stripping. (The paint, not yourself. )


As far as paper, any cheap sandpaper will do the job, but you don't save any money in the long run. Cheap sand paper clogs up quick and doesn't last long. You can buy a better quality "open coat" paper, it costs more, but lasts alot longer.

I have had real good luck doing inexpensive paint jobs using regular old laquer primer. It's about 40 bucks a gallon and sandable.

Bondo is another story. When used properly, there is nothing wrong with it. It should never be more than 1/16 to 1/8 thick. Any thicker and it will eventually show or even crack. There are different quality fillers (bondo) on the market. I like using Rage Gold. It seems to adhere great and not shrink as much as Bondo brand.

As far as paint goes, you have to decide on quality there too. A 2 stage (base, clear) is easier to work with IMO. You can have nice results with a single stage also though. If you go single, acrylic enamel seems to be pretty good. I like PPG's acrylic enamel as far as ease of spraying and overall finish and quality.

If you have any more specifics, just ask away.

 

[78FordTruck78]

The paint on it now is in fairly good condition. I started the other day stripping it all the way down on a door and fendor. I spoke to a few people and they mentioned it probably isn't necessary to strip it. When i did strip those two i went to Oriellys and purchased a couple cans of primer that is sandable. Will that primer work? I don't have any air tools so that is the reason i'm purchasing spray cans of primer. I plan on having someone professional spray on the actual paint.

 

[5.0Flareside]

they will end up wanting to go back and reprime it themselves if they are money hungry. which most business people are.

 

[smokey]

Tony is correct in all his suggestions.
If you leave the primer on for any length of time it will rust. primer does not seal out moisture.
2 stage paints are way easy to spray and get good results. The old single acrylic enamel it can produce wonderful results if you have your ratio's of thinner and hardener to paint correct. the last coat you will want to thin a bit more than the first coats to produce a better shine. But be warned the acrylic enamel is far less forgiving for a new painter than the 2 stage paints.

 

[bucks77ford]

Since you are thinking about having someone spray on the actual paint, I'd talk to that someone first. They might have some suggestions for ya because most painters really like to prime and paint so if there is a problem with paint chipping or flaking off after little time, then they are not liable and have the customer very unhappy.

 

[TexasNomad]

I'd love to paint my truck my self but I'd all ways been scared I'd Botch it..

 

[bucks77ford]

I'd love to paint my truck my self but I'd all ways been scared I'd Botch it..

Pretty much the reason I had someone else do the body work and paint mine. I had too much into my truck before I even thought about paint so I decided not to do my own body work which I've never done before. I've thought about trying another project and doing my own work and see what happens. It would be a budget project since all my money than now I don't have went into my current project.

 

[TexasNomad]

If I had a good Mig welder I would have done all my body work but i've never been able to seem to have the money at the time I am in the position to buy one

 

[brentleedragon]

If I had a good Mig welder I would have done all my body work but i've never been able to seem to have the money at the time I am in the position to buy one

aint that the truth

 

[NOCO77]

Just some of my thoughts as I am currently going through this process right now.

As stated before, don't skimp on the paper - your savings are minimal if any.

I use a 6" DA from HF (a Chicago Pneumatic, I believe) - it was cheap and has performed just fine. It is very hungry for air volume, though. My compressor is an 80 gallon with 14 cfm @ 90 psi and she still has to run a lot. I knock it down with 80 grit to start because it goes quickly. Just use cheap rattle can paint for your guide coats. When you find your low spots, take them to bare metal and extend several inches beyond all the way around it so the filler can feather in and get good adhesion. Filler bonds both mechanically and chemically. Rage Gold is good. I am currently using Evercoat Z-Grip. It has some fiberglass in it, and it adhere's to galvanized metal and aluminum well also. I knock down the filler with 80 grit also, but only using hand blocks.

Don't use rattle can primer for the final prime - it'll just have to come back off anyway. I am using it right now just to cover up some small bare metal areas, but have not covered the whole panel with it. Use catalyzed primer for final prime/seal, and I use the same brand as the paint just to be sure.

2-stage for sure, especially for the beginner, but if single stage, PPG is good, and Limco from R-M is good too. My truck will be done in CARIZZMA, a relatively new product from R-M.

Good luck, and just take your time - the prep work makes the completed product. I am very anal about my work. I had not done any bodywork before, but it is coming out very nice. I'm actually a little surprised how quickly I caught on.