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opinions on this block

5.0Flareside

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
well i think i found a block for my motor build its a 74 block out of a cougar. http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1564902476.html i was just on the phone for 10 minutes with the guy and the motor when pulled had a slight knock but when he disassembled it the connecting rod had started to come loose but no damage. he said the crank turns fine. i asked him bout how the cylinder walls look he said no scoring really but at the top of each cylinder wall there was a little ridge. idk if thats normal or not but he said i could probably get away with just having the block honed. gotta sell that dam downpipe so i have 0 dollars in this block. would be a great start.



so what do yall guys think? should i jump on the deal?
 

Dirky

1,320
82
Could be a good platform, it is cheap enough. That ridge at the top of the cylinder is a build up of carbon, no big deal though. He can't say whether you will get away with a hone or not because measurements have to be done to determine the wear on the cylinders.

IMO, I would go .010 over and start fresh, more if need be, but I don't like going more than .040 over, and wouldn't in a high performance application.

Before any work can begin, a tank and magnaflux should be done to check for cracks, sonic check the cylinder walls if you an afford.

I'll sell you a good 72' Windsor for $300 carb to pan. Includes all accessories, PS pump and all. D2AE-6015-BA-14


Go for it!
 
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wizzard351

wizzard351

ride'n on 35's
2,145
120
wi
$120 seems way to much for me(a junk yard here will sell'm all day long for 40 bucks). a 74 block aint realy nuttin great either. also double check to make shure ford didnt do the stupid thing like they did with the 302's,like change the balence on the crank shaft. a later flywheel would bolt up then vibrate the motor to death.
 
Blue Goose

Blue Goose

16,116
781
Fenton, Missouri
wizzard351 said:
also double check to make sure ford didnt do the stupid thing like they did with the 302's,like change the balance on the crank shaft. a later flywheel would bolt up then vibrate the motor to death.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that.....
 
conanski

conanski

457
33
Ontario, Canada
Any motor you buy will have to be completely disassembled and cleaned up, magnafluxed for cracks, and then mic'd to see how much machine work it needs. For this reason it's always better to buy a complete motor that was running when removed and has been stored intact out of the weather and not touched since... regardless how many miles it has on it. That pretty much ensures you will have usable parts that will only require a minimum of machine work to restore, but if the crank is scored or a rod bent then you'll blow your budget trying to fix or worse case have to junk it and find another motor.
 

Dirky

1,320
82
nflfreak43 said:
how many miles are on it derek?
Click to expand...

Hey Chris,

Sorry I couldn't get back to ya here, not sure if your interested or not... Kinda Forgot, been really busy lately.

The mot... *AHEM* engine has approx. 200,000 KM on it. It was swapped into a 66' mercury pickup which I pulled it out of, and the mileage is just word of mouth.

It's in storage storage right now, and the cylinders are filled with oil... The engine is pretty grimy internally, and would require a complete rebuild. Ran when pulled.
 

Dirky

1,320
82
nflfreak43 said:
ok so right around 120 k miles or so? well the build is on hold for a lil while. but in the fall when i get back to it if you still got it i may be interested.
Click to expand...

Yea, that would be just over 120K miles..

I've been thinking about building a mild performance motor out of this thing, if you would be interested. Just an idea I've been tossing around.
 

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