my truck

[71f250camper]

ok guys im not sure whats going on here. i thought the carb base gaskets were leaking so like any good person i changed them $6.50 no big deal. Now i was on lunch break at work(i work for the local honda car dealer no haters please) they have a parts cleaner there. If u work at a dealer u know what i mean. i did not and i repeat this did not take the carb apart. i didnt have a rebuild kit for it. Before i did this the bottem gasket was wet looked like gas not oil, and it was holding and loading. could smell alot of gas almost to the flood stage. Now it will flood itself out without hitting the gas if it turns long enough. I know what your thinking choked isnt set right. Well sorry guys already ahead of the game. the auto choke is set right the manual one u all think it should have has been replaced already. tonight on my way home from work it was running good no lagging or anything like that. let it sit 2 hours and left again and OMG its worse that it was when i started its like im not sure what to do here. they way it is i may have to do a full top end on a motor that was just rebuild for a mudder truck. guy said that sold the motor didnt have enough power for him went to a 427 i think or 460. i just dont know what to do here i have an exploder that runs when it wants too i mean litteral and i got the truck as a project/everyday driver kinda deal. cant have them both not running right and cant afford to do a top end on a motor ether. Suggestion anyone any help is nice.

thanks guys.

jeremy

 

[catatonichampster]

Hey Jeremy, I wish I had answers for you. Sometimes things just have to be taken to the shop. If you can't figure it out? Turn it over to the pros.

 

[elgemcdlf]

ok guys im not sure whats going on here. i thought the carb base gaskets were leaking so like any good person i changed them $6.50 no big deal. Now i was on lunch break at work(i work for the local honda car dealer no haters please) they have a parts cleaner there. If u work at a dealer u know what i mean. i did not and i repeat this did not take the carb apart. i didnt have a rebuild kit for it. Before i did this the bottem gasket was wet looked like gas not oil, and it was holding and loading. could smell alot of gas almost to the flood stage. Now it will flood itself out without hitting the gas if it turns long enough. I know what your thinking choked isnt set right. Well sorry guys already ahead of the game. the auto choke is set right the manual one u all think it should have has been replaced already. tonight on my way home from work it was running good no lagging or anything like that. let it sit 2 hours and left again and OMG its worse that it was when i started its like im not sure what to do here. they way it is i may have to do a full top end on a motor that was just rebuild for a mudder truck. guy said that sold the motor didnt have enough power for him went to a 427 i think or 460. i just dont know what to do here i have an exploder that runs when it wants too i mean litteral and i got the truck as a project/everyday driver kinda deal. cant have them both not running right and cant afford to do a top end on a motor ether. Suggestion anyone any help is nice.

thanks guys.

jeremy

Sounds like a stuck float.

 

[71f250camper]

no floats not stuck there is some play in the main butterflys at the bottem. tried to reset carb and the response is not there. i found the parts im going to get for top end. part number in ether summit or jegs is k33-224-3 tell me what u think there. Oh anyone have a good 2 barrel motorcraft or autolite carb they want to sell i dont want 4 barrel if so let me know. if it needs to be rebuild thats fine as long as the shafts not wore to the point like mine.
thanks guys

jeremy

 

[71f250camper]

oh u guys would happen to know the valve size on the factory heads would u?
im getting heads but they are all taken apart and cooked already so its just the casts i get thats why i was thinking about getting that whole kit so i have new springs and seats.

 

[elgemcdlf]

no floats not stuck there is some play in the main butterflys at the bottem. tried to reset carb and the response is not there. i found the parts im going to get for top end. part number in ether summit or jegs is k33-224-3 tell me what u think there. Oh anyone have a good 2 barrel motorcraft or autolite carb they want to sell i dont want 4 barrel if so let me know. if it needs to be rebuild thats fine as long as the shafts not wore to the point like mine.
thanks guys

jeremy

The problem you described will not be caused by play in the throttle plate. That will cause a vac leak not excess fuel. If the needle will not fully close (controlled by the float) due to a sinking float, stuck float or dirt you will experience excess fuel situations. I would be looking at the fuel tank. The truck is 40 yrs old. It may have a problem with dirt & scale.

 

[71f250camper]

elge i understand what u are saying man. we adjusted the needles for air/fuel and there was no change. i think she is sucking too much air. it started this after i used cleaning solvent in the carb. pops thinks i cleaned it too well and made it suck more air than it should since its 40 years old. i would kit the old carb but the shaft play worries me. its alot of play. talked to some of the older mechanics at work and he says its bad not as bad as he has seen but bad enough that it could be a problem. only other thing he said was to drill the hole out and and shim it to make the shaft tighter. not sure if i would really want to do that i dont want to mess something up. at this point if it has a vac leak u wouldnt know since the miss fire is so bad the motor will shake the truck.

 

[elgemcdlf]

It really is pretty simple. All you need is spark, fuel & compression at the correct time. If you turned the carb upside down you could very well have a needle that is cocked in it's seat. Take a can of spray carb cleaner and start spraying at key areas. If there is a notable difference in how it runs that indicates a vac leak. Did you just put the carb in the parts cleaner tank or just brush it on the outside to clean up the way it looks? If you submerged it you may need to disassemble the carb as you may have cleaner hiding in places inside.

 

[Beach66Bum]

I just replaced my 2150 2 barrel Motorcraft carb because of a crap remanufactured rebuild. It was a bad core to start with, it had the worn shaft, and yes, when you do the vacuum test with carb cleaner, it raised the rpm's. After dismantling it, the float was also set wrong, among a lot of other things, like choke pull off, etc. Went to the wreckers and got a 2150 that was not ever tampered with, cleaned it, adjusted air/fuel, choke, fast idle cam, was good to go. Under 100 bucks, can't go wrong

 

[71f250camper]

i wanted to do the carb cleaner test dad said motor was too hot would have burned her up. and i brushed it ran solvent in the center and in the air tubes on the top i could have some hiding yet. dont want to take it apart since the gaskets would have to be replaced dont have the funds for that at the moment. with the shaft wear it could be just a waste of fund. at this point i think im going to redo the whole motor since the valve lifters are still hammering and not giving way. dont want to find out after i do all that work i have burnt valves and have to redo the heads as well just going to do them all at once. for what i have been told if i do the valve springs in the heads i will need to do the bottem end too so i will do it all. than i know what i got

 

[71f250camper]

ok guys have a few questions 1. have u guys heard of an electronic speedo that runs off the driveshaft or hubs?
2. Anyone know where they can get a good 352/360/390 and for how much

 

[Workin' Rig]

I believe Jc Whitney sells one that reads somehow off the driveshaft.

As for finding an FE i would begin in the junkyards and go from there....