Keep frying block heaters

[fatherdoug]

I am on my fourth block heater in less than two years. Truck is a '78 F-150 with a rebuilt 400 motor(stock). The block heater is in the 12 o'clock position on the right rear(passenger) soft plug, which is where the manufacturer says it should be. I thought the problem might be the outlet, so I replaced it. I fried another heater since the outlet was changed out.

Any ideas or experience. The heater works for three or four days and then dies.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Who makes the one you have?

 

[fatherdoug]

It's NAPA brand but it is made by Pyroil. I have tried both the Kats and the Pyroil. Do you know of another manufacturer that might be worth trying?
Thanks for the reply.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I get mine from Jegs ive got two of em one is about two years old and the other about a year never had a bit of trouble from em.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51120/10002/-1 I put a bead of sealant around the O ring just to make sure. not sure of the cord on yours unplugs like these do but that might be whats causing yours to not work.

 

[Mil1ion]

Put a freeze plug in it and install a circulating engine heater

Much better system

 

[smokey]

I totally agree with mil1ion. Never had much luck on the equipment with the freeze plug heaters. The one million posted have worked great.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Doug, is the element just opening?...or is it shorting to the block?

 

[fatherdoug]

Thanks guys. I have used one of those before, but they kinda clutter the engine compartment. They do work though.

Duncan, the last one I pulled out had no continuity across the pins for the plugin. I am getting 120 volts out the end of the cord where it attaches to the heater. What would cause it to short to the block, Sorry, I am not an electrician.

 

[fatherdoug]

Put a freeze plug in it and install a circulating engine heater

Much better system

Dennis, Is that one for sale?

 

[DNFXDLI]

Thanks guys. I have used one of those before, but they kinda clutter the engine compartment. They do work though.

Duncan, the last one I pulled out had no continuity across the pins for the plugin. I am getting 120 volts out the end of the cord where it attaches to the heater. What would cause it to short to the block, Sorry, I am not an electrician.

If it shorts to the block, it will normally trip the breaker or the GFI (if plugged into one)..if the insulating washers fail that can happen. If you are getting no continuity across the pins then the element has opened which is the most common failure of immersion type elements. The only things I can think of that will really cause that kind of failure are manufacturing defect(s) or the element being exposed to no liquid which can cause an overheat situation.
If you are contemplating a circulation heater and use the truck away from a 120V source, you might want to consider an Espar or Webasto gasoline heater.

 

[fatherdoug]

Thanks, Duncan. That helps. I am not sure of the lack of coolant, unless that part of the block is being starved. When I pulled the old block heater out, I got a lot of antifreeze with it. The GFI hasn't been tripping, either.

I don't plan on being away from a 120 volt power source. They have outlets at the parking lot at work, also.

 

[DNFXDLI]

I'd be inclined to think it is just bad luck then.

 

[fatherdoug]

Again? DAMN!

 

[DNFXDLI]

Isn't the quality of damn near everything these days great????

 

[Austin]

Quite honestly, every time I see this thread I read: "Deep frying block heaters".

 

[fatherdoug]

Quite honestly, every time I see this thread I read: "Deep frying block heaters".

I am about to do just that!

 

[Austin]

I am about to do just that!

Plenty of protein! Maybe some fiber, too

 

[Mil1ion]

I do have one for sale.,

These heaters use far less electrical power than the elements and that allows for an in-car heater to be plugged into the same cord.

90 minutes in time run off outdoor timer and you have the best of all worlds

 

[DNFXDLI]

Careful with that assumption on the same cord....most interior heaters are 1000W...so, that plus 550W with that circulator is over the 1440W which is available for a continuous load on a 15A circuit...it may work for a while, but will cause the breaker to warm up and quite possibly trip. And I know you are a stickler for details Dennis...standard immersion block heaters range from 600 to 1200 watts, so in some cases the draw is nearly the same as the circulator types.