Generation 8-9 3G Alternator Swap

[Chrono558]

I remember a few topics were people had ask to tell the difference between 95A and 130A 3G alternators be it side mount style or 12 and 6 mount style. When I put my 130A large case on my truck I took side by side pictures and more research brought this to my attention.

A 130A 3G will have 2 big holes in the "Y" section on the front case were as the 95A version will have 4 smaller holes in the "Y". Now the 130A can come in either small or large case styles but from speaking with several local alternator and starter rebuilder shops the small case can only support a 130a rectifier at max were as the large case can go up to 200a.

Hope this clears up some confusion on which amp alternator you have (especially when it comes to us who use a side mount style and not the 12/6 mount style.) I also have good pictures and directions on how to install a 130a side mount alternator with the 2 gauge charge cable and how to eliminate the 8 gauge cable correctly if anybody is interested.

-Chrono.

 

[Chrono558]

I'll describe this best as I can. This really only applies for engines that have a side mount style alternator but 12/6 mounts are similar (just have to buy a harness).

First thing of course is to unhook the battery cables. Second remove the serpentine belt and then the charge cable and wiring harness from your old alternator and remove the alternator (3 13mm bolts). With the old alternator out, turn your attention to removing the old charge cable harness. Remove the nut (on the right in the picture) from the starter solenoid on the fender and there are 2 wires that have been spliced together that the charge cable runs into.

With that done look for a connector behind the battery tray that looks like this.

Unhook that and snake the whole charge cable assembly out of the truck. With the shielding off you'll end up with something like this.

8g charge cable vs 2g charge cable.

Now part of the issue with the old charge cable is the yellow wire that runs from the alternator to the starter solenoid needs to be cut and a circle terminal be added to the cut section like so.

Then run it up to the charge stud like so. You will more than likely need to trim part of the plastic retainer off in order to get the new charge cable lug to fit squarely on it.

Now what I did was go out and buy some new cable shielding like what was originally on there and run it over the charge cable and the green wire. You can route the new charge cable in the same location that the old one was routed. Once that's done go ahead and find a spot to mount your fuse holder that comes with the charge cable. I put mine here on the wheel well.

You can put it up on the fender, just make sure the hood won't hit it when it comes down or you'll leave a nice arc mark on the spring and blow your 175amp fuse at the same time . With that done put your belt back on and hook your battery back up. If all goes well the truck will start without problem and that battery gauge in the dash should show a good charge.


Special thanks from fordfuelinjection and rjminjection for the tech details, charge cable and being a good site for getting parts from. Hope this helps people who are working on a side-mount upgrade.