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Cylinder issues

Hello everybody!

I am starting to get stuck with my ideas, and I has hoping someone might have an answer for me or help me with some diagnostics. I will tell you the issue I had, and I will tell you what I have done so far to fix the issue and what has cropped up since.

So here we go;
To start, the problem I was having with my truck was that when I was driving down the highway it would feel like a huge gust of wind was hitting the front of the truck slowing it down and then when the sensation was peaked the RPMs would fluctuate (jump up about 300-400 more)and then back to where it should be till the next time it would happen and it was happening only when I was at highway speeds with intervals being sporadic but often.

So what I had done at that point to try to fix the issue was
-Made sure I was getting a good fuel flow to carb.
-New timing chain and gears.
-New spark plugs (a cooler type plug).
-Electronic ignition.
-Made sure timing was good.
-Changed the transmission oil and filter.

Other things that were done too during the fix but for other reasons were
-The rear main seal.
-2 Frost plugs.
-The rear pinion seal.


This cleared up the issue of that wind gust feeling issue. Now I have cylinder 3 that does not seem to work. The engine wants to stall while in gear at a stop light or sign and in gear. When in park or neutral idling, it runs rough.

This is what I have tried to fix that with no luck yet.

-Made sure I had the firing order on the cap correct (lol it could happen)
-Swapped out the plug.
-Checked gapping on plugs.
-Changed wires.
-Changed rotor.
-Changed cap.
-Changed the vacuum lines.
-Sprayed WD40 around the 2bbl carb spacer to see if it would raise the RPMs but I could not detect any change (looking for a vacuum leak)

SO with all that said (I know it was an ear full or I guess more so an eye full lol) does anyone have any ideas of what I could do or try to help fix my engine in my truck.

I have the high energy coil that matches the ignition on order and should be in by the end of next week

If I ve left any important info out please ask and I will put it in and if I don't respond right away its because I will be in the middle of moving in the next few days so hang tight and I will be back online shortly.

The truck is a stock 1973 ford f100 with the 360ci, 2bbl carb.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
9,461
301
waynesville,mo.
Good place to start with that one would be a compression check.
 
Ok thanks I will look into it over the next couple of weeks when I get a few spare moments.

I will post the results when I am all done
 
Ok so I have the results of the compression testing.

I did 1 dry the first day and found that I had one cylinder that was lower than the rest but it was not the cylinder that I thought it would have been. The lowest reading on day 1 was 110 and then the highest was 127 and the rest of the cylinder numbers being between 120-124.

So I did a cylinder steaming (an old trick that I was taught) and it seemed to be working better. I ran out of time soI had to hold off till another day.

The second time I had all day to mess around with the truck so. I started with my compression testing again the first testing was dry and all the numbers were more even with the lowest being 119 and the highest being 130. The wet Compression test I did as I went along ended up giving me readings of about 22 psi more than the dry per cylinder. While I was doing the testing I noticed that there was an orange line on the balancer that had been added at some point by someone. I used a wire brush to remove all the rust and that line, painted the balancer and darkened the factory lines so I can make sure to set the timing as it should be. The orange line was at 19 deg BTDC and the truck from factory should have been at 6 LOL. Well now with some fine tuning and adjustments I am at 10 Deg BTDC as at 6 I was getting some pinging and at 8 Deg when cold it was hard to start. So this is where I am at right now. The truck no longer wants to stall out (Thank GOD) Still I think it could be better but that I believe is the fault of the oil leak coming out of either the intake manifold gasket or the head gasket.
I just cant see exactly where its coming from without tearing it apart. I still seem to be having the issue with cylinder #3 not warming up like the rest of them. I am still puzzled by it but for now I can at least drive it.

Any ideas from the new info?
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
If you have decent compression and spark then the only thing left would be fuel to that cylinder, I suppose it is possible to have a weak valve spring, bent pushrod or something causing your concern. You may want to pull the valve cover off and look to make sure all is well under there and the valves are opening. As for the oil leak I would be guessing the intake in leaking.
 

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