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battery Isolators

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
im thinking bout putting a 2nd battery in both trucks and a battery isolator to connect them.. i think someone else did this here but i cant remember... someone wanna give me a quick rundown on how this is done and works?
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
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The Great White North
An isolator uses 2 diodes so that the primary battery doesn't get drawn down when the auxillary battery is being used. There is an issue with isolators as the forward voltage drop of the diode means that the battery does not see the full charge voltage. In many cases, you are better off using a continuous duty solenoid. Cole-Hersee makes a nice 225A unit.
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
An isolator uses 2 diodes so that the primary battery doesn't get drawn down when the auxillary battery is being used. There is an issue with isolators as the forward voltage drop of the diode means that the battery does not see the full charge voltage. In many cases, you are better off using a continuous duty solenoid. Cole-Hersee makes a nice 225A unit.

to be honest i didnt understand any of that.... i dont understand electrical real well.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
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A diode by it's nature is a one way valve....it will let electricity flow one way but not another...kind of like a plumbing check valve....but when electricity is flowing the one way that it lets it (the diode) there is a restriction (forward voltage drop) that doesn't allow the battery to receive for full charge voltage.
A solenoid (like your starter solenoid) is a high current switch that you can wire in so that when your vehicle is running, both batteries get full charge voltage, but when the engine isn't running the solenoid drops out and leaves your auxillary battery effectively isolated from your starting battery.
Edit...what is the purpose of the second battery?
 

Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
9,037
287
San Antonio, Texas
Why do you need to isolate the second battery?
Thats something i have never understood?
Wire em up like a diesel... Both batteries are used for everything...
 

Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
9,037
287
San Antonio, Texas
Is there a problem with doing it like that?
My mind is getting into a fuzzy area, you would wire them in parellel to keep the 12v correct?
Or is it series?

Been so long since i have had to do any REAL electrical thinking....
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,464
384
La Vergne, TN
Edit...what is the purpose of the second battery?

well in they Flareside i have a loud system and the alternator has trouble charging at night when idleing in drive sometimes when the heat is on and lights are on and system is up.. well ann's is even worse. hers has trouble charging anytime just her headlights are on when idleing in drive.
and hers will soon have a system also in it after i get her a new alternator.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
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Sounds like you could use a higher output alternator

Yup, batters's wont solve your problems there chris...
Go for a HO alt...

x3. Adding a second battery is not the answer.

Go with the big *** alternator.

At idle, any alternator is gonna have issue keeping up with a connected load.
As soon as you get some rpm's on it, no problem. You can connect as many batteries as you want in parallel but once you discharge them...you have no starting battery...hence the need for isolation.
Your starting battery is just that...a starting battery...they are not designed to be constantly discharged like a stereo running at a bush party.
For that you would need a deep cycle battery with some form of an isolator.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
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Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
9,037
287
San Antonio, Texas
You do bring a good point duncan...

If the battery is to be used in a manner as described by duncan, then the isolater is a good idea....

Chris if im playing a song heavy with bass and my lights start to flicker, i will give it a little gas, i THINK most alts start putting out the real voltage at 1200 rpm's so its not much above idle...
Now if your having surging issues while crusing then it seems that a HO alt is a good STARTING point.
Big 3 upgrade might be something to look into as well..
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
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The Great White North
Don is right about the rpm's.
This is where a capacitor can help in your audio system. A cap is NOT designed to be a substitute for a poor power supply for your stereo and won't help with the wiper/heater issue at low rpm's.
Looking at the car stereo that you have got, a cap really wouldn't be required as the amp is really nowhere near large enough to warrant it.
One further note...as well as for starting and alt. field supply...your car battery is also there to supplement the alternator for running loads like your lights, heater, wipers etc at rpm's where your alternator can't supply enough current.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
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The Great White North
One other point...the alternator is typically doing at least twice the rpm that the crank is doing.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
49,083
1,089
The Great White North

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