Amsoil or Royal Purple?

[MikeStoke]

What do you all think? I have heard good things about both.

Mike

 

[Skandocious]

Both a ripoff.

Amsoil 'Universal' ATF made my transmission develop nasty noises and slippage. Switched back to Valvoline dino ATF and all problems went away.

That's the last time I'll spend so much on fluids. Snake oil if you ask me.

 

[Brian_B]

I tried Amsoil Oil once. Was a waste of money IMHO. I saw no damage, but no results that they claim either.

Never been around Royal purple, but I would imagine that Mobil 1 would be a lot cheaper and you can get it in wal-mart in gallon containers.

 

[blackhat620]

Mike,

With a little more information we should be able to point you in a good direction.

What type of conditions is your truck operated in?

Does your truck see extreme temperatures?

Why do you want to use synthetic oil?

What led you to narrow your choice to A-oil or Royal Purple?

 

[MikeStoke]

Pretty much normal conditions. I tow a 18 ft bass boat about 200 miles a week. The tempatures here in missouri are 85-100 in the summer and 0-30 in the winter. I heard that syn. oil reduces friction more than conventional and less oil changes. My brother-n-law is a A-oil dealer so he preaches by it and I have been doing research on royal purple and just didnt know if it was worth it or not . Or if it is, which one is best.

Mike

 

[blackhat620]

Mike,

Your truck is operated in pretty normal conditions with light loads. Under these conditions there is little to no benefit running synthetic oil.

A synthetic motor oil has two benefits over a dino oil; the ability to withstand greater temperature extremes and extended oil change interval.

Synthetic oil temperature benefits, do not benefit most vehicles since they are not operated in exteme temperature conditions. If a vehicle is routinely operated at 0F and below (think Alaska) then synthetic oil temperature stability is needed. In addition you do not operate in exteme heat environments.

As far as extend OCI, you will not attain it with a 6.0 PSD. The 6.0 PSD, unlike most other diesel engines, is extremely hard on engine oil do to shearing caused by the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) that is used to supply high pressure oil to the oil fired fuel injectors. The recommneded OCI on the 6.0 is 5 - 7.5K. It is rare for anyone running a 6.0 to get much beyond 7.5k before the oil needs to be changed. To date the best performing engine oils in the 6.0 for exteded OCI are Delvac1 and Schaeffer 9000 combined with bypass oil filtration and they only reach 10-12k. Problem is that when you factor in the price increase (3-4x higher) of synthetic motor oil over dino the numbers do not work with the 6.0.

To properly run extended OCI in any engine you must use a premium oil, bypass filtration and perform routine UOA. UOA costs approx. $30-35 per test.

Yes synthetic oils provide lower friction levels, but the numbers are negligible in normal automotive applications. You would be hard pressed to see a 0.5-1 mpg increase using synthetic over dino.

As far as Amsoil & Royal Purple, i would not use Amsoil to lube a bike chain if the oil was given to me for free. Amsoil does not have a "legitimately" API or ACEA CJ-4 HDEO and only 1 CI-4+ and that is the semi-synthetic PCO 15W-40. Don't not believe all of Amsoil's hype, as it is just that hype. Amsoil contrary to there assertion was not the first producer or provider of synthetic motor oils for automobiles. Chevron started it in the 60's and then were followed by NEO, All-proof (now Redline), then Amsoil was forth (they were selling repackaged Hatco synthetic oil btw), followed closely by Mobil1. Amsoils claim to being first with a synthetic motor oil is akin to Al Gore inventing the internet.

Now i do not believe an automobile will seize up and die from running Amsoil, i just am not comfortable doing business with a company that falsely hypes its products and bends the truth to get money out of your wallet.

I have not run Royal Purple, they get good reviews on there gear oils, but i think there are better synthetic engine oils out there. In the diesel engine market Delvac1 & Rotella Synthetic control 98% of the fleet market for synthetic oil.

I ran Redline in my race cars with excellent results but race cars are a special application and we rebuilt the motors between passes.

Now one benefit of synthetic lubricants in your truck would be in the front axle and transfercase. The rear axle uses synthetic from the factory as does the Torqshift transmission.

Just an FYI only use Motorcraft Mercon SP transmissin fluid in the Torqshift, contrary to some manufactures claims no one else makes a legitimately certified replacement oil for the Torqshift. I am a strong believer in synthetic lubricants used in the axles, transfercase and transmission do to the small quanity of oil in these components and the long drain intervals.

Personally if i were you i would stick with a quality API CJ-4 15W-40 dino oil brand of your choice, and if you want to run synthetic then either use Rotella Synthetic or the more expensive Delvac 1, 5W-40. Most of the new CJ-4 dino oils are made with Group II+ & III base stocks. Rotella Synthetic is made with Group III and Delvac uses Group IV PAO base stocks.

Also on a side note, the FMC warranty on the PSD is 100k, if you do not perform documented OCI of no more than 7500 miles using "legitimately" API certified oil of the proper viscosity and suffer an engine problem FMC may deny the warranty claim (I am not saying this is right or wrong on FMC part) as FMC is scrutinizing warranty repairs very closely before giving approval. Caveat emptor.

Thank you for your service to our country.

 

[blackhat620]

Mike,

Here are some links to some good articles on engine oils:
www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=472

www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=493&relatedbookgroup=OilAnalysis

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=533&relatedbookgroup=Which group?

Also you can go to the Bitog website for a wealth of information
www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

 

[blackhat620]

Here are some links to Chevron tech articles
www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/innovation.aspx

www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/isodewax.aspx

www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/faq_main.aspx

www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/papers.aspx

 

[Skandocious]

Mike,

Your truck is operated in pretty normal conditions with light loads. Under these conditions there is little to no benefit running synthetic oil.

A synthetic motor oil has two benefits over a dino oil; the ability to withstand greater temperature extremes and extended oil change interval.

Synthetic oil temperature benefits, do not benefit most vehicles since they are not operated in exteme temperature conditions. If a vehicle is routinely operated at 0F and below (think Alaska) then synthetic oil temperature stability is needed. In addition you do not operate in exteme heat environments.

As far as extend OCI, you will not attain it with a 6.0 PSD. The 6.0 PSD, unlike most other diesel engines, is extremely hard on engine oil do to shearing caused by the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) that is used to supply high pressure oil to the oil fired fuel injectors. The recommneded OCI on the 6.0 is 5 - 7.5K. It is rare for anyone running a 6.0 to get much beyond 7.5k before the oil needs to be changed. To date the best performing engine oils in the 6.0 for exteded OCI are Delvac1 and Schaeffer 9000 combined with bypass oil filtration and they only reach 10-12k. Problem is that when you factor in the price increase (3-4x higher) of synthetic motor oil over dino the numbers do not work with the 6.0.

To properly run extended OCI in any engine you must use a premium oil, bypass filtration and perform routine UOA. UOA costs approx. $30-35 per test.

Yes synthetic oils provide lower friction levels, but the numbers are negligible in normal automotive applications. You would be hard pressed to see a 0.5-1 mpg increase using synthetic over dino.

As far as Amsoil & Royal Purple, i would not use Amsoil to lube a bike chain if the oil was given to me for free. Amsoil does not have a "legitimately" API or ACEA CJ-4 HDEO and only 1 CI-4+ and that is the semi-synthetic PCO 15W-40. Don't not believe all of Amsoil's hype, as it is just that hype. Amsoil contrary to there assertion was not the first producer or provider of synthetic motor oils for automobiles. Chevron started it in the 60's and then were followed by NEO, All-proof (now Redline), then Amsoil was forth (they were selling repackaged Hatco synthetic oil btw), followed closely by Mobil1. Amsoils claim to being first with a synthetic motor oil is akin to Al Gore inventing the internet.

Now i do not believe an automobile will seize up and die from running Amsoil, i just am not comfortable doing business with a company that falsely hypes its products and bends the truth to get money out of your wallet.

I have not run Royal Purple, they get good reviews on there gear oils, but i think there are better synthetic engine oils out there. In the diesel engine market Delvac1 & Rotella Synthetic control 98% of the fleet market for synthetic oil.

I ran Redline in my race cars with excellent results but race cars are a special application and we rebuilt the motors between passes.

Now one benefit of synthetic lubricants in your truck would be in the front axle and transfercase. The rear axle uses synthetic from the factory as does the Torqshift transmission.

Just an FYI only use Motorcraft Mercon SP transmissin fluid in the Torqshift, contrary to some manufactures claims no one else makes a legitimately certified replacement oil for the Torqshift. I am a strong believer in synthetic lubricants used in the axles, transfercase and transmission do to the small quanity of oil in these components and the long drain intervals.

Personally if i were you i would stick with a quality API CJ-4 15W-40 dino oil brand of your choice, and if you want to run synthetic then either use Rotella Synthetic or the more expensive Delvac 1, 5W-40.
Most of the new CJ-4 dino oils are made with Group II+ & III base stocks. Rotella Synthetic is made with Group III and Delvac uses Group IV PAO base stocks.

Thank you for your service to our country.

Great post! Reps for that one.

 

[Mr. Stroker]

Rotella T. Best thing for the powerstrokes, so ive heard. We have used it since we bought the truck and love it. Not as expensive as amsoil. My boss wants me to change his oil in the 6.0 he has and he uses amsoil. Over 100 dollars for an oil change.... When you can go to TSC and get a 2 gallon jug for 26 bucks. Hmmmm

 

[6L PWR]

Mike, I tried Amsoil in mine and it wasn't too good. It didn't last near as long as good old Rotella-T before I was having issues starting and some sputtering while driving. Changed back to Rotella-T and everything was fine. I'm currently running Mobil 1 for Turbo Diesel Trucks. I think it's a semi-synthetic. High price stuff, but I tend to push mine just a little bit. I also have a by-pass oil filter on my truck.

I would never touch that Amsoil again myself, but that's just what I noticed in my truck.

 

[Blue Goose]

Show him the pictures of an Amsoil lubed engine, Todd...

 

[surewhynot]

Here's a pic of the rod-

 

[MikeStoke]

Thanks for the replies, I think you have convinced me to stick with what i am using. Mike

 

[Skandocious]

Here's a pic of the rod-

Hahahahhahahahah that one made me laugh out loud. Reps for that.. As much as I hate to do it

 

[6L PWR]

Damn Tony, it won't let me rep you but THAT was a good one!!

 

[Beachbumcook]

Do not use Royal Purple or Amsoil... they are overpriced and perform no better.

Motor Oil - Rotella-Syn 5W-40
(Great synthetic oil at a great cost - and is now CJ4 rated)

Tranny Oil - Ford Mercon SP
(Ford does not license their Mercon SP Tranny Fluid and it is synthetic fluid out of the bottle - pricy... but good stuff!!!)

Oil Filters: - Racor or Motorcraft
(Framm is also made by Racor)

Air Filters - Motorcraft or Donnalson
(Blue synthetic media - not white/cellulose media also made by Donnalson)

Air in Tires - Nitrogen
(I get free rotate, balance and Nitrogen at COSTCO - every 5,000 miles... regular free air works too!!!)

Window washer fluid - The cheap blue stuff
(Squirt like I do and the cheap stuff is good - get freeze protection for the winter!!!)

Beer - Miller Lite, Red Strip or Rolling Rock
(Bud Light will work in a pinch!!!)

With 127,600 miles on my '03 Excursion all is well with my 6.0L motor!!!!!

 

[Skandocious]

Hey Beach--- what's the advantage of running nitrogen in the tires?

 

[CaFordDude]

I think I remember hearing it has to do with molecule/particule size. Nitrogen is bigger then regular air making for slower "natural leakage"


http://www.bankrate.com/cnn/news/ca...g_dollars_tires_nitrogen_a1.asp?prodtype=auto
http://www.koaa.com/aaaa_top_stories/x1359267656/Nitrogen-versus-air-in-tires
http://blogs.consumerreports.org/cars/2007/10/tires-nitrogen-.html

 

[Skandocious]

Ahh yes that rings a bell.