How to go from this:
To this:
It’s a direct swap that will takes about 30 minutes and costs about $40 or $50.
Step 1: Get a cluster with a tachometer.
You will need the entire cluster. eBay or the junkyard is a good source. $50 shipped is a pretty common price in my area. Make sure you get one from THE SAME YEAR, or at least a compatible one. I’m pretty sure 1992/1993 are interchangeable, 1994/1195 are interchangeable, and 1996 is on its own (1997 F250 & F350 work with 1996). If you sell your old one for $20, the whole project ends up costing only $30 or less.
Any cluster works with any engine. The wiring is already there. Gas/Diesel are not interchangeable. Automatic/manual does not matter either – they can be swapped.
If your run into someone that says it will work in a 92-96 truck, ask them for the numbers off the back. Here’s what they are looking at:
They’ll start with F2TF, or something like that – the 2 represents a 1992.
Step 2: Remove the black dash surround.
Pop out these 2 panels. Be gentle and pry them out from the center with a flathead screwdriver.
Unscrew the screws behind them. I used a T-20 hex head on these. I’ve previously used sockets and they worked fine.
Next, remove the headlight switch. There is a small tab holding the switch on the actual post. Put a small object in the slit in the knob. Pull out on the knob while you push against the tab that rests on the inner post. (You can pull pretty hard. It will make more sense if you actually see it out)
You should now be able to wiggle the black dash surround loose. When I had an automatic, I had to turn the key to “ON” and drop the gear shift into “L” to get this piece out. With it part-way out, you’ll need to unclip your fuel tank selector. My mount was broken, but if yours wasn’t, before the whole piece came out, you’d need to undo this clip:
Step 3: Get your old cluster out
Just undo the 4 screws at the top-right and bottom-right on each side and pull the cluster out in one piece. At some point around this step, I switched to a T-15 hex head.
The first time I did this, I had the hardest time getting it out, but all it took was new eyes coming along to see that the bottom should come out first. If you have a manual, this is easy. If you have an automatic, you won’t get very far away from the column as your shift indicator stays connected to the truck. You’ll need to undo the 3 plugs in the back to get the cluster out. From what I’ve seen, you cannot physically swap the left/right plugs, so don’t worry about getting them mixed up.
Step 4: Disassemble both clusters.
There’s 7 or so screws holding the clear glass on, then the inner black piece.
Step 5: Put your “new” one together.
You’ll want to use ALL the parts from the cluster you bought except the center speedometer section that stores the mileage. Each black “panel” pops out from outside to inside. Just pop them out one by one. Take your speedometer out of the old one, and drop it in a new one. Every cluster I’ve seen has needed heavy amounts of Windex at this step (be careful with the needles). It’s also not a bad idea to think about replacing all the bulbs in the cluster while it’s out. I don’t have the part number, but I think I got all the bulbs for about $5.
Step 6: Reassemble.
Do it all backwards…it’s not hard. Don’t forget to plug in the 3 plugs on the back of the cluster and the fuel tank switch (easily forgotten).
Step 7: Enjoy
Post any corrections, suggestions, extra pictures, or tips below!
fordtruckfanatics.com
To this:
It’s a direct swap that will takes about 30 minutes and costs about $40 or $50.
Step 1: Get a cluster with a tachometer.
You will need the entire cluster. eBay or the junkyard is a good source. $50 shipped is a pretty common price in my area. Make sure you get one from THE SAME YEAR, or at least a compatible one. I’m pretty sure 1992/1993 are interchangeable, 1994/1195 are interchangeable, and 1996 is on its own (1997 F250 & F350 work with 1996). If you sell your old one for $20, the whole project ends up costing only $30 or less.
Any cluster works with any engine. The wiring is already there. Gas/Diesel are not interchangeable. Automatic/manual does not matter either – they can be swapped.
If your run into someone that says it will work in a 92-96 truck, ask them for the numbers off the back. Here’s what they are looking at:
They’ll start with F2TF, or something like that – the 2 represents a 1992.
Step 2: Remove the black dash surround.
Pop out these 2 panels. Be gentle and pry them out from the center with a flathead screwdriver.
Unscrew the screws behind them. I used a T-20 hex head on these. I’ve previously used sockets and they worked fine.
Next, remove the headlight switch. There is a small tab holding the switch on the actual post. Put a small object in the slit in the knob. Pull out on the knob while you push against the tab that rests on the inner post. (You can pull pretty hard. It will make more sense if you actually see it out)
You should now be able to wiggle the black dash surround loose. When I had an automatic, I had to turn the key to “ON” and drop the gear shift into “L” to get this piece out. With it part-way out, you’ll need to unclip your fuel tank selector. My mount was broken, but if yours wasn’t, before the whole piece came out, you’d need to undo this clip:
Step 3: Get your old cluster out
Just undo the 4 screws at the top-right and bottom-right on each side and pull the cluster out in one piece. At some point around this step, I switched to a T-15 hex head.
The first time I did this, I had the hardest time getting it out, but all it took was new eyes coming along to see that the bottom should come out first. If you have a manual, this is easy. If you have an automatic, you won’t get very far away from the column as your shift indicator stays connected to the truck. You’ll need to undo the 3 plugs in the back to get the cluster out. From what I’ve seen, you cannot physically swap the left/right plugs, so don’t worry about getting them mixed up.
Step 4: Disassemble both clusters.
There’s 7 or so screws holding the clear glass on, then the inner black piece.
Step 5: Put your “new” one together.
You’ll want to use ALL the parts from the cluster you bought except the center speedometer section that stores the mileage. Each black “panel” pops out from outside to inside. Just pop them out one by one. Take your speedometer out of the old one, and drop it in a new one. Every cluster I’ve seen has needed heavy amounts of Windex at this step (be careful with the needles). It’s also not a bad idea to think about replacing all the bulbs in the cluster while it’s out. I don’t have the part number, but I think I got all the bulbs for about $5.
Step 6: Reassemble.
Do it all backwards…it’s not hard. Don’t forget to plug in the 3 plugs on the back of the cluster and the fuel tank switch (easily forgotten).
Step 7: Enjoy
Post any corrections, suggestions, extra pictures, or tips below!
fordtruckfanatics.com
