A new 6.0 owner needs advice...

[dtolan]

When I went looking for a truck, the one thing I didn't really want was a Ford, and worse than that a 6.0 Ford. I've heard every horror story possible, but the truck I wanted ended up being a Ford, and the one I found for the right price (a VERY right price) was a 6.0. Myself, always being up for a challenge, decided that I could take this sick litre Ford and keep it alive (after all, I did keep a 6.5 Chevy going to 375K!). I've had the truck, a 2006 F250 crew cab short bed with 120k, for about a month and have already driven it about 4500 miles. I have visibly gone over the engine pretty well, and both heads are wet at the mating surface on the rear cylinder on each bank. I've also got antifreeze around the cap of the degass bottle. I've heard enough to know that I need studs and gaskets. The last guy never told me, but I found an SCT tuner op manual stuffed under the seat, so it's been modified. I intend to do the head gaskets cab off in my shop this summer when I can live without the truck for a week or so, but I'm wondering what else would be a wise investment to keep this engine alive as long as possible. I don't trade pickup trucks often, I'm a midwest farmer and I'll run this thing until it's either wrecked or there's not enough good pieces left to fix. My last two made it to almost 400K. I have made my mind up to take this one that far as well. That said, any knowlegable recommendations on long term fixes to 6.0 problems, especially while I have the cab and front clip off, would be greatly appreciated. Don't forget, I'm new to the 6.0 and haven't heard all the little details that go with this engine. From what I know already and can see, the emission controls are what is making this a less than reliable engine for Ford. Navistar has had excellent luck with the engine. So I have faith that I can run this truck into it's grave with a little bit of help. Any input would be welcomed and appreciated.

 

[5.0Flareside]

really good diesel, coolant filter, regular oil changes, reg fuel filter changes and studs... thats all ive ever heard to keep a 6.0 going if you've had any issues.

 

[blacksnapon]

First off, welcome to the site! A coolant filter is the best thing to get for a 6.0. good fuel and proper maintenance are a must. Studs, in my opinion aren't necessary for everyday use. I've posted a pictoral step by step for headgasket replacement with cab removal in the 6.0 forum if that will help.

 

[dtolan]

Thanks, blacksnapon, I appreciate the welcome. What kind of information do you have on a coolant filter? I'm a service manager at a Case IH Agriculture dealer, so I can come up with a filter base and make lines if necessary, but if there is a kit available for a neat and clean install, I'd rather do that. Also, more info on my situation: This truck will NOT see everyday use. It will be pulled hard for probably 60% of it's miles. Typically I will pull 1300 gallons of water in the spring and summer quite often, and in the fall I will pull two grain wagons with about 80,000 pounds of corn. So it will not have an easy life. That said, I wonder about the cold starting ability of this engine. We've had cold weather here for April in central Illinois, but I think this thing should start without farting and stumbling at 35- 40 degrees. Is this related to my head gasket issue, or is it another issue?

 

[blacksnapon]

Thanks, blacksnapon, I appreciate the welcome. What kind of information do you have on a coolant filter? I'm a service manager at a Case IH Agriculture dealer, so I can come up with a filter base and make lines if necessary, but if there is a kit available for a neat and clean install, I'd rather do that. Also, more info on my situation: This truck will NOT see everyday use. It will be pulled hard for probably 60% of it's miles. Typically I will pull 1300 gallons of water in the spring and summer quite often, and in the fall I will pull two grain wagons with about 80,000 pounds of corn. So it will not have an easy life. That said, I wonder about the cold starting ability of this engine. We've had cold weather here for April in central Illinois, but I think this thing should start without farting and stumbling at 35- 40 degrees. Is this related to my head gasket issue, or is it another issue?

"Dieselsite" has a nice kit. Ask bluegoose (administrator of this site) about his. The hard start when cold can be addressed with a reflash of the computer. Downside of the flash, you HAVE TO KEEP STRONG BATTERIES. The 6.0 doesn't like extended downtime. If you must leave it for extended lengths, make sure you park it hot!

 

[DNFXDLI]

I would also invest in a $25 battery tender junior...I use them on everything I own that tends to sit more than a week without running.

 

[dtolan]

I'm heading to the local ford dealer in the morning for a reflash. Hopefully that gets the cold start issue solved. I've been around some other 6.0's in the last week, and they all run ALOT quieter than mine. Mine sounds like a 7.3 compared to theirs. Is this because of the SCT tuner program? The reflash should wipe that out if so, right? Also, is the EGR delete worth doing?

 

[blacksnapon]

I'm heading to the local ford dealer in the morning for a reflash. Hopefully that gets the cold start issue solved. I've been around some other 6.0's in the last week, and they all run ALOT quieter than mine. Mine sounds like a 7.3 compared to theirs. Is this because of the SCT tuner program? The reflash should wipe that out if so, right? Also, is the EGR delete worth doing?

Any problems with the egr are symptoms not causes. The delete in my opinion is unnecessary.

 

[CloudyBright]

Any problems with the egr are symptoms not causes. The delete in my opinion is unnecessary.

I'm in the same spot as dtolan - looking to avoid problems before they occur.

The EGR delete seems to be one kit recommended by many at other sites.
Why do you disagree and how long can an EGR valve be expected to perform without trouble?

 

[blacksnapon]

I'm in the same spot as dtolan - looking to avoid problems before they occur.

The EGR delete seems to be one kit recommended by many at other sites.
Why do you disagree and how long can an EGR valve be expected to perform without trouble?

Most generally, a failed egr is a symptom, not the problem. Delete the egr, you still have the root problem, plus other issues that develop from the delete.

 

[Blue Goose]

I have over 76,000 miles on my '05 6.0 and the factory original EGR valve has never been touched.

 

[mrxlh]

Change the oil and filter every 5k. While its never been proven, and may have been addressed by a formulation change in the oil or add pack itself, there was issues with injector stiction, common denominator was Rotella 15W40, and Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40.

 

[mrxlh]

Casting sand and flash is why the coolant filter is recommended. If you would only see what has come out of several peoples first 3 filters, your jaw would drop.

 

[mrxlh]

A good fuel addative is the only way to ensure that you are getting the minimum required cetane for the 6.0. Powerservice and Stanadyne are the 2 most common favorites. I ran (powerservice) gray in my 05 every tank.